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So I got the bi-tone XD9 thinking, "Well at least I won't have as MUCH trouble with rust" and that might be correct, but if I had a blue XD, the thing would be enveloped in rust. On my slide, there's a bit of rust forming in the slide serations, and there's a tiny bit on top of the slide on the back half. I've tried to rub it off with a rag and some oil, but it hasn't gone anywhere. What should I do? Should I get a new finish put on? CAN I get a new finish put over the stainless? I was led to believe that stainless is a treatment, not a finish, so will a finish even stick to a stainless slide? I'm not too worried about cost, or turn-around time, as long as it's not more than a month or two. Any suggestions?
Thanks
 

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Stainless is the type of material that the slide is made of. It is not a coating or treatment. I can't be rust, it has to be some sort of dirt or powder that you are seeing.
 

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flttster said:
Stainless is the type of material that the slide is made of. It is not a coating or treatment. I can't be rust, it has to be some sort of dirt or powder that you are seeing.
Stainless can rust.

Also, you need to take care of the gun. Make sure you are using CLP and taking proper care. Regardless of the trim, XD's need to be taken care of.

Brad
 

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Use some Blue Wonder or some Hoppes Elite, let it sit for a bit and then remove with a toothbrush. Then treat the slide, some here use Armadillo, I've used TetraGun lube (leave the Tetra on for about a minute or two, then wipe off). I do this once, maybe twice a month. My xd has the regular finish, I've had it for over two years now, +/- 3000 rounds, never have had any rust.

As far as I know, a stainless slide can be refinished.
 

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This was a very common problem when S&W first introduced the "stainless" guns back before anyone else did. Everyone thought they could stop taking care of their guns and there were many cases of pitting and rust on the stainless steel.

There really is no such thing as "rust proof" steel. If there was, it wouldn't be steel. What has to be used in firearms, to withstand the pressures and resulting stresses, is rust resistant steel. It still requires coating with a rust preventative. It was common to use a good quality paste car wax on the early guns every month or so. You smear it on and polish it.

As for taking the rust off, find some stainless steel steel wool. It used to be marketed by a couple of gun care companies, but you can find it in the housewares section of Wal-Mart. It's called Chore Boy, and won't score your gun, as long as you don't get carried away. It can also be used on blued guns, and won't take off the blueing like regular steel wool does.

"Stainless" guns require the same care as blued guns, and this isn't just XD's. I've seen numerous guns that people thought didn't require any maintenance, that were deeply pitted here on the coast.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 

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I've always had very good luck with Mother's chrome polish. Non-abrasive. Just removed some tiny rust specs from my Sig nickel-over-stainless slide. Use it on all my stainless guns. Good luck.
 

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i have noticed some discoloration on my slide. Not rust colored, just looks like darker or stained metal. Mostly in the slide serations that aid grip when cocking. I have started using CLP instead of teh Rem-Oil I had been using.
 

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I was under the impression that the Bi-Tone was not stainless. I thought there was a thread on it last year of what it really was? I have a Bi-Tone .40 myself and like stated a little clp keeps it going, it is rust free so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That kinda makes sense. I always lubricate my firearms, but I've been using just regular gun oil. I'll pick up some steel-wool and see if I can take the rust off, and then I'll get some CLP. I've lived in Arizona most my life, and have never had problems with rusting on my stainless or blue guns. California is fantastic.
 
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