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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just grabbed a Rock Island 1911, and am having trouble with the barrel bushing. It's hard as hell to move, I have to force it against something to get it anywhere. Wasn't too bad to swing it out, but I can't see how I'm going to get it back in place while holding the damn gudie rod in there...

FWIW it's got a full length guide rod. What can I do to free it up a bit?
 

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You can lube it up, or use a tool like a bushing wrench or a spent 45 casing, after it breaks in a bit it gets easier to remove and to twist just using moderate force.
 

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When you reassemble, put a little grease on the outside of the bushing, and the little nub that olds it in the slide. That will make it much easier to disassemble next time.
 

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Congrats on your purchase I too just got a tactical and I heard the FLGR is a pain! But like the other replies, the wrench is the key ;)
 

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Yeah, guess I'll have to get the wrench. I can get it out fine...but putting it back is different. I've got 4 or 5 holes in my ceiling now :oops:

Is there even any benefit to using a FLGR? I guess it looks a little nicer...
It's supposed to stop spring bind. Jim Clark of Clark Custom would only use them in custom builds if the customer demanded it. They are not necessary.
 

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.... I can't see how I'm going to get it back in place while holding the damn gudie rod in there...

FWIW it's got a full length guide rod. What can I do to free it up a bit?
I can't picture what you are doing.....the bushing should go onto the slide BEFORE you put the guide rod in.

Get the barrel in the slide first, then then put the bushing on. Then run the recoil spring into position. Then after the spring is on top of the barrel (slide is upside down), turn the bushing through the spring to the other side of the spring....then make sure you have the slide FORWARD and get the end cap over the spring from the outside and depress the end cap and turn the bushing into position to lock the end cap down - (Here's where you might need to use a bushing wrench to get the bushing over the end cap). Last step, put the guide rod in - there should be NO TENSION on anything at this point...in fact you can choose to leave the guide rod out if you want (you'll just have a hole beneath the barrel if you don't have a "GI plug").

Yeah, guess I'll have to get the wrench. I can get it out fine...but putting it back is different. I've got 4 or 5 holes in my ceiling now :oops:

Is there even any benefit to using a FLGR? I guess it looks a little nicer...
As above...if you have holes in your ceiling, it shouldn't have anything to do with the bushing and DEFINITELY doesn't have anything to do with the FLGR!!!

There's two supposed benefits to the FLGR (plus looks). One, it make the gun a bit more muzzle heavy which some people prefer...less muzzle rise, theoretically make the gun faster to get back on target. Two..the spring won't bind against the inside of the slide.

I always tell people who think the FLRG is a pain the same thing....yeah, it takes a few extra seconds to field strip and reassemble than without it. And you need the allen wrench to get if off and back on. But try this...put the gun together both with and without the FLGR. Make sure the gun is not loaded, and no magazine so the slide does not lock back. Then using your hands, pull the slide back several times....at first (when the slide is almost all the way forward) you'll feel a bit of a "hitch" as you hit the "hammer rail" (different people call it different things..the piece that cocks the hammer - easy to see - it's right behind the rear of the barrel when the barrel is in the slide) - on top of the hammer rail is the disconnect. You'll feel another one when the slide is close to being all the way back as the slide catches the disconnect.

So try to just pull the slide back (and let it go slowly forward) in between having it in battery and having it fully back. (so you are in the "sweet spot" where you are not getting the "hitch" from the hammer rail and the disconnect at the beginning and end of the motion of the slide).... Do this a bunch of times. You'll feel a big difference. Or at least I do. With the FLGR, the thing feels "Rolls Royce" SMOOTH.... With the FLGR out, completely different...you can feel the spring hitch and catch and just not feel smooth. Does it make any difference in performance? I don't know. But I like when things feel smooth. The FLGR does that and does it very well. If it makes no difference to you, then just buy a GI plug and you are in business. (Or use what you have and just live with a little hole beneath the barrel and a sharp edge on the end cap rather than the smooth GI plug).

But the issue you are talking about....having holes in your ceiling? That has nothing to do with a FLGR. My guess is you are trying to put the bushing on after the end cap (which is impossible) or you don't have the slide all the way FORWARD making it necessary to try and compress the recoil spring a lot more than you need to.

I bet a lot of people try and get the end cap on the spring when the slide is back...why? 'Cause that's where it is when you get the slide stop (slide release is the wrong term, but often used) back through to lock the slide to the frame. You have to push the slide forward or you'll have too much spring to compress. Until you get the bushing over the end cap, the slide won't move without you putting it where you want it. Once it's on, "voila"...the slide will go forward into battery (if it doesn't, it means you missed the link and need to start over - if you are doing that, you need to read the directions which you probably should be doing anyway...could have saved me a lot of typing! LOL :D

PS: Hard to tell, but the picture of the bushing wrench looks like it's metal. I'd get a plastic one.
Won't scratch anything and the thing I use it for mostly is once I have the bushing turned so it's over the end cap, there's a little circle of sharp metal that extends forward. This needs to be pressed down to get the bushing all the way over the end cap. I use the plastic bushing wrench to press down on that sharp metal...it's less painful than using my fingers. I think a metal bushing wrench might bend that small protrusion on the end cap. My fingers won't bend it, but pushing it with my fingers does hurt a little. Most sensitive part of the human body? The fingertips!

Hope this helps.

Peace,
D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It was the end cap being hurled into my ceiling. And I did have the bushing (and barrel) in place before trying to get the guide rod in place. But I needed two hands to try and lock the bushing in place, and one more to compress the end cap enough to have clearance...so you can see the problem. I ended up using my counter top to compress the end cap and held it with my leg, then swung the bushing back. Quite the circus act, but it worked.

The slide was also forward.
 

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It was the end cap being hurled into my ceiling. And I did have the bushing (and barrel) in place before trying to get the guide rod in place. But I needed two hands to try and lock the bushing in place, and one more to compress the end cap enough to have clearance...so you can see the problem. I ended up using my counter top to compress the end cap and held it with my leg, then swung the bushing back. Quite the circus act, but it worked.

The slide was also forward.
I've never seen a FLGR that used an end cap...are you sure its a full-length?
 

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Not all FLGR's require an allen key. Some are made a bit shorter, with a longer flange inside the bushing so that it will take apart the same as a one with the plug. The two piece rods are the ones that require the key.
 

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It was the end cap being hurled into my ceiling. And I did have the bushing (and barrel) in place before trying to get the guide rod in place. But I needed two hands to try and lock the bushing in place, and one more to compress the end cap enough to have clearance...so you can see the problem. I ended up using my counter top to compress the end cap and held it with my leg, then swung the bushing back. Quite the circus act, but it worked.

The slide was also forward.
I think you (would bet) you must not have locked the bushing into place. Once it's on the slide, turn it the other direction (past the opening). That will lock it onto the slide. You shouldn't have to hold it at all!

With the bushing locked down and the slide forward, you do have to press down on the end cap (which is over the spring), but only a short ways...there should be manageable pressure...certainly it would take NOTHING near the kind of effort you describe. And the bushing won't move at all once you turn it (with the bushing on one side of the spring hole it lets you take the bushing off and replace it - swivel it to the other side and it leaves room for the spring, the end cap and the guide rod, but the bushing itself is locked to the slide). Get the end cap down enough to so you can rotate the bushing back over the end cap (or part of it...the sharp part might still stick out a bit, but everything will hold in place - then if you don't want to push the sharp part with your fingers, use something flat to push it the rest of the way and trun the bushing into the fully closed (over the end cap) position. Then just drop the FLGR in and tighten it up, and it's done.

I can get my gun together in the same time as one with a GI plug plus maybe another 4 or 5 seconds to tighten the FLGR (I make SURE to keep the threads very DRY and clean so it does not unscrew itself as I have heard people have that problem. Never happened to me in (guessing) 3000 rounds?


Peace,
D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The problem isn't getting the spring/end cap pushed down far enough...it's getting the bushing to lock/unlock in place. It takes two hands (well, really a tool would be best...) to get enough force to swing it out so the end cap comes loose. The bushing will not move freely without a lot of leverage. Once the end cap is out and I've got it back in the "home" position it will freely swing the other way to remove the barrel.

I can field strip my springfield GI (with the shorty rod) just fine, no tools needed, the bushing pivots just fine when removing the end cap. This Rock Island has a lot of aftermarket parts, I'm figuring the bushing is as well and may not be quite right for the slide.
 

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OK, sounds like your bushing isn't fitted to the slide...shouldn't be a big deal if you have a pistol-smith in your area. If not, you could try taking a very fine jeweler's file and knock a bit off the nubs - that should make the thing turn without loosening the fit between the bushing and slide. That's if it's just the nubs.

If the outside diameter of the bushing is too big all around, unless you are willing to take a chance on messing it up, you could try to gradually bring it down a bit with some fine grit sandpaper. Don't mess with the slide...easier and cheaper to get another bushing.

But the way you are describing things something is way too tight. The bushing on my FLGR 1911 is very tight, but it swivels easily enough.

Yours doesn't swivel even if you just try putting it on the slide when the slide is off the frame, no barrel, no spring??? -

Best place to post your inquiry would probably be on the Highroad forum under "gunsmithing and repairs"...everything about the 1911 can be answered there by some of the top gunsmiths in the country (IMO).

Link: Gunsmithing and Repairs - THR

Give it a try...very helpful and knowledgeable guys. "1911Tuner" is maybe the best known, but there are a whole bunch of incredibly talented guys there with every answer imaginable.

Good luck.

Peace,
D.
 
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