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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone use Simple Green in their ultrasonic cleaning machine. Seems like it would be okay watered down. However, I dont want to damage/discolor any of my handguns or bolts.

I have no problems springing for the gallon for L&R lubricating solution on Midway, but they only have the Gallon ($49) of the cleaning/degreasing solution. BTW, that gallon makes 11 gallons of cleaner and I just don't need that much.:rolleyes:

So I'm looking for a substitute cleaner/degreaser that will do it's job but not damage anything.
I thought about just using Hoppes #9 for the solution, guess that wouldn't hurt anything, any thoughts?

Either that, or if someone wants to split an order with me on the L&R brand ultrasonic cleaning solutions??
 

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i use this
Mirachem Gun Cleaner Degreaser

it works GREAT you can request a sample from their site. they sent em a GALLON as a sample. i just mix it 50/50 with water. it will disolve lead but not aluminum. i then pour it into a contain and let the solids sink and pour the clear liquid off on top and reuse it. i havent had to use a new batch yet im still using the first tank full.

it is great stuff and i highly recomend it. I have been told that regular parts washing fluid works great but i have never used it.
 

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also just pain dish soap on warm water does a good job just make sure to get all the water off. i usually wash the parts in HOT water and then blow dry parts after and then oil them. that being said the liquid i posted earlier works much better but to make it last longer i usually clean with soad and water first to get the easy stuff off. that way i get less crap in my good cleaner
 

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on ething with ultrasonic cleaners is you have to make sure what your using is the right dencity. if it is not then the frequency of vibrations wont cause the cavitation effect and will render it useless.

I use ultrasonics as one of the steps in sterilization of piercing equiptment, I never thought of just dropping my gun parts in there.
 

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on ething with ultrasonic cleaners is you have to make sure what your using is the right dencity. if it is not then the frequency of vibrations wont cause the cavitation effect and will render it useless.

I use ultrasonics as one of the steps in sterilization of piercing equiptment, I never thought of just dropping my gun parts in there.
stick your finger in and you will know whether or not it is working. you just need something to break the surface tention of the water or cleaning liquid. dish soap like i said does a pretty good job for most things. but doesnt do anything to remove lead
 

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I'm not fond of Simple Green. It's not nice to some metals and if there is any adhesive or even sight locking (Loctite), it could dissolve it. I use Fantastik in a 50% solution with distilled water. No noxious fumes like the other volatile mixes with Kerosene etc. Fantiastik works fantastically in the 2.5 Litre ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight.

This US unit has a tank that's 9.25" long x 5.25" wide x 3 inches deep at max fluid level. One should be able to fit just about any pistol slide in there and you can put it diagonally to gain another half inch. For the frame and associated parts, just dunk the thing upside down (you want the dirt to fall out anyway). An XD Sub-Compact will fit with the lid on, but any other frame will likely need the lid off - it works fine either way.

You'll need an air compressor with at least 100lbs of air, but you may be able to get away with canned "duster" air from Walmart ($5) to get the moisture out of the nooks and crannies. I cleaned my 1971 Ruger in this and saw metal that I'd not seen since '75! Really remarkable.

If you've done a crayon job on your engravings, plan on doing it over again. Proof positive that this thing gets EVERYTHING off your parts. I run it an eight minute cycle with heat. If there's anything left after that, another run without heat will get it. I'm sold. I would not clean my weapon every time with this, but for a bi-monthly or so super clean, this is the way to go. The odor is suitable for indoor use too.



 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I had not had any issues with Simple Green doing any damage to the few weapons I've placed in it. What metals does it react negative to? I used it on a chrome Kahr slide and the slide of my factory blued HK P7 PSP.

I found if you place the parts on tin foil and place it in a 200 degree oven, the nooks dry up pretty quickly. Compressor works very well as you also said.

Luckily I airbrushed a clear coat of my color jobs, so they are as permanent as you can get!

also, Thank to SourPatch. i contacted MiraChem and they sent me a full gallon of cleaner at no charge! cant beat that deal!

I'm thinking of getting a second ultrasonic cleaner to be dedicated to lubrication. Haven't made up my mind on that yet, but it would be useful for AR bolt carrier cleanings.

I'm not fond of Simple Green. It's not nice to some metals and if there is any adhesive or even sight locking (Loctite), it could dissolve it. I use Fantastik in a 50% solution with distilled water. No noxious fumes like the other volatile mixes with Kerosene etc. Fantiastik works fantastically in the 2.5 Litre ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight.

This US unit has a tank that's 9.25" long x 5.25" wide x 3 inches deep at max fluid level. One should be able to fit just about any pistol slide in there and you can put it diagonally to gain another half inch. For the frame and associated parts, just dunk the thing upside down (you want the dirt to fall out anyway). An XD Sub-Compact will fit with the lid on, but any other frame will likely need the lid off - it works fine either way.

You'll need an air compressor with at least 100lbs of air, but you may be able to get away with canned "duster" air from Walmart ($5) to get the moisture out of the nooks and crannies. I cleaned my 1971 Ruger in this and saw metal that I'd not seen since '75! Really remarkable.

If you've done a crayon job on your engravings, plan on doing it over again. Proof positive that this thing gets EVERYTHING off your parts. I run it an eight minute cycle with heat. If there's anything left after that, another run without heat will get it. I'm sold. I would not clean my weapon every time with this, but for a bi-monthly or so super clean, this is the way to go. The odor is suitable for indoor use too.



 

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Simple green: I've had problems with alloy wheels and losing adhesive weights on my motorcycles. It definitely does not like aluminum, but there may or may not be an alloy in a firearm which could react. Certainly not a scientific survey on my part, but once I lost a $330 wheel, that was it for me & Simple Green.

YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary)

Clear coat? Flat? Satin? My XD slide finish is temperamental. Even have to scrub off the "wax job" that the crayon leaves around the engravings. Too shiny. I like the tactical satin. I'll take your word that it protects the wax, but I probably won't airbrush my slide anytime soon. The wax job is too easy to do plus, if you use a heat gun, you can do the whole slide in one pass and stuff it in the freezer. Little danger of discoloration.

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Moly Resin bake on clear coat satin. Self lubricating now, so it really doesn't even need cleaned, just wipe it with a rag:D:oops:

What was the concentration ration of the Simple Green that damaged your auto parts?

Does the Fantastik leave a film behind, or does it rinse off easily?
 

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If you've done a crayon job on your engravings, plan on doing it over again.
Sorry if this is off topic... but what is a crayon job on engravings? Do you really use a crayon to color those things in? Sorry if I am asking a dumb question, I am just ignorant on this subject and have never heard of it before.

Thanks for the explaination - and if you want to PM be instead of posting it feel free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry if this is off topic... but what is a crayon job on engravings? Do you really use a crayon to color those things in? Sorry if I am asking a dumb question, I am just ignorant on this subject and have never heard of it before.

Thanks for the explaination - and if you want to PM be instead of posting it feel free.
You see the engravings on your pistol that say "XD45" "springfield armory USA" "XD" and the springfield logo on the top of the slide?
lots of people like to color in these engravings to add to and break up the solid black color. Like this:



I use a lacquer stick that is specifically made for firearms. I used silver on this XD.
Other people use crayons, still others use nail polish. If you're not careful they can get washed off when using firearm solvents and cleaners (Hoppes #9, BreakFree, etc...).
The lacquer stick I use will not just rinse away, it 'dries' just like other paints. You could get it off if you really wanted to, but you'd have to scrub it with a tooth brush or the likes and it would still be difficult to remove.

If you go to the "search" icon in the top right corner of the forum page and type in "color your engravings" you will see a long thread where people have colored and explained how/what they did to color their firearms. I think it's a sticky and worth checking out, just to see the variety.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
How did you get the flames on the slide or did you use the lacquer stick for that as well? It's amazing!
An XDTalk member did it, I think it's acid etched or something like that.

Also, I have a clear coat of Moly Resin airbrushed on the slide to give that dark wet look to the XD.

It also makes clean up a breexze as it's self lubricating, everything just wipes off. I swear, it's a slick as teflon coated skillet:mrgreen:
 

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I didn't notice the wet look- I thought it was just the light, but now that you mention it.

That is the best looking slide I've seen. I just noticed that you don't have a front sight?

Sorry to hijack the thread. To get things back on track- I have an ultrasonic cleaner, although I haven't used it for firearms yet. For everything else, I use Simple Green, but just about any detergent/dish soap will work. You don't need a lot either- 1 part in 10 will clean just about anything. The ultrasonic cleaner does the work, while the detergent just keeps the dirt from getting redeposited.

For small parts, you can put them in a glass or metal container and suspend it in the ultrasonic cleaner. Plastic doesn't work as well as it tends to absorb the ultrasonic waves.

I was told not to put any flammable liquids in the ultrasonic cleaner since the microscopic cavitation increases the temperature and could cause the liquid to ignite.

Lastly, don't put your fingers in it while it's on, especially your trigger finger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Someone put a post on this forum or another one about Simple Green and Kimbers. They don't play well with each other.
Glad I read that, I'd hate to ruin my Kimber.

I always put my finger in the bath while it's running:shock:

I once put MEK in it to clean the gunk off of surplus AK mags....it basically melted the plastic:rolleyes:
 

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If you go to the "search" icon in the top right corner of the forum page and type in "color your engravings" you will see a long thread where people have colored and explained how/what they did to color their firearms. I think it's a sticky and worth checking out, just to see the variety.
Thanks a bunch for the search terms... I am thinking about polishing some of the parts (barrel, slide release, disassembly lever, etc.) on my XD(M) and silver or possibly some other color may look pretty sweet if I do the engravings. Thanks for the help!
 
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