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How does everyone feel about shooting streel casings out of their AR's. I recently bout some Tulammo for my 40 S&W and it shot great. With the .223 being only $5 a box I was wondering if I should give it a shot?
 

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Steel cased ammo.....I just finished a 4 day practical rifle course using it. I was shooting the steel cased Hornady 55 gr FMJ training ammo out of my M&P15. It did good enough for me to finish in the top 1%. I regularly practice at my local range with Tula and Wolf. I bought my last batch of Tula when Cabela's was selling it at $3.69 per box (last year).
 

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I was always told not to shoot the steel cased ammo in my AR. It would be good to hear what others are doing....

The points I picked up when I asked the same guestion was:

the lacquer gumming up the action
the steel cases also do not expand to form a tight seal in the chamber and can cause heavy fouling and over time erosion more than brass cased.
the steel cases are rough on extractors.
 

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I was always told not to shoot the steel cased ammo in my AR. It would be good to hear what others are doing....

The points I picked up when I asked the same guestion was:

the lacquer gumming up the action BS
the steel cases also do not expand AS MUCH AS BRASS to form a tight seal in the chamber and can cause heavy fouling and over time erosion more than brass cased. HOW MUCH TIME?
the steel cases are rough on extractors. MORE BS

My comments in red.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the comments guys. I think I will buy a box and try it out just to see

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
 

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I will shoot polymer coated steel, but not lacquer due to gumming.
 

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My comments in red.
What is the reason for steel casings, anyway? Cost? Availability of steel? Speed of loading?

Can it be assumed that steel ammo is not as consistent as brass rounds dimensionally? Could this cause problems in a tight chambered AR with cycling?
 

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Went to the range with my new AR yesterday. 100rds of brass and 100rds of steel. Gun didn't seem to know the difference, and except for taking the time to search for the brass casings, I didn't either. I don't reload yet, but got a bench at the end of the line and the brass was landing softly in the grass versus bouncing around and being trampled on the concrete so it was easy to recover.

Steel Monarch brand ammo is $5/20 at Academy, where the brass is $8/20. I'll shoot the steel from here out, but if they're out, it's not that much more for brass. I don't have some $2000 AR that's picky, just your everyday run of the mill Bushmaster.
 

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What is the reason for steel casings, anyway? Cost? Availability of steel? Speed of loading?

Can it be assumed that steel ammo is not as consistent as brass rounds dimensionally? Could this cause problems in a tight chambered AR with cycling?

Cost


The problem with steel casings and tight chambered AR's is the carbon build up will cause the cases to stick.
 

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I will shoot polymer coated steel, but not lacquer due to gumming.
Take a fired casing and put a blow torch on it.

Tell me how long it takes to "melt" that coating off of the casing. I think you'll be shocked.


The coatings do not come off in the chamber, due to lack of a good seal they have some blow-back residue build up around the casing in the chamber. This isn't the coating on the round, this is the dirty powder they typically use in steel cased ammunition.
 

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Steel is cheep, is all. The dimensions would have to be way off for there to be more than a little fouling from the nasty powder used in the cheap ammo. Fire the cheap stuff, clean more often, you should be fine. I'll stay with brass, and good powder, but that's just me.
 

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I bought a case of silver bear stuff (zinc coated steel) and so far, it's cycled flawlessly in my ar...not too bad in the accuracy dept either. My dad shoots wolf and Tula but they tend to be too dirty given the price of them ($4-5/box). I picked up the silver bear for cheap ($4.50/box). So far I've found it to be cleaner than the others.

In other words....if your ar will shoot it, fire away.
 

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the older stuff had a laquer coating and my stag did not like it......but have heard that the newer ammo is polymer coated and works much better....look up wolf on wiki lots of info
 

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The Hornady Training ammo, often times referred to as Hornady TAP Training ammo, does not use the zinc coated cartridges. It looks like the old shiny lacquer coating but I've no idea what it is. As it doesn't come off in the chamber, it makes no different to me what it is.

Honestly, do you think Hornady would produce a practice/training round, where the targeted audience is LE departments, that would gum up the chamber and render the weapon unusable? Now that would go a long way towards instilling trust in a company and a name brand product. :rolleyes:

The extractor is a wear item. If you pretend that the extractor will last only half the time (not likely but let's say it does), how much does an extractor cost? Midway USA sells them for $13.29....perhaps one of the more costly places to buy one. So...how many boxes of $4 ammo does it take before you already paid for a new extractor? (that you most likely will not need anyway)

There are too many people shooting this steel camsed ammo without issues for there to be all of the problems mentioned. Lots of folks parrot the info someone else posted, never having tried the ammo. If my M&P15 listened to all of the internet hype, the gun would be ruined with the chamber full of sticky gooey lacquer, the extractor worn down to a nub, etc.
 
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