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Discussion Starter #1
I think I have a non-issue here, but I'd like some input on what might have caused this situation.

I have an XD(M) .45 ACP. While out camping recently a friend and I took a couple younger guys in the group out to shoot during some downtime. They had very little experience shooting pistols--probably less than 40 rounds ever between the two of them with handguns.

When ready, I let them load the magazine and drop the slide themselves. Twice that day the very first shot after dropping the slide failed to fire.

Both times, I definitely heard the click of the striker (I was right by their shoulder to handle any safety or weapon problems). I took the XDM from them both times to inspect it. I locked the slide. Both times there was definitely a round chambered but no mark at all on the primers. Re-firing the rounds worked fine both times.

I have 670 rounds through this XDM so far, a mix of Federal Champion and Winchester white box. I have not had a single issue so far other than these two failures to fire.

So, any ideas what might have happened? I'd like to think this was operator error of some kind. I wonder if maybe they 'rode the slide' as they dropped it and I just didn't notice it, causing some sort of issue there. I'm fairly new to semiautomatic pistols myself so I'm sure there could be something common here that I'm just not familiar with.

Thanks!
 

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First,
Welcome to the forum :cool:

The striker channel might be gummed up ... Get some GunScrubber, or non-chlorinated brake cleaner, and blast the heck out of it, from the front and back, using the little tube that comes with said product.
Don't take it apart ... To clean it.
It's not worth the hassle !!!

Then,
Don't oil that area ... It functions fine when running dry.

That's been my method, and I have no problem staking my life, or the durability of the gun when using this method.

XD9 Fails
Take a look at the pictures, and you'll see that I am not nice to my XD, and it still runs like a Timex watch.

FWIW,
The gun (all my guns) has been on a diet of Brake cleaner, Hoppes #9 for cleaning the barrel (or straight acetone, the main ingredient in Hoppes), Mobil 1, and white lithium grease for a few years now.
Call me cheap ... The stuff works !!!

The only ones that get special treatment are the Eastern block, corrosive ammo stuff ... They get their barrels doused with glass gleaner to neutralize the corrosive effects of the ammo I use, then they get Hoppes, Mobil 1, and lithium grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I actually read that exact post just before I bought my XDM while still doing research on it, so I've always been careful about not getting oil on the striker. I really just keep around Hoppes #9 so I'll have to look around for something like Gunscrubber that I've seen mentioned before for areas like the striker. Thanks for the tips!

One suggestion made is that they might have not let the slide down full-force and maybe--just maybe--the slide wasn't 100% closed. Just enough that the sear engaged to trip the striker (or however precisely that happens) but not enough to bring the barrel back completely level again. Unfortunately I had locked the slide back before looking for that.
 

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I actually read that exact post just before I bought my XDM while still doing research on it, so I've always been careful about not getting oil on the striker. I really just keep around Hoppes #9 so I'll have to look around for something like Gunscrubber that I've seen mentioned before for areas like the striker. Thanks for the tips!

One suggestion made is that they might have not let the slide down full-force and maybe--just maybe--the slide wasn't 100% closed. Just enough that the sear engaged to trip the striker (or however precisely that happens) but not enough to bring the barrel back completely level again. Unfortunately I had locked the slide back before looking for that.
I douse the entire gun with the stuff, when cleaning ... Not just the striker area.
 

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First,
Welcome to the forum :cool:

The striker channel might be gummed up ... Get some GunScrubber, or non-chlorinated brake cleaner, and blast the heck out of it, from the front and back, using the little tube that comes with said product.
Don't take it apart ... To clean it.
It's not worth the hassle !!!

Then,
Don't oil that area ... It functions fine when running dry.

That's been my method, and I have no problem staking my life, or the durability of the gun when using this method.

XD9 Fails
Take a look at the pictures, and you'll see that I am not nice to my XD, and it still runs like a Timex watch.

FWIW,
The gun (all my guns) has been on a diet of Brake cleaner, Hoppes #9 for cleaning the barrel (or straight acetone, the main ingredient in Hoppes), Mobil 1, and white lithium grease for a few years now.
Call me cheap ... The stuff works !!!

The only ones that get special treatment are the Eastern block, corrosive ammo stuff ... They get their barrels doused with glass gleaner to neutralize the corrosive effects of the ammo I use, then they get Hoppes, Mobil 1, and lithium grease.
Guess you didn't read that the gun works fine, it only happened when the new shooters released the slide.

I suspect they eased the slide forward and it was not fully in battery.

don
 

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Guess you didn't read that the gun works fine, it only happened when the new shooters released the slide.

I suspect they eased the slide forward and it was not fully in battery.

don
He did say "I definitely heard the click of the striker" ... So,
Suggestion ... Take your gun, make sure it is unloaded, then stick a credit card into the edge of it, thus ensuring it is not in full battery, and pull the trigger as hard as you want ... The striker will not move.

If it does, you need to send it to SA and have them fix it.

Your suspicion might be correct, but the description given says otherwise, or ... The gun is unsafe and needs to be fixed.
 

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Don't know what it could be aside from the gummed striker. I have a different opinion that once a striker is gummed up, it's best to take it apart and physically clean it with q-tips etc. It is a bit more work, but not all that bad. Hardest part is worrying that you're doing it wrong the first go round. I've never timed myself, but it's probably an under 2 minute task to remove the striker.

If you want to try the spray method, after field stripping, spray into the "firing pin" hole and also a debris slot close by the front of the striker channel area. You'll see it pretty easy if you manually move the striker and look. Use the tube and spray the snickers out of it in those 2 spots. Spray a bit and wait 30 seconds for it to dissolve gunk then spray to flush and repeat until there is no more dark crap coming out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
He did say "I definitely heard the click of the striker" ... So,
Suggestion ... Take your gun, make sure it is unloaded, then stick a credit card into the edge of it, thus ensuring it is not in full battery, and pull the trigger as hard as you want ... The striker will not move.

If it does, you need to send it to SA and have them fix it.

Your suspicion might be correct, but the description given says otherwise, or ... The gun is unsafe and needs to be fixed.
You know, now that I'm back home I'm messing with it similar to how you say. If I ease the slide down to the point that the back of the barrel (the area that fills in the ejection port) at least 'breaks the plane' of the top of the slide in that area--hopefully you get what I'm describing--I can still pull the trigger, though it does sound different than usual.

I do not dry fire while wearing hearing protection so I'm not used to the exact sound. Knowing that, I really do think that is what happened at this point--the slide was not 100% engaged.

Before I really jump the gun (no pun intended) and contact SA about a possible issue, I'd like for others to try the same. If I pull the slide back enough that the barrel actually drops low enough to start to go under the slide then no, pulling the trigger does not drop the striker. If it is still high enough to be fully within the ejection port area then I can pull the trigger and the striker does drop, though it does not sound quite the same as a fully engaged dry fire.

Edit: Unfortunately I don't have any 45 snap caps right now so I can't see what the striker might be doing to a primer in this state, but I'm guessing that the chamber, and thus the round, is lowered enough to bring it out of alignment with the firing pin.
 

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You know, now that I'm back home I'm messing with it similar to how you say. If I ease the slide down to the point that the back of the barrel (the area that fills in the ejection port) at least 'breaks the plane' of the top of the slide in that area--hopefully you get what I'm describing--I can still pull the trigger, though it does sound different than usual.

I do not dry fire while wearing hearing protection so I'm not used to the exact sound. Knowing that, I really do think that is what happened at this point--the slide was not 100% engaged.

Before I really jump the gun (no pun intended) and contact SA about a possible issue, I'd like for others to try the same. If I pull the slide back enough that the barrel actually drops low enough to start to go under the slide then no, pulling the trigger does not drop the striker. If it is still high enough to be fully within the ejection port area then I can pull the trigger and the striker does drop, though it does not sound quite the same as a fully engaged dry fire.

Edit: Unfortunately I don't have any 45 snap caps right now so I can't see what the striker might be doing to a primer in this state, but I'm guessing that the chamber, and thus the round, is lowered enough to bring it out of alignment with the firing pin.
I did what I described, just before I wrote that ... Used a credit card at the right edge, between the barrel and slide.
That has the barrel dropped by about 1/16 of an inch, as I recheck it, now.

Try it ... Dry firing won't hurt the gun, and you don't need a snap cap.

Also,
Is the slide moving forward to it's proper location ?

I just found out that I can move the slide back approximately 1/8 of an inch, and fire the gun, but the barrel is in full battery, and thus would fire a round, safely ... And I suspect this movement is normal to the design.

The thing is, once the barrel starts to drop, the gun is no longer in battery, and it should not fire ... Ever.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I did what I described, just before I wrote that ... Used a credit card at the right edge, between the barrel and slide.
That has the barrel dropped by about 1/16 of an inch, as I recheck it, now.

Try it ... Dry firing won't hurt the gun, and you don't need a snap cap.

Also,
Is the slide moving forward to it's proper location ?

I just found out that I can move the slide back approximately 1/8 of an inch, and fire the gun, but the barrel is in full battery, and thus would fire a round, safely ... And I suspect this movement is normal to the design.

The thing is, once the barrel starts to drop, the gun is no longer in battery, and it should not fire ... Ever.
I think you are seeing the exact same thing I'm speaking of. After about 1/8th inch movement back on the slide any tripping of the striker does sound different, once you get another fraction of an inch back from that it no longer engages.

Even at 1/8th of an inch, though, the barrel is absolutely started to be canted downward, thus away from the firing pin.

My apologies for the very poor picture quality, but I had serious trouble getting decent pictures taken while also holding the slide slightly out of battery by hand while taking them.

The top picture is the slide closed normally, full battery.

The middle picture is held slightly out of battery. The striker will fire in this position, though the barrel is moved downward around 1/8". Pulling the trigger and activating the striker produces a fair bit of force that causes the slide to finish engaging at this point, but I have no way of knowing if that is happening in time for the firing pin to strike a primer or not (assuming that the starting position was not engaged fully enough to strike the primer).

The bottom picture is held slightly further out. Pulling the trigger produces a fairly loud click, but does not actually drop the striker. Releasing the slide forward fully at this point will show the firing pin cocking indicator still sticking out, and you can press the trigger again to drop the striker fully.

$xdm-battery.jpg

I have a feeling that what happened to my XDM was the guys rode the slide in and it wasn't 100% in battery. The click I heard could have been like in the bottom picture--a very audible click, but the striker did not actually fire.

My problem is that when I took the XDM back from the shooter both times I did not look to see if the slide was fully forward or if the cocked firing pin indicator was showing. Instead my (still rather underdeveloped) instinct was first to hold the weapon safely in case I had a delayed fire, then to pull the magazine and lock the slide back to inspect the chambered round--if any--and the chamber.

If it ever happens again in the future I now know what to look for at least.
 

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I think you are seeing the exact same thing I'm speaking of.
It just occurred to me that I'm talking about an XD, and you're talking about an XDm ... That click you experience, might be the difference in the internal design change.

I need to pull the trigger to field strip, and you do not ... So I'm not sure what to say, now !!!

But if mine made any kind of a click noise, during the conditions we are trying to replicate, or actually activated the firing mechanism, I'd be thinking about sending it in for an inspection, or at least having a XD competent smith take a look at it.

I'm going shooting with some friends, and one has an XDm ... I'll do some quick playing, and get back to you about the click you are hearing.
 

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He did say "I definitely heard the click of the striker" ... So,
Suggestion ... Take your gun, make sure it is unloaded, then stick a credit card into the edge of it, thus ensuring it is not in full battery, and pull the trigger as hard as you want ... The striker will not move.

If it does, you need to send it to SA and have them fix it.

Your suspicion might be correct, but the description given says otherwise, or ... The gun is unsafe and needs to be fixed.
He "said" he heard the click of the striker, it may not have been the striker but the disconnector he was hearing.

don
 

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Guess you didn't read that the gun works fine, it only happened when the new shooters released the slide.

I suspect they eased the slide forward and it was not fully in battery.

don
I believe he said that they "dropped" the slides, not slingshot. most newbies prefer the slide release to charging. most of the time that kind of behavior is taught rather than improvised. I know working with M9s I found it was much easier to lock the slide to the rear, then insert the mag, then release the slide rather than insert mag, slap it to make sure it locked in place,and rack the slide while trying to avoid breaking blue.
 

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Sounds like its....

(A) Possibly a 'dirty' issue, as the majority of failures are due to improper maintenance... check that you dont have carbon built up somewhere.

(B) Possibly the slide isnt going fully forward... check operation, and if its not mechanical then refer to (A)
 

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Sounds like its....

(A) Possibly a 'dirty' issue, as the majority of failures are due to improper maintenance... check that you dont have carbon built up somewhere.

(B) Possibly the slide isnt going fully forward... check operation, and if its not mechanical then refer to (A)
Why is it that most of the people posting here did not read the op?

He said the pistol works fine after the newbe tried to fire it and it worked fine before! Nothing wrong with the pistol or ammo, just user problems.

don
 

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Why is it that most of the people posting here did not read the op?

He said the pistol works fine after the newbe tried to fire it and it worked fine before! Nothing wrong with the pistol or ammo, just user problems.

don
Pretty sure he said he WASNT SURE what happened and was new to semi autos himself.... but since you have the mystery figured out , maybe nobody else should post any possible causes of failure:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I just got back from the range with about another 200 rounds shot. About 50 WWB, and the rest Aguila (first time shooting this).

The second magazine or so of Aguila I decided to drop the slide with the lever rather than slingshotting it. I pulled the trigger and heard the same click that I heard in the previously mentioned failures. Since I was actually looking down the sights I actually saw it this time as the slide finished moving forward into full battery when I pulled the trigger. The striker was still cocked.

I dropped the mag and pull the round. It had a small dent in the side of the brass just below the base of the bullet (see note). I definitely noticed it took a little more force to extract that round as well. I did decide to re-fire the round since the dent was minor and pretty far up the brass. Slingshotting it chambered just fine and fired normally.

I intentionally used the slide lever to chamber that round initially to test the theory that it could have caused the slide not to fully engage in the incidents that started this thread. It does seem like it could have been something similar then, possibly a slightly out-of-whack round and using the lever to drop the slide.

Note: All of the Aguila rounds have a very pronounced ridge on the brass where the bottom of the bullet itself is seated. I haven't really seen this before, but it seems to shoot fine, aside from the one dented round. In general the rounds look better than most factory rounds I've bought with the exception of this ridge.
 

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interesting, so from the sounds of things the mag release doesn't seem to lock far enough to the rear to return the gun to battery after it's released while slingshotting and normal cycling does. I must say I dont have this issue with my XDM45 but you may have a weak recoil spring.

a trick I stumbled onto for 1911s(I'm not sure if it works on striker guns) is to slap the rear of slide with the butt of your nonfiring hand to force it back into battery. if it does work, you would have to do it before the failed firing attempt. so next time you're at the range you could load up some mags use the slide release and slap the back of the slide then try pulling the trigger and see if that works... a long term fix may be a stronger recoil spring( I know the one on there is already rough as it is) or calling springfield with a detailed description of the issue and sending it it. you may also check the guide rod and make sure that it's positioned right and not dented or bent.
 

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Pretty sure he said he WASNT SURE what happened and was new to semi autos himself.... but since you have the mystery figured out , maybe nobody else should post any possible causes of failure:rolleyes:
In case you hadn't noticed, they are all saying the same thing!
I don't believe most read all of the first post.

don
 

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In case you hadn't noticed, they are all saying the same thing!
I don't believe most read all of the first post.

don
In case you hadn't noticed, everyone else is trying to help him.

You're not :p
 
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