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Hello, this is my first post. I did not find the info I have below. I am very sure many already know this info, but I though some could benefit. I am hoping is is of good use to many. I also assume the reader does not have a proper press tool or the like...

I wanted to share some info others may find of use IF you want to remove your factory sights. First, when I remove the sights I do not care what there general condition is (that is if there is a small flat on the side it is not of concern as I am only removing the sight to put what I think IMHO is a better one to suit my needs in place.) Also, I spent a few hours reading the posts on "How" to do this. I think there are some consistent items that are overlooked.
The slide MUST be secured from movement. I placed the slide in a machinist vise with a pair of cold rolled steel flats that were a bit thicker than the difference btwn the base of the slide side and the top (roughly 3/16"). A sheet of cardboard (like that found on a notebook) was place between the slide and the steel. The cardboard protects the finish and the steel grips the slide spreading the force evenly over the slide. DO NOT pinch the base of the slide, I feel you will crack or bend it.

So the picture this you will have is vise steel cardboard slide cardboard steel vise in left to right order (or the reverse holds true too!). The end of the slide may extend beyond the slide a 1/2" or so but no more. Ideally none should extend. Tighten the vise up snuggly...no hammering of the vise with a rubber hammer is needed but about as snug as hands can do.

Take a 5/16" steel Starrett pin punch and a solid 4# hand mall. You may tape the end of the punch's side to prevent contact with the slide, if you wish. The sight must be driven to the right (think left in and right out). Place the punch firmly and flatly against the right side of the sight and give it a firm blow with the hammer making sure the edge of the punch is ABOVE the edge of the dovetail. About four blows will remove the sight w/o much of a mark on the sight (if any). Repeat for the other sight.

Key points are an absolutely non-moveable slide lock-up and a large heavy hand mall to deliver a solid blow. Any other set-up will absorb your efforts in a bending hamer handle or a bouncing slide.

The same is true if you are setting or driving pins. Any bounce willl cause a pin to do a "double tap" to the pin and usually the surrounding area. (Do not ask me why I know.)

I hope that is of help. The sights are hard to move w/o the above set-up. I read of guys driving them out on bench tops, wrapped up and hand held. I bow to you who have done that for it is far beyond my ability.

Hope this was worth your time to read.
 

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While your method may indeed work and it sounds like you've put some good thought into it, I would not recommend that most people attempt this. These sights are notoriously hard to remove and IMHO should be done only by experienced gunsmiths with the proper sight tools.....
 

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Oh Yea, Welcome to the forum...From Wonderful Wyoming.
 

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I removed the sights off of several XDs using a vice, punch, hammer, two thin pieces of wood and cardboard from a 12pk of beer. Welcome from SW Texas.
 

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While your method may indeed work and it sounds like you've put some good thought into it, I would not recommend that most people attempt this. These sights are notoriously hard to remove and IMHO should be done only by experienced gunsmiths with the proper sight tools.....
I agree here, particularly because a lot of the sponsers here do it for less than 30 bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I removed the sights off of several XDs using a vice, punch, hammer, two thin pieces of wood and cardboard from a 12pk of beer. Welcome from SW Texas.
Does one finish the beer before the job for courage or after the job for relief??

Thanks for the welcome everyone.

I replaced the factory sights with a trijion set. A ultimate trigger kit from powder river is also on the way for this particular 40.
 

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Does one finish the beer before the job for courage or after the job for relief??

Thanks for the welcome everyone.

I replaced the factory sights with a trijion set. A ultimate trigger kit from powder river is also on the way for this particular 40.
There you go....I think you will fit in well here!

Welcome.
 

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Does one finish the beer before the job for courage or after the job for relief??

Thanks for the welcome everyone.

I replaced the factory sights with a trijion set. A ultimate trigger kit from powder river is also on the way for this particular 40.
Desperate times call for desperate measures, I needed the cardboard so I made the decision to cowboy up and drink the beer so I could use the cardboard. :D Sometimes one has to make the hard decisions.
 

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Desperate times call for desperate measures, I needed the cardboard so I made the decision to cowboy up and drink the beer so I could use the cardboard. :D Sometimes one has to make the hard decisions.
<John Wayne drawl> Sometimes a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do, Pilgrim!
 

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Well this thread certainly produced a lot of information, related to the original question. I don't know how long someone would need to process that morass of info. :confused: My word is to not attempt this, get someone (knowledgeable) not your second cousin on your aunt's side---you know the family idiot. "Doc"
 

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I disagree with that. If you are capable and take your time it's doable. Some people like to do things for themselves. If your the kind that can't change a tire, or change your own oil then yes have someone else do it.
 

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when i have to clean my XD i send it to the gunsmith because i can and im rich.
 

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I worked in a machine shop for several years and we built engines and other things. When we had an engine block that had a cracked cylinder we would put in a sleeve. It was a press fit . The way we done it was to bore the cylinder just undersize of the sleeve and put the sleeve in the freezer for about 30 mins. This would make the sleeve contract and ease installing into the press fit.

Do y'all think this might work with the install of the sights. Just put them in the freezer for a little while and maybe they will slide in easier. Haven't tried it but it has crossed my mind.

kenken
 

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I worked in a machine shop for several years and we built engines and other things. When we had an engine block that had a cracked cylinder we would put in a sleeve. It was a press fit . The way we done it was to bore the cylinder just undersize of the sleeve and put the sleeve in the freezer for about 30 mins. This would make the sleeve contract and ease installing into the press fit.

Do y'all think this might work with the install of the sights. Just put them in the freezer for a little while and maybe they will slide in easier. Haven't tried it but it has crossed my mind.

kenken
This has been mentioned before.

IIRC, James from xd-hs2000 mentioned it can cause rust inside the sight channel
 

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The real lesson is that you take a methodical approach and take your time to do it right.
+1
And using the proper tools cannot be overemphasized in this case.
 

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This has been mentioned before.

IIRC, James from xd-hs2000 mentioned it can cause rust inside the sight channel
here you go, I have had several customers that tried the freezer trick. If you freeze the slide and them move it to a warmer area it will sweat. Think of all the condensation that happens from a cold cup. Just because the slide has been melonited does not mean the innards are. In the picture below the spring rusted enough that rust dust was on the plastic spring guide.

 
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