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Discussion Starter #1
A few months back, I won an XD 357 Sig, 4" gun at a PPC match. I am considering buying a 40 S&W barrel for it since 357 Sig ammo pricing is outta' this world.
I like the gun well enough, but for a 4" gun, the grip is a bit long compared to my G19 (and the same frame in 40, the G23). So for me, it's not the better carry gun of the two. And at 12+1, it carries less than a G23 or my Sigma in 40 S&W, also a 4" gun.
Speaking of the Sigma, people always bash the gun for it's trigger, personally, I think that it is a great self-defense trigger, it WON'T go off before you want it to. But, the trigger on my XD is almost as long a pull and every bit as hard to pull. So that means that either I have a very good trigger on my Sigma, or nobody wants to talk about the "horrible" trigger on the XD. I put horrible in quotes because most people describe the Sigma trigger like that, and worse. To me, they are the same.
Now, due to it being bigger than the above mentioned guns, I do not plan on carrying it as a CCW because I have better (sized) guns for that. But I would like to use it as a range/competition gun. For this, the tough trigger has to go. Any suggestions???

Thanks.
 

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:shock: What??? If your 5-7lbs trigger on your XD feels like your 12lbs Sigma, I think your XD trigger has some SERIOUS issues. Maybe you should have that looked at. :?

There is just NO WAY that an XD single action trigger is gonna be anything like the Sigma's DA trigger. Unless that Sigma trigger has had some kind of Swiss watch makers guts that have been fluffed and buffed. Or...has made a detour stop to the Kimber Solo shop, before you got it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
:shock: What??? If your 5-7lbs trigger on your XD feels like your 12lbs Sigma, I think your XD trigger has some SERIOUS issues. Maybe you should have that looked at. :?
Yeah, it's a hard pull. To be fair though, I only have a few boxes through it. Maybe the trigger will improve after several more. It did for the Sigma.

Ironically, I was shooting it at 50', at 4" shoot-n-see targets . This setup to test fire different PPC loads (how I won the gun in the first place). Six shots from my model 15 went into a single, largish hole at that distance. Then I tried the XD. I couldn't hit the paper! It's not because I'm a bad shot, the model 15 (and most of my other shooting) is proof of that. I thought about it and figured that I was pulling it off target (that tough trigger thing). So, I aim up and left (I'm a lefty and tend to pull low and right if I'm gonna miss at all) to the outer ring at 10 0'clock. Just creeping back onto the lower right side of target. So up and left some more, right to the upper left edge of the target. Now I'm in the black. A little more adjustment and I can consistently hit near the bull. That came to almost 8" compensating for my pulling the gun down/right. The ONLY time that happened to that extreme, was with my then, new, Sigma. I have learned how to hold and shoot that gun since, it works very well now. I just didn't expect that from an XD. I really thought that it would be more Glock-like or an M&P even.
 

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I agree, there is definitely something wrong with your trigger if it's that hard to pull. If your going to get a trigger job you can't go wrong with Springer Precision, PRP or Canyon Creek. The kits are good, but having it done by a pro is great. I had Springer Precision do mine and I couldn't be happier.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I agree, there is definitely something wrong with your trigger if it's that hard to pull. If your going to get a trigger job you can't go wrong with Springer Precision, PRP or Canyon Creek. The kits are good, but having it done by a pro is great. I had Springer Precision do mine and I couldn't be happier.
What about the factory?
I was considering the custom shop for the barrel fit anyway. And the trigger should be in warranty, as the gun is only 3.5 months old and less than 200 rounds through it. I talked with someone there in the custom shop and was told that for $190, including shipping back to me, they would fit, test (with my mags) and guarantee the barrel work. So I was kinda leaning that way.
 

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Having owned both, the triggers on mine were light years apart. I actually think sigmas are great guns for the price. Recently saw them on sale for $269. Sold mine for a xd years ago, just couldn't get used to the trigger. Your xd's pull should be about half the weight. I remember reading a post somewhere about a xd owner with a similar problem. Pretty sure his pull from the factory was over 10 lbs. Springfield covered it as warranty issue.
 

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If you are a good enough shot with a 4" (short sight radius) to need a custom fit barrel, the SA shop could do the job and it would be under warranty. For a "normal" drop-in fit barrel you would save some upfront bucks doing it yourself (probably 98% do not need any fitting, but there are exceptions).
Same for a trigger kit. As noted previously, several good DYI kits are avaialble or you can send it to the kit maker for a pro installation. SA does several grades of trigger and will warrant them. Depends on your level of mechanical skill - mostly a file or sand paper.
From reports here on the forum, SA seems to do good work on anything except night sights. Had a few complaints of broken tritium vials. But these were under warranty. Really your choice.
I have drop-in fit barrels from Pistolgear (house branded Storm Lake barrels) and DYI trigger kits from PRP. Like both. No problems.
 

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If you have access to a polishing wheel, you can make some quick cheap improvements. Field strip the gun, then drive out the striker retaining pin from the underside of the slide. Remove the back plate and take out the striker. While it's out, clean up the striker channel and degrease it (if it has been oiled). The striker and channel can be run bone dry or a quick spritz with a no residue lube like 100% silicone or similar. Polish the angled ramp and the vertical part of the ramp. That vertical part is what is held by the sear. You want it to have a SHARP edge and be smooth and square. I polished the whole striker - just because.

Next take out the sear and polish it where it will be contacting the striker. Again, keep the edge sharp, smooth and square. DO NOT remove material, just smooth it. Clean the pin and pin hole then lube it with your favorite lube. I use a tiny dab of quality syn grease. Put it all back and then smear a tiny dab of the same lube on the sear where it will be holding the striker.

Here's pictures of the final polished striker and sear in the gun. You can see reflections of various parts in them. BUT mirror finish was not my goal, just smooth.





Take out the trigger block and clean the trigger pivot points then apply a tiny dab of your favorite lube and reassemble. Monitor the trigger bar and see if it is rubbing on anything. Polish and lube as required should you see the need. Dry lube is better than wet residue leaving lube.

You can find vids online showing the details of how to do the above. It's not hard, just don't pull that back plate off quickly or the striker spring or bushing will shoot out.

After doing all that, it should smooth out, feel a lot better and be around 6-7 pound pull. If you still have issues, re-inspect after a few hundred dry fires (or live fires) for any signs of rubbing or other bad behavior. If you find anything, correct as needed. If you still don't like it, then a kit from your favorite company will get it the rest of the way. If you STILL don't like it, then you'd best send it to me for proper "disposal". ;)
 

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If you look at J-Bs pics, in the pre=polish shot you can see the rub mark where the sear was being contacted by the striker. If you know how to use a fine stone (very flat and maybe 1000 grit or higher) you can lightly dress the adjacent contact surfaces of the sear and striker to get a more even contact across the entire surface. The larger smooth contact surfaces should slide against each other with less resistance than a the original small or partial rough contact. Do not change the angles or round the edges. Check where the bottom front edge of the striker breaks over the top back edge of the sear. These surfaces should also be parallel so the entire edge breaks over cleanly.
If you are unsure about how or how much to dress with a stone, forego this step and just do the light polish.
 

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I agree, there is definitely something wrong with your trigger if it's that hard to pull. If your going to get a trigger job you can't go wrong with Springer Precision, PRP or Canyon Creek. The kits are good, but having it done by a pro is great. I had Springer Precision do mine and I couldn't be happier.
Maybe that's why they gave it away as his prize! joke:razz:
 

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357sig is a very accurate round in some posts even more than the 40. Yes it's pricey but I reload and there are some real advantages by using 9mm bullets but to get the most out it you must use 357sig bullets because of their heavier jacket. Mine has great trigger but it was bought used and well broke in.
 
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