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Discussion Starter #1
Purchased a 10mm OSP with Vortex red Dot about 2 months+/- ago. Today I had time to take the plate off and install the red dot. I wasn't happening.
1. I tried to take the screws out with the supplied wrench in the case. NO luck.
2. I tried the soldering iron to heat the screw locking compound. No luck.
3. I tried nail polish remover with acetone. No luck.
4. I went to WM and bought full strength acetone $11.50, and a butane micro-torch $22.00. No luck
5. I checked the screw tightness with a fat wrench, in excess of 40 inch-pounds.
Well, the screws look like [email protected] I can't get them out and I am thoroughly disgusted, I haven't even loaded a magazine.

Thoughts??? Now I ask
 

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Springfield Armory customer service is pretty good, so I'd give them a holler. You might have to send the slide to them to have them remove the screws.

I actually had the same thing happen with my Beretta APX RDO I recently picked up. The cover plate screws used a regular hex wrench (2mm). One came out easily, the other was stuck and I rounded off the inside of the screw head. Used a heat gun and everything. My last ditch effort was with a tiny Craftsman easy-out set (screw extractor) that I picked up from Sears before they closed their doors here a while back. Luckily, it worked or I'd be sending it back, too. So, one screw is destroyed, but I'm not terribly concerned as I plan on always having some type of optic mounted.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, though about removing with a screw extractor. I going to call Springfield on Monday. My first Springfield, rethinking the Glock 40 now. Thanks
 

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I have Glock 40 . I was mounting my vortex plate and got one screw out second one stripped the head. I was pisssed. Callled glock and explained it had blue locktight on one screw. They said they didn't at factory. I took to my gun to my gun Smith. He drilled old screw out. Didn't charge me. Gun was new. Good luck. I also tried heat to loosen but no luck.
 

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Purchased a 10mm OSP with Vortex red Dot about 2 months+/- ago. Today I had time to take the plate off and install the red dot. I wasn't happening.
1. I tried to take the screws out with the supplied wrench in the case. NO luck.
2. I tried the soldering iron to heat the screw locking compound. No luck.
3. I tried nail polish remover with acetone. No luck.
4. I went to WM and bought full strength acetone $11.50, and a butane micro-torch $22.00. No luck
5. I checked the screw tightness with a fat wrench, in excess of 40 inch-pounds.
Well, the screws look like [email protected] I can't get them out and I am thoroughly disgusted, I haven't even loaded a magazine.

Thoughts??? Now I ask
Hope everything got worked out. I had the same problem when I bought my XDM-10 OSP. I called Springfield and the sent me a label and I returned the handgun to then to fix it. I don’t know how they removed the stick screws, but they did and had my gun back to me within 5 business days completely fixed. I did however replaced all the cheap screws with quality steel screws and used my torque wrench to ensure they we’re installed and set correctly
 

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Your problem is likely that by the time you use the right tool which is that micro torch, you had likely stripped the screw enough that you cannot get a grip. When doing this type of stuff, always assume they are Loctite in which means you use a pencil torch and heat the hell out of it before you try, if you don't, this is usually what will happen.
 

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I had a the exact same issue with my brand new 10mm osp .the supplies torque wrench felt very sloppy so I used my Snap-On on torque bit and one screw came out but the other two stripped .i drilled them out myself and was surprised by how soft the metal was used to makes these screws .once I drilled the heads off I slid the plate off and used some pliers to grab the remaining screw and was able to unscrew them .the next issue was with the Trijicon SRO sight , the screws they send with the sight are two long and bottom on the slide way before tightening the sight down , Trijicon offers the screws in a kit for the xdm osp and glock mos for $19.99 plus $10.00 shipping .i ordered them two weeks ago and there still not here .last week i took the two screws that came with SRO and milled them down to fit .Everything turned out great but there was a lot more work involved than there needed to be especially considering the price of the gun and sight .
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So, I received my gun back from (3 weeks) Springfield and all was well until I ran into those long screws for the Vortex. I started to cut them down with a Dremel cutoff blade and said "to hell with this" ran the True Value and bought some small metric washers Problem solved for now. Fyi the screws are metric. In the meantime purchased an SR1911 in 10mm...all is right with the world...for now.
 

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Are you sure that you are turning the wrench the right way. You have to turn it counter clockwise to loosen the screws.
 

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Are you sure that you are turning the wrench the right way. You have to turn it counter clockwise to loosen the screws.
Thanks for that info, Mr. Helper. Now, maybe you could help with this, (1) I am trying to load the pistol but I can't push the bullets into the front of the pistol and (2) how do I get them to turn around and come back the other way?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Are you sure that you are turning the wrench the right way. You have to turn it counter clockwise to loosen the screws.
Thanks for that info, Mr. Helper. Now, maybe you could help with this, (1) I am trying to load the pistol but I can't push the bullets into the front of the pistol and (2) how do I get them to turn around and come back the other way?
 

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Mine were pretty tight, one especially was a little stubborn. But I was able to get them out with out any special tricks or destroying the screws. I had shot several hundred round through my xd before I decided to install a red dot. You said in your post that your screws were damaged now and you haven't even loaded a mag yet. I wonder if the guys who have issues with getting the plate off is in guns that haven't been shot much yet? A couple heat cycles on the gun probably makes the difference?

As for the screws that comes with the Vortex. Yeah just grind them down a hair. I screwed them into one of the plates filed the ends down. Then unscrewed them from the plate. Easy way to clean up the threads if needed.
 

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Mine were pretty tight, one especially was a little stubborn. But I was able to get them out with out any special tricks or destroying the screws. I had shot several hundred round through my xd before I decided to install a red dot. You said in your post that your screws were damaged now and you haven't even loaded a mag yet. I wonder if the guys who have issues with getting the plate off is in guns that haven't been shot much yet? A couple heat cycles on the gun probably makes the difference?

As for the screws that comes with the Vortex. Yeah just grind them down a hair. I screwed them into one of the plates filed the ends down. Then unscrewed them from the plate. Easy way to clean up the threads if needed.
I think you might be on track. In hindsight, I should have used a heat gun on the slide before attempting to remove the screws. In my case, That might have prevented stripping the screws. Regardless, Springfield was very responsive and turned around my gun in about two weeks after they removed the stripped screws and replaced them. On my second 10mm OSP I was more attentive and did use a heat gun to remove the factory plate screws. I’ve since replaced all the factory screws with new steel screws.
 

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My go to with stuck bolts is the freezer. Put the entire slide in the freezer for about 1/2hr. The cold will shrink the metal enough to separate the threads.
 

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I had this same problem with my XDM Elite OSP 9mm, and solved it at home. Here’s my experience, solution, and tools used.

Tools
Hand drill
Drill bits - 1/8, 1/16, 5/32
Screw extractor - #1
Wet paper towel to clean metal shavings from the slide after each drill

Well Crap 🤦‍♂️
All of my screws very tight, very unnecessary imo for such soft screws, and they were locktighted (I bought it brand new, had to be done by the factory). I got the first two screws out using a T10 screwdriver and applying a ton of pressure to try and not strip them. Well, my third stripped, and there was no going back, so I decided to try and hand-drill it myself (in 2 steps). Please first note this needs to be done slowly and carefully or you risk losing your center and being too close to the threads in step 2.

Step 1: Remove the head
For this I used a combination of 3 drill bits.
1/8 to bore out the screw head
1/16 to drill through the center and weaken the space between the head and the screw (this bit fits into the screw hole)
5/32 to take out as much of the head as possible
I used the 1/8 first until the head was a clean bowl, then alternated the 1/16 and 5/32, just taking off a little at a time. Finally at one point while using the 5/32, it grabbed the head and twisted right off. The cover plate came off and I was left with the screw. It was sticking out just a hair, but not enough to grab and twist with pliers, so I moved to extracting it.

Step 2: Extract the Screw
For this you need the 1/16 bit from before, and a #1 screw extractor bit. With the 1/16 but, you want to very carefully drill some ways into the screw. Go slow, and if at any point you see a thread I would stop immediately and have a professional take over. Once you’ve gone down about a nickel coin thickness, swap to the extractor. With the drill in reverse and applying plenty of downward pressure, drill into the screw. If you‘ve made enough room (surface area) for the extractor to grab onto, it’ll back right out. At least mine did lol 🤷‍♂️

Pictures of the plate after removal, and end product/success, below. Good luck, hope it helps!
EC7E3C37-65DB-4E61-9B02-EC756FC4E6F2.jpeg
3181268D-E60D-4A51-80F4-C1922D08AB00.jpeg
 
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