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What dry lube is everyone using for the striker? I know you should not oil it up, but I noticed from the factory there was some lube and I have heard many people use a dry silicone spray lube on the striker. Just wanted to see what everyone is using.
 

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I don't use any lube on the striker, I simply clean it and the channel with gun scrubber.

You could do some out of gun testing. Get a steel rod, treat it with what you think will work and then hit it with a flame and see if it gets gummy or whatever. That experiment may not relate to what will happen but if it gums up in this test, it will probably foul the striker. Hmm. I think I'll go try that test myself and see what's cooking.

As to what lube you find on weapon from the factory, well they have to take into consideration that a gun may sit on the shelf for some period of time before being sold and they don't want rust forming on them. Some of my new acquisitions are just dripping in oil or slobbered with grease. I always clean a new gun before taking it to the range.
 

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I don't use any lube on the striker, I simply clean it and the channel with gun scrubber.
That's been my method, also ... And it's never been a problem.
 

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Keep the striker dry and burr-free and you will have no issues. You can get some carbon built up in the small striker hole over time but in most cases that will not stop the striker.

OS
 

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would dry moly be good for this area? i've picked one can recently and tried it on my HS45. seems ok but would like to know for sure.
 

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would dry moly be good for this area? i've picked one can recently and tried it on my HS45. seems ok but would like to know for sure.
Short of getting a baked on coating with a hard, slick, high temp coating, its really a bad idea to have it lubed with anything.

There are plenty of posts of sticky strikers from lube, but none from striker's breaking or wearing out from lack of lube.

That pretty much answers it for me.

No need to lube it if I can get 25,000 plus rounds per striker before replacing it. Compared to it possibly sticking from lube and the 50 bucks a striker may cost after that many rounds.......Ill take my chances with a dry striker. I don't see a need to lube it.


Let us know how that HS is lubed after 100 and then again after 5000 rounds. I bet my unlubed XD will be less sticky.......
 

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many great points, I'll add another: the striker is basically floating in that channel, not wearing against the walls. So lube not required, will do more harm than good. I'd be surprised if any signs of wear on high round strikers
 

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many great points, I'll add another: the striker is basically floating in that channel, not wearing against the walls. So lube not required, will do more harm than good. I'd be surprised if any signs of wear on high round strikers
You will see wear on the firing pin after a high round count. I recommend a light coat of oil in the firing pin tunnel. If you can see it and move the oil around that is too much. You can run them dry, with the right/wrong powder it will leave a gummy residue that can cause problems as it works it's way into the firing pin tunnel. Either way will work with the proper maintenance.
Rich
 

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Well, Rich being a top XD gunsmith, I will not doubt his skills, but it sounds like the best coarse of action is dry or very little oil, and regardless.....clean the gun after firing to get rid of any possible causes of stickiness.

Not that it is hard to take out striker, but it would seem to put a very light coat in the tunnel, you would need to pull the striker....that is an extra step, but I can see from Rich's standpoint the value.

Thanks for the edition Rich.....
 

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I've had an XD striker out exactly one time. Deburred it, shot it with some Liquid Wrench dry ceramic "lube" and never plan on touching it again.
XD-edited for length-22 made a good point about the likelihood of a striker failure oiled vs non oiled.
 

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Well Dr. Old4eyes ran a totally unscientific test in his laboratory (AKA Garage). I took the remnants of two steel rivets (not hard steel one would see in a firing pin) and left 1 non treated, and put on the dry lubricator of my choice - Eezox. I then subjected each to the flame of a kitchen match. One match per sample. There was very minor difference between the results, possibly the treated sample giving more soot. I would not call the results sticky nor would I even begin to call the results scientific. What I would say that either way I'd be hitting a firing pin that exhibited the carbon/soot that I saw in both samples with gunscrubber. So we're back to what I use as a cleaning treatment that would wipe out whatever "lubricant" I would apply. And it should be noted that I use Eezox much more as a rust inhibitor than as a lubricant.
 
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