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Discussion Starter #1
I have an XDm 3.8 and sent it to Springer Precision to have a trigger job done. I'd like to take up a little bit more of the pretravel, as it still seems like a long trigger pull. I don't need to lighten the pull weight up anymore, just reduce some of the pretravel.

Any suggestions on how to do this?
 

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The Powder River Precision kit worked wonders for eliminating pretravel. Might check them out. I would have my xdm no other way.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Eliminates more pretravel than the Springer kit they installed?

Thanks for the thought, but I am wondering if this is something I can fix without putting more money into it? If not, which trigger part deals with the trigger pretravel (vs. pull weight, overtravel/reset, etc...)?
 

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If you think the xdm 3.8 has a lot of travel; you should try the Ruger P89 in double-action mode. You need to pack a lunch. It takes forever to pull it before the weapon discharges.
 

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This might be hard to explain but bare with me. If you take the slide off the gun, pull the trigger a few times, but pay attention to the trigger bar. There is the high spot on the bar that the slide contacts to reset it, when you are slowly pulling the trigger forward, watch when that spot moves away from the frame. Keep pulling until you can feel and see the sear start to move. Now you will notice a gap between that high spot on the trigger bar, and the frame. When I fitted my trigger bar, I took to much off of that high spot and ended up with a lot of pre-travel, so what I did to make up for it, is that I cut a few plastic shims from a plastic packaging of some kind, and super glued them to the frame. Now when the trigger bar comes back, it has less distance to go, therefore less pre-travel. I have absolutely no pre-travel in my gun now. The big thing you want to make sure of though, is that your bar resets when you let go, adding those shims might not let it come back. Doing that made me have to modify my trigger safety also, because of how far back that put the trigger. I have examined my gun for countless hours trying to get the most out of it. If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, then leave it alone, or send it to a qualified gunsmith. I would be willing to bet that springer got the most out of it that they could, so I would recommend leaving it alone, or you could very easily mess the gun up and it wouldn't be functional.
 

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This might be hard to explain but bare with me. If you take the slide off the gun, pull the trigger a few times, but pay attention to the trigger bar. There is the high spot on the bar that the slide contacts to reset it, when you are slowly pulling the trigger forward, watch when that spot moves away from the frame. Keep pulling until you can feel and see the sear start to move. Now you will notice a gap between that high spot on the trigger bar, and the frame. When I fitted my trigger bar, I took to much off of that high spot and ended up with a lot of pre-travel, so what I did to make up for it, is that I cut a few plastic shims from a plastic packaging of some kind, and super glued them to the frame. Now when the trigger bar comes back, it has less distance to go, therefore less pre-travel. I have absolutely no pre-travel in my gun now. The big thing you want to make sure of though, is that your bar resets when you let go, adding those shims might not let it come back. Doing that made me have to modify my trigger safety also, because of how far back that put the trigger. I have examined my gun for countless hours trying to get the most out of it. If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, then leave it alone, or send it to a qualified gunsmith. I would be willing to bet that springer got the most out of it that they could, so I would recommend leaving it alone, or you could very easily mess the gun up and it wouldn't be functional.
I'm glad that worked for ya and this is by no means a post to put down your work or you. I would not put plastic I cut from a package and install it into my gun. We are taking about something that you put your life on. There are other options and yes you will have to pay for them but it is made for you needs and not that much if you compare it to your life. Again I do not mean any disrespect to you are your work.
 

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If you all ready have a Spring trigger job on the gun you can't put a Powder River kit in it.

Call Scott and ask him about removing more pretravel.
 

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If you all ready have a Spring trigger job on the gun you can't put a Powder River kit in it.

Call Scott and ask him about removing more pretravel.
Good point. Didn't even think about that.
 

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I can be done but you need to have a very good understanding of how the gun works, how the safetys work and some good mechanical skills. Metal working, etc...
 

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I'm glad that worked for ya and this is by no means a post to put down your work or you. I would not put plastic I cut from a package and install it into my gun. We are taking about something that you put your life on. There are other options and yes you will have to pay for them but it is made for you needs and not that much if you compare it to your life. Again I do not mean any disrespect to you are your work.
I understand, this is not a gun I use to put my life on. I have others for that and by no means would I do something like that. It sounds "hilbilly", but believe me, I measured this stuff to exact dimensions. Its not like I just cut plastic and threw it in there. This is my competition gun, and I put several hundred rounds through it a week, if not more. No hiccups here. I have a little video on my trigger pull. I know it sounds like I am just rigging this gun up, but it is very functional, and very fast. As you can see from the looks of it, I do not intend on going back to stock, which is why I have done these modifications.

XDM Trigger Pull

I can be done but you need to have a very good understanding of how the gun works, how the safetys work and some good mechanical skills. Metal working, etc...
What he said, if you don't know how each any every part of the gun works, don't do anything.
 

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I understand, this is not a gun I use to put my life on. I have others for that and by no means would I do something like that. It sounds "hilbilly", but believe me, I measured this stuff to exact dimensions. Its not like I just cut plastic and threw it in there. This is my competition gun, and I put several hundred rounds through it a week, if not more. No hiccups here. I have a little video on my trigger pull. I know it sounds like I am just rigging this gun up, but it is very functional, and very fast. As you can see from the looks of it, I do not intend on going back to stock, which is why I have done these modifications.

XDM Trigger Pull



What he said, if you don't know how each any every part of the gun works, don't do anything.
Cool. I didnt want my post to sound like I was being a pecker head or a troll. lol

btw Nice gun.
 
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