XD Cleaning
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2,381 Posts
No issues with Tetra.
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8,278 Posts
Hoppes #9...preferably in the spraycan when I can find it...
Every 4 months I use some JBs Bore Paste to keep the barrel nice an shiny on the inside...
Birchwood Casey Gun Grease for lubrication
Outside its a Silicone Cloth and occasional wiping of Breakfree...easy peasy
Every 4 months I use some JBs Bore Paste to keep the barrel nice an shiny on the inside...
Birchwood Casey Gun Grease for lubrication
Outside its a Silicone Cloth and occasional wiping of Breakfree...easy peasy
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196 Posts
+2 Break-Free CLP
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16,913 Posts
Anything but CLP.
The top end currently is slip2000ewl and fireclean. But it will work if its not CLP and not in the firing pin channel
Mobil 1
Frog lube
3 in 1 house oil
militec1
The list goes on ad naseum.
Non chlorinated break cleaner if you have a mess on your hands.
Safety is a momentary choice. Prior performance and certification are completely irrelevant.
The top end currently is slip2000ewl and fireclean. But it will work if its not CLP and not in the firing pin channel
Mobil 1
Frog lube
3 in 1 house oil
militec1
The list goes on ad naseum.
Non chlorinated break cleaner if you have a mess on your hands.
Safety is a momentary choice. Prior performance and certification are completely irrelevant.
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8,278 Posts
if you think its worth the added costs, go with it...I personally do not...
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102 Posts
I've been testing two non-petroleum based CLP's, one being frog lube and the other being gunzilla. I've used hoppes #9 and rem-oil, until the incident (improper ventilation). Neither have ventilation issues and both do provide excellent cleaning, lubrication and protecting. They are proportionately more expensive than traditional CLP's, but since my workbench is in my basement, the price differential is nothing. Both work best when the weapons are warmed up to 120 to 150 degrees or so and when you cover the parts and let the metal cool down.
Personally I warm them up and apply product, a couple of times, during a full cleaning, as both products wick their way into the pores of the metal and displace all of the contaminates.
The thing about both of these products is that you need to temper them, which is nothing more than purging the metal of all petroleum based lubricants. Translation: You have to do 2 or 3 full cleanings the first time. But once it's done, the metal will feel noticeably smoother, if not down right supple.
I know I'm sold as I've done this to 5 mosins, one of which is over a hundred years old, an ak, a half dozen pistols and a couple modern semi-automatic rifles, with no ill effect.
So it all comes down to simple economics... Of these two products, ounce for ounce, frog lube is much more expensive, but you don't wind up using as much of it when you do a cleaning. Trust me, a little of it goes a long way, and it lasts a long time. The thing I like about gunzilla is that it seems to be a lot more effective in removing copper fouling, without the need for additional products. Froglube also has a spray liquid that's used exclusively to remove lead and copper fouling, where is gunzilla is all in one.
The only other downside is that gunzilla smells like ass when it's applied to warm metal. Frog lube doesn't. Also, froglube doesn't really require the use of gloves, but I would recommend it. It won't irritate your skin at all.
Didn't mean to write a book, but just my two cents.
Personally I warm them up and apply product, a couple of times, during a full cleaning, as both products wick their way into the pores of the metal and displace all of the contaminates.
The thing about both of these products is that you need to temper them, which is nothing more than purging the metal of all petroleum based lubricants. Translation: You have to do 2 or 3 full cleanings the first time. But once it's done, the metal will feel noticeably smoother, if not down right supple.
I know I'm sold as I've done this to 5 mosins, one of which is over a hundred years old, an ak, a half dozen pistols and a couple modern semi-automatic rifles, with no ill effect.
So it all comes down to simple economics... Of these two products, ounce for ounce, frog lube is much more expensive, but you don't wind up using as much of it when you do a cleaning. Trust me, a little of it goes a long way, and it lasts a long time. The thing I like about gunzilla is that it seems to be a lot more effective in removing copper fouling, without the need for additional products. Froglube also has a spray liquid that's used exclusively to remove lead and copper fouling, where is gunzilla is all in one.
The only other downside is that gunzilla smells like ass when it's applied to warm metal. Frog lube doesn't. Also, froglube doesn't really require the use of gloves, but I would recommend it. It won't irritate your skin at all.
Didn't mean to write a book, but just my two cents.
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133 Posts
Froglube FTMFW!
It's a great cleaner and lube. Once you treat the gun twice as directed in the instructions, cleaning is super easy after a day at the range.
Some things mentioned in this thread are just cleaners, or just lube. It's nice to have only 1 product to do everything, not to mention is smells good, the wife won't get pissed off and it won't stain furniture/clothes.
It's a great cleaner and lube. Once you treat the gun twice as directed in the instructions, cleaning is super easy after a day at the range.
Some things mentioned in this thread are just cleaners, or just lube. It's nice to have only 1 product to do everything, not to mention is smells good, the wife won't get pissed off and it won't stain furniture/clothes.
I usually use a combination of Hoppes #9 and Breakfree CLP for the bore and internals. I then wipe it down with patches and hit it with some compressed air. I use gun butter for lube. I have and use Frog Lube on my 1911. I have not switched to it for all of my guns, but so far I am liking it.
I use Hoppe's #9 for cleaning. Pour a little on toothbrush and scrub inside of slide. Then I spray slide with CRC non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Slide is squeaky clean. While slide is drying, clean bore with brush and patches using Hoppe's #9. Clean slide rails on frame. Then I lubricate all moving areas with Hoppe's Elite gun oil. Gun is clean, lubed and ready to go. Only takes a few minutes. ( use break cleaner outdoors)
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207 Posts
I use a bunch of stuff trying to use of my supply of different stuff for different guns and decide on what to use for good.
WD-40 specialist
WD-40
Hoppes Lube
Hoppes #9
Break Free CPL
Super Tech non chlorinated break cleaner
Ezox
Birchwood Casey choke tube grease
WD-40 specialist
WD-40
Hoppes Lube
Hoppes #9
Break Free CPL
Super Tech non chlorinated break cleaner
Ezox
Birchwood Casey choke tube grease
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