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I was just wondering if people are changing out the guide rod and spring on their XDM's like I see people do with their Glocks? I do not own an XDM yet, so I was just curious.
 

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Those who are free with money, change them, others promote them to get money, and others still, do nothing to their gun.

Why, would be my question ;)
 

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I was wondering as well if there was any benefit in doing so.
Not specific to any particular firearm, but a change in guide rod weight helps some deal with recoil ... The spring should not deviate much from factory, unless you are reloading and tailoring ammo for competition, etcetera.

IMO,
It's a waste of money for most people, but a bragging right, for those who modify their firearms, and don't mind saying they spent X amount of money to get what they want.

Then again,
My opinion has caused people to think I hate them ... LOL
 

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I change springs in my XDm40 depending on the loads being used. Factory spring with factory rds (almost never happens) and 16 lb spring with my USPSA and IDPA loads. When I run the 9mm barrel in it I use a 14 lb spring. Definitely helps with recoil; quicker sight return to target and makes the gun run pretty flat. Not much money involved and in my case well worth it.
 

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I filled mine with lead first. I had lead to spare, so it cost me nothing. I liked what it did to tame the recoil for followup shots. I immediately noticed a difference with that extra 1.5 ozs of weight under the muzzle.

I also shoot mine in competition, and a lead filled guide rod is not legal in the division I shoot. So I ordered a solid guide rod. I'm pretty cheap so I just picked up the 20$ stainless steel guide rod. Worth every penny to me. The stainless guide rod only adds 1.1 ozs but it still helps handle the recoil allowing for faster followup shots and more accurately placed "controlled pairs."
 

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I filled mine with lead first. I had lead to spare, so it cost me nothing. I liked what it did to tame the recoil for followup shots. I immediately noticed a difference with that extra 1.5 ozs of weight under the muzzle.
I'm curious about how you did this. I'm currently casting lead boolits for reloading so I may give this a try.

Thanks.
 

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I swapped out the guide rod for a stainless steel one in my G19. It is 300% heavier and after shooting it, the "perceived" recoil is reduced but it might just be in my mind as I think it's supposed to be less. Stock spring btw.
 

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I swapped out the guide rod for a stainless steel one in my G19. It is 300% heavier and after shooting it, the "perceived" recoil is reduced but it might just be in my mind as I think it's supposed to be less. Stock spring btw.
Thanks. I'll order the Don's Guide Rod in SS. 300% increase in weight would be a big help.
 

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Thanks. I'll order the Don's Guide Rod in SS. 300% increase in weight would be a big help.
Try a search at GT if you have a Glock. Some folks use different strength springs depending on their need obviously.
 

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I filled mine with lead first. I had lead to spare, so it cost me nothing. I liked what it did to tame the recoil for followup shots. I immediately noticed a difference with that extra 1.5 ozs of weight under the muzzle.

I also shoot mine in competition, and a lead filled guide rod is not legal in the division I shoot. So I ordered a solid guide rod. I'm pretty cheap so I just picked up the 20$ stainless steel guide rod. Worth every penny to me. The stainless guide rod only adds 1.1 ozs but it still helps handle the recoil allowing for faster followup shots and more accurately placed "controlled pairs."
Thanks for the tip. I poured my .45 tac guide rod full of lead this morning. Hopefully I'll get a chance to burn some powder tommorrow. I don't know what it weighed before,but it now weighs 2.666oz. I'm anxious to see if it makes much difference.
 

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I honestly think it is a waste of money. I bought a Wolff guide rod for my Beretta 96, but ONLY because it is my S.H.T.F., zombie apocalypse handgun, while carrying the polymer rod in my kit, just in case. (and every other spring & part that may need to be replaced since society will be complete chaos)

For concealed carry, for the range, for a bedside table handgun, etc... there is ZERO need to "upgrade" (still don't know if it actually IS an upgrade), to a metal guide rod. These handguns were DESIGNED to run with the polymer rod that comes from the factory.

A lot of guys I know and hear about spend more time buying and installing AfterMarket parts on their pistols than they do actually shooting the firearm. Heck, there are guys who have spent more money on "upgrades" than they have spent on ammo for the handgun ;)

Everyone who oooooo's and aaaahhhhhh's over the "torture tests" of our favorite handguns, and who brag to everyone about the torture test of their brand. Or the fact "I've never even cleaned or even wiped down my Glock/HK/XD after running over 7,000 rounds through it without a single hiccup. Yet the "torture tests" are done with a factory firearm, not one loaded with factory parts.

Yes, after considerable wear, you will need to change certain springs to keep it running. So buy replacement springs for when they are needed. Stay away from a plastic/rubber "buffer" for your 1911 to "prevent undesireable wear due to a design flaw of John Browning." !!!! Really? If they actually did anything, 1911 makers would either solve that 'flawed design problem', or ship their pistols with the cheap little plastic buffer.

Trying to solve a problem that is not even there. By doing so, you can actually make your firearm less reliable/accurate.
Try training and shooting your firearm in order to become a better shooter. Save your money by trying to 'fix' a problem that is not there and buy more ammo. Your pistol shipped from the factory just fine...unless you have an unreliable handgun already, then no amount of aftermarket parts will help you. Buy a better handgun, then practice with it. I will bet my paycheck that if you do that, you will see that an "upgrade" is not needed
 

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I honestly think it is a waste of money. I bought a Wolff guide rod for my Beretta 96, but ONLY because it is my S.H.T.F., zombie apocalypse handgun, while carrying the polymer rod in my kit, just in case. (and every other spring & part that may need to be replaced since society will be complete chaos)

For concealed carry, for the range, for a bedside table handgun, etc... there is ZERO need to "upgrade" (still don't know if it actually IS an upgrade), to a metal guide rod. These handguns were DESIGNED to run with the polymer rod that comes from the factory.

A lot of guys I know and hear about spend more time buying and installing AfterMarket parts on their pistols than they do actually shooting the firearm. Heck, there are guys who have spent more money on "upgrades" than they have spent on ammo for the handgun ;)

Everyone who oooooo's and aaaahhhhhh's over the "torture tests" of our favorite handguns, and who brag to everyone about the torture test of their brand. Or the fact "I've never even cleaned or even wiped down my Glock/HK/XD after running over 7,000 rounds through it without a single hiccup. Yet the "torture tests" are done with a factory firearm, not one loaded with factory parts.

Yes, after considerable wear, you will need to change certain springs to keep it running. So buy replacement springs for when they are needed. Stay away from a plastic/rubber "buffer" for your 1911 to "prevent undesireable wear due to a design flaw of John Browning." !!!! Really? If they actually did anything, 1911 makers would either solve that 'flawed design problem', or ship their pistols with the cheap little plastic buffer.

Trying to solve a problem that is not even there. By doing so, you can actually make your firearm less reliable/accurate.
Try training and shooting your firearm in order to become a better shooter. Save your money by trying to 'fix' a problem that is not there and buy more ammo. Your pistol shipped from the factory just fine...unless you have an unreliable handgun already, then no amount of aftermarket parts will help you. Buy a better handgun, then practice with it. I will bet my paycheck that if you do that, you will see that an "upgrade" is not needed
Blah. Blah. Blah. PRP trigger DEFINITELY made my xd a better gun. So will Trijicon hd's when I get'em. Heavier guide rod might. If not it'll be cheap and easy to reverse. If John Browning were alive today you can bet your *** he wouldn't be packin a bone stock GI 1911. ;)
 

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Blah. Blah. Blah. PRP trigger DEFINITELY made my xd a better gun. So will Trijicon hd's when I get'em. Heavier guide rod might. If not it'll be cheap and easy to reverse. If John Browning were alive today you can bet your *** he wouldn't be packin a bone stock GI 1911. ;)
LMAO! It must lend some credence to it if Rob Leatham's willing to mod his XDm 5.25 with a tungsten guide rod. It's a great competition pistol stock. I'm with you, it's worth a shot and no harm done if it doesn't help with recoil. Like you said, cheap and easy to reverse.
 

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Not specific to any particular firearm, but a change in guide rod weight helps some deal with recoil ... The spring should not deviate much from factory, unless you are reloading and tailoring ammo for competition, etcetera.

IMO,
It's a waste of money for most people, but a bragging right, for those who modify their firearms, and don't mind saying they spent X amount of money to get what they want.

Then again,
My opinion has caused people to think I hate them ... LOL

Really? I expect an honest answer with no varnish -- you give that, so I actually read your posts closer than most. Silly me;)


I'm curious about how you did this. I'm currently casting lead boolits for reloading so I may give this a try.


Thanks.
Post #54 shows what I did with mine.

http://www.xdtalk.com/forums/xd-m-discussion-room-xd-m/147657-ok-i-did-i-filled-xdm-guide-rod-w-lead-2.html


I honestly think it is a waste of money. I bought a Wolff guide rod for my Beretta 96, but ONLY because it is my S.H.T.F., zombie apocalypse handgun, while carrying the polymer rod in my kit, just in case. (and every other spring & part that may need to be replaced since society will be complete chaos)

For concealed carry, for the range, for a bedside table handgun, etc... there is ZERO need to "upgrade" (still don't know if it actually IS an upgrade), to a metal guide rod. These handguns were DESIGNED to run with the polymer rod that comes from the factory.
Rykko -- news flash; The 4.5" 9mm and .40 don't come with a polymer rod. They come with a hollow steel rod and a separate spring.


I don't have a lot of $$ to blow on useless BS, but I spent a few bucks soldering Tungsten into my .40's guide rod. Don't know what others may say about it, but it made the gun easier to shoot for me. It's 2x the weight of only solder filling. Less of that mythical .40 flip and more of a .45 push now resulting in faster more accurate followup shots. The weight out in the front also makes the gun more stable while aiming. It also has a DIY polish of the trigger/sear/striker components and a DIY PRP basic kit with factory springs. Everyone that shoots it has a comment like "wow! that's frigg'n awesome"

By the way, I spend way more time cleaning my guns than I do actually shooting them. After all, it's on the order of 4 milliseconds per shot, that's shooting 225,000 rounds to equal the 15 minutes spent cleaning...:shock:
 

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Really? I expect an honest answer with no varnish -- you give that, so I actually read your posts closer than most. Silly me;)

By the way, I spend way more time cleaning my guns than I do actually shooting them. After all, it's on the order of 4 milliseconds per shot, that's shooting 225,000 rounds to equal the 15 minutes spent cleaning...:shock:
Thanks, and ... Has anyone ever called you a clean freak :p
 

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hello. anybody know where i can order online a stainless guide rod for xdm wherein i can pay for it using an international credit card (i live in the philippines) and have it send there to my sister in california? been to pistolgear, xdguys, canyon creek, springer precision, powder river precision but they will only accept local(U.S) credit card
 
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