I have a Springer bar installed with a PRP sear and striker safety lever. You will either need to use the factory trigger or take A LOT of material off of the back of the PRP trigger (since that functions as the overtravel stop). I went with the factory trigger since I like the "soft" feel of the trigger bar providing the overtravel stop as opposed to the hard stop of the over travel being built into the trigger. If you take down the PRP trigger enough, you could have a redundant over travel stop.
In modifying the springer bar, most of the work was at the back of the bar where it engages the striker safety lever. Follow the instructions on the Springer sight for a typical install and go slow and it can be done. The advantages of the Springer bar with the PRP sear and safety lever are, imo -
1) Improved trigger bar
2) Simultaneous engagement of safety and sear to mirror factory operation
3) Moves the trigger a bit further forward as opposed to how much further back the trigger is with PRP kit by itself.
4) "Soft" overtravel stop.
I will tell you this work isn't for everyone. It took me awhile to get it right. At one point, I had an automatic-semi-automatic that would have (if not fully tested) fired 2 rounds with one trigger pull before the safety would reset. If you have ANY DOUBTS about your ability and willingness TO PROPERLY TEST WITH DRY FIRE then you should not attempt this work.