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It works fine.

Plenty of woefully uninformed folks will try and tell you that the steel cases will damage your extractor (it won't) or bore (it also won't). Some people will bitch that it's dirty, but so what...I've put over 500 rounds of Wolf (same ammo, different name) through a Glock 21 in a single day class, and it was a non-issue. If you're gonna clean your gun after you shoot it anyway, what's the huhu?
 

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As cuda says the ammo is fine. You'll get your ammo snobs who'll say (in my best girl voice imitation) "Eww it's dirty". I don't see it being any dirtier than WWB and the way I see it if you don't want your gun to get dirty, don't shoot it.
 

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Yea it is a little dirty but works just fine...it is pretty much all I use at the range since it is so cheap...and I already clean my guns after every trip so no big deal...if the price fits go for it....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It works fine.

Plenty of woefully uninformed folks will try and tell you that the steel cases will damage your extractor (it won't) or bore (it also won't). Some people will bitch that it's dirty, but so what...I've put over 500 rounds of Wolf (same ammo, different name) through a Glock 21 in a single day class, and it was a non-issue. If you're gonna clean your gun after you shoot it anyway, what's the huhu?
Thanks. According to Tulammousa.com Tula Ammo is not Wolf.


Dear Great TULAMMO USA Customer,

In connection with our ongoing promotion and support of TULAMMO products, we want to be sure that all of our customers are aware of the types of ammunition being supplied in the U.S. from the Tula and Ulyanovsk Cartridge Works in Russia. TULAMMO USA was formed for the sole purpose of distributing the TULAMMO brand of ammunition from these two factories. The Tula and Ulyanovsk Cartridge Works no longer support or produce any of the “Wolf” brands of ammunition. Please note that:

TULAMMO is not WOLF Performance Ammunition
TULAMMO is not WOLF Military Classic Ammunition
TULAMMO is not WOLF GOLD Ammunition
TULAMMO is not WPA (WOLF Performance Ammunition)
TULAMMO is not WPA (WOLF Performance Ammunition) Military Classic
TULAMMO is not Wolf Performance Primers

Our primary goal is to support the highest quality ammunition provided by these two factories under the TULAMMO brand. We expect nothing but the best during the performance of our ammunition products. To order TULAMMO products, and for any questions about TULAMMO, please contact us at 888-317-5810. We also can be reached via email at [email protected].

Thank you,

TULAMMO USA
Looks like the factories produced Wolf at one time but no longer do. I would imagine that in the end, the two brand are so close it doesn't really make a difference. I'm very new to firearms and from what I have read online ammo brand and for that matter, firearm brand and type, is extremely subjective to the user. some people are just brand loyalists. Some read way to much into numbers. I have formed the opinion that each person should formulate there own opinion. And then plaster it all over the web ;). So, I will try different brands of ammunition, decide which I like and which performs the best for me and my weapon. Of course I will let you know what I like. :D

Thanks everybody.
 

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Shoot it. It runs good in my XD.
 

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as they say it is a bit dirtier, and has a little different smell when fired, But it ran just a good through the XD as remington, or WWB.. good stuff.

TulAmmo Review | Tula Ammo Cartridge Works

here is a write up for you to checkout if in any doubt..
 

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If you shoot at an indoor range I would advise checking with them about using it. Our range & many others will not allow steel cased / bi-metal ammo due to the risk of fire.
 

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If you shoot at an indoor range I would advise checking with them about using it. Our range & many others will not allow steel cased / bi-metal ammo due to the risk of fire.
risk of fire??? how in the world would that happen?? i know the shells are hot after firing, but i wouldn't think them to be any hotter that brass..

i think it has to do with them being able to reuse for their reloads, but thats just me..
 

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hmm.. Im new to all of this but what I have heard is that you dont shoot steel cases in the XDMs but in glocks or in a XD its fine.

I dont know and can only share what I have heard. Part of what I heard was listed above with the steel being able to damage the bore and other things I have heard were the coatings on the steel can cause problems.

I dont think I worry about "dirt" but I do want reliability out of my guns. I just bought 10 packs of 100 round WWB to replenish my supply and figured the cost difference was $1.03 per 100 for the brass cased WWB over the cheaper TULAmmo.

If anyone could shed some light on the steel cases and their coatings and whatnot, I would appreciate it.
 

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If you shoot at an indoor range I would advise checking with them about using it. Our range & many others will not allow steel cased / bi-metal ammo due to the risk of fire.

Fire is not it, it is more to do with the range selling the uncollected brass. If there is steel mixed in there, that could be bad.

Word has it that our local range makes enough off of brass and lead to cover the bills.
 

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hmm.. Im new to all of this but what I have heard is that you dont shoot steel cases in the XDMs but in glocks or in a XD its fine.

I dont know and can only share what I have heard. Part of what I heard was listed above with the steel being able to damage the bore and other things I have heard were the coatings on the steel can cause problems.

I dont think I worry about "dirt" but I do want reliability out of my guns. I just bought 10 packs of 100 round WWB to replenish my supply and figured the cost difference was $1.03 per 100 for the brass cased WWB over the cheaper TULAmmo.

If anyone could shed some light on the steel cases and their coatings and whatnot, I would appreciate it.[/QUOTE]

in the write up i posted they tell you what the coating is...

there are many of us that have ran this through our guns and have had no issues..

As to the loading in the mag, they got kinda sticky but it wasn't anything to release the pressure and push back on them to get them to load the rest in.
 

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hmm.. Im new to all of this but what I have heard is that you dont shoot steel cases in the XDMs but in glocks or in a XD its fine.

I dont know and can only share what I have heard. Part of what I heard was listed above with the steel being able to damage the bore and other things I have heard were the coatings on the steel can cause problems.

I dont think I worry about "dirt" but I do want reliability out of my guns. I just bought 10 packs of 100 round WWB to replenish my supply and figured the cost difference was $1.03 per 100 for the brass cased WWB over the cheaper TULAmmo.

If anyone could shed some light on the steel cases and their coatings and whatnot, I would appreciate it.
Sigh.

"What you heard" is what I would refer to as woefully uninformed...whoever told you that didn't know what they were talking about, period.

The jacket on most Russian ammo is bimetal--that is, a copper wash over mild steel. The copper is what comes in contact with your barrel, and is the exact same copper that they make regular jacketed bullets out of. It will NOT damage your bore any more than regular ammo.

And, there's absolutely no good reason whatsoever not to use it in your XD and not your XDm. See the above paragraph as to the why.

As to ranges not allowing steel because of the cases...if your range isn't smart enough, or too damn cheap to by a friggin' magnet...find a new range.
 

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Sigh.

"What you heard" is what I would refer to as woefully uninformed...whoever told you that didn't know what they were talking about, period.

The jacket on most Russian ammo is bimetal--that is, a copper wash over mild steel. The copper is what comes in contact with your barrel, and is the exact same copper that they make regular jacketed bullets out of. It will NOT damage your bore any more than regular ammo.

And, there's absolutely no good reason whatsoever not to use it in your XD and not your XDm. See the above paragraph as to the why.

As to ranges not allowing steel because of the cases...if your range isn't smart enough, or too damn cheap to by a friggin' magnet...find a new range.
Yes yes. Bimetal is actually more than just a copper washed steel jacket. Everyone needs to research three layer bimetal. It is actually two layers of copper over a very very soft steel. The result is a jacket of extreme consistancy. I have some Geco 9x19mm with bimetal jackets and it is one of the most accurate rounds from my XD9. I shoot bimetal S&B from my 7.65Br Keltec and get the smallest groups with it. However Tula uses full copper jackets on their 9x19mm and 5.56 ammo. I dont know about 40 or 45 but putting a magnet to it will tell you real fast if it is or isn't.

Steel cases are very very soft, otherwise it would not expand under pressure to seal the chamber when it fires. It in no way will damage the ordinance grade steel of any firearm. The coating has problems with people who over lube the gun or leave oil in the barrel. get it a little hot and the oil and heat will turn the coating into a goo thet will harden as it cools. So the real problem is abuse of the weapon from over lube. I prefer a copper washed case over the coated ones because it protects the case, not just coat it.

Steel cases do not damage weapons. the operator of said weapons damage them through some other kind of abuse, then blame the steel cases.......
 

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However Tula uses full copper jackets on their 9x19mm and 5.56 ammo. I dont know about 40 or 45 but putting a magnet to it will tell you real fast if it is or isn't.
Boris.....is your Tula marked as 5.56mm or are you just using the term loosely? I ask because I've only found Tula in .223 Rem loading. A year ago, Cabela's was carrying it....I wish they still did. Near the end, they were selling it for $3.49 per box (20) which was cheaper than I could reload my own brass. Then....toss in a coupon for $XX off and the price just got better. I bought a bunch but wish I had gotten more.

I'm not sure about your Tula that you may be using in your AR, but a magnet very much sticks to the bullet (and obviously the case) in the rounds I have.

I enjoy shooting it....works great for the 3 to 50 yd drills I use it for. I get about 4 MOA at 100 yards, which is good enough for most of my practice sessions. When pushing past 100, I'll switch to a brand (or use my reloads) that perform better.
 

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Boris.....is your Tula marked as 5.56mm or are you just using the term loosely? I ask because I've only found Tula in .223 Rem loading. A year ago, Cabela's was carrying it....I wish they still did. Near the end, they were selling it for $3.49 per box (20) which was cheaper than I could reload my own brass. Then....toss in a coupon for $XX off and the price just got better. I bought a bunch but wish I had gotten more.

I'm not sure about your Tula that you may be using in your AR, but a magnet very much sticks to the bullet (and obviously the case) in the rounds I have.

I enjoy shooting it....works great for the 3 to 50 yd drills I use it for. I get about 4 MOA at 100 yards, which is good enough for most of my practice sessions. When pushing past 100, I'll switch to a brand (or use my reloads) that perform better.

Its been about 6 years since I last bought and shot the 223 (you are right, I slipped and called it 5.56). The 55 grain Tula I used to shoot did have a full copper jacket. Only thing I hated about it was the bright fireball in full daylight it belched. they may use different projectiles now, I dont know. It was decent from the SAR3 I had........
 

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Sounds as though they have changed the recipe a bit on the .223 ammo. Aside from a magnet being able to pick up the round by the bullet tip, I've not noticed any daytime muzzle flash. Haven't used it for any night shoots since we can't use bi-metallic or steel core bullets at the training range.

Thanks for the feedback.
 
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