[Snaphook]

Something in the mechanism bound up and now when pulling the trigger DA or SA the cylinder doesn't rotate.

Bummer.

I can't remember the last time I had revolver problems but this one is headed back to DW. I contacted them today and they promised to get me a shipping label but I haven't seen it yet. I'll let the hive know how they did taking care of the problem.

I like the gun, and I love wheelie's, so I hope it's a quick fix and as good as new.

 

[DevJames]

Sounds like the pawl got f'd.

When people say revolvers are reliable, take it with a grain of salt.

Hopefully they take care of you and it's a fluke issue with just yours and not a line wide issue.

 

[GT Jon]

Don't you hate when a revolver doesn't?

Happened with a Model 64 Carl bought for his sister. Let me know what happens with your DW, they're on my short list just because they're so sexy.

 

[Snaphook]

Thanks guys, I'll let you know. I thought about pulling the side plate to see if anything obvious went bad but thought better of it. Let DW figure it out.

 

[M1A4ME]

You need to keep the S&W's well (maybe very well) lubed at the cylinder/crane (probably other areas, too).

One of the guys I worked with years ago had a similar issue.

Using the trigger to turn the cylinder (double action firing) takes some leverage. The cylinder would turn by hand when it was opened, but not by pulling the trigger. Cocking it to fire single action was also pretty difficult.

We took it apart and found the crane badly galled where the cylinder rotated on it. Galled and dry as a bone. We took some fine sand paper and smoothed out all the rough spots on the crane, lubed it up and put it back together and it was fine.

I read (in a gun magazine) many years ago that S&W did not make the pieces that slide/turn, etc. against another part from different grades of stainless steel (Ruger did/does). That's why the S&W stainless steel revolvers use hard chromed hammers and triggers while Ruger uses stainless steel for theirs.

I wonder if the Dan Wessons use the same grade of stainless steel for the cylinder/crane, hammer/trigger, etc?

I over lube my guns, even the stainless steel ones. I'd rather have some oil on my hands than a gun that fails (there's no right time for a gun to fail but sometimes the result is much worse.)

 

[evilspringer]

Well that really sux to hear.

Hope they get to back to you quick.




If you would just stick with Glocks!

 

[Daedalus]

My moms .38 Snubby just did that snaphook, Had to put it in to a gun smith to fix I guess the 80 dollars it cost was worth it to fix. It was the only issue that gun has ever had since my dad bought it for her in 1975 I do not want to think how many rounds that thing has fired, It belonged to a Cop prior to my dad buying it.

 

[Snaphook]

You need to keep the S&W's well (maybe very well) lubed at the cylinder/crane (probably other areas, too).

One of the guys I worked with years ago had a similar issue.

Using the trigger to turn the cylinder (double action firing) takes some leverage. The cylinder would turn by hand when it was opened, but not by pulling the trigger. Cocking it to fire single action was also pretty difficult.

We took it apart and found the crane badly galled where the cylinder rotated on it. Galled and dry as a bone. We took some fine sand paper and smoothed out all the rough spots on the crane, lubed it up and put it back together and it was fine.

I read (in a gun magazine) many years ago that S&W did not make the pieces that slide/turn, etc. against another part from different grades of stainless steel (Ruger did/does). That's why the S&W stainless steel revolvers use hard chromed hammers and triggers while Ruger uses stainless steel for theirs.

I wonder if the Dan Wessons use the same grade of stainless steel for the cylinder/crane, hammer/trigger, etc?

I over lube my guns, even the stainless steel ones. I'd rather have some oil on my hands than a gun that fails (there's no right time for a gun to fail but sometimes the result is much worse.)

Good stuff, thanks. I have taken the side of the DW and it's SW like inside, nothing like the Ruger modular system. The DW has a very short and nice DA pull. On my SW's I keep them lubed inside with TW25b, it's excellent and keeps the pull nice and smooth.

 

[Snaphook]

Well that really sux to hear.

Hope they get to back to you quick.




If you would just stick with Glocks!

Well it was inevitable that SOMEONE would relate it to a Glock! I was impressed that Jon and Carl were able to control themselves

 

[GT Jon]

Hey, I can keep from peeing on the carpet from time to time... :lol:

 

[Helpdesk9]

Don't you hate when a revolver doesn't?

Happened with a Model 64 Carl bought for his sister. Let me know what happens with your DW, they're on my short list just because they're so sexy.

 

[GT Jon]

Yup, I'm definitely getting a taste for revolvers.

I must be getting old.

 

[Daedalus]

Yup, I'm definitely getting a taste for revolvers.

I must be getting old.

Don't worry you are not really old till you give up on hand guns all together and just go to a double barrel shot gun because A. you can not see past the tip of your nose and B. it works in a Jiff as a replacement Cane.

 

[GT Jon]

Ah, so you're saying my boom stick can also double as a pimp stick.

Nice!

 

[Daedalus]

Ah, so you're saying my boom stick can also double as a pimp stick.

Nice!

I almost fell out of my chair laughing Pol at work must think I am crazy

 

[scooter123]

You may want to reconsider not pulling the sideplate. Because the lockwork on the small frame Dan Wesson is an extremely minimalist design that makes a S&W look needlessly complex. You issue could be a simple a fix as repositioning the spring that applies pressure to the Hand (technically a Pawl) that drives the ratchet teeth on the cylinder. Over on the Dan Wesson forum you can find repair guides with plenty of pictures illustration what goes where and how it needs to be positioned.

 

[Snaphook]

You may want to reconsider not pulling the sideplate. Because the lockwork on the small frame Dan Wesson is an extremely minimalist design that makes a S&W look needlessly complex. You issue could be a simple a fix as repositioning the spring that applies pressure to the Hand (technically a Pawl) that drives the ratchet teeth on the cylinder. Over on the Dan Wesson forum you can find repair guides with plenty of pictures illustration what goes where and how it needs to be positioned.

I actually have pulled the side plate before and used the DW forum to figure how to put stuff back together, but in this case I figured let them fix it.

 

[JJ119]

Sorry to hear this!
Tuning in......

 

[JoeOU1]

Well that really sux to hear.

Hope they get to back to you quick.




If you would just stick with Glocks!

Sorry to hear about that. Frustrating.

 

[57K]

I actually have pulled the side plate before and used the DW forum to figure how to put stuff back together, but in this case I figured let them fix it.

Snap, this is unfortunate, but you did buy a very early production model. I think it's wise to send it back. Considering what you paid for the 715 and CZ's goal of making the DW revolvers prominent again and comparable to the best out there, this has to be somewhat of an embarassment to them. I would expect that you'll get it back after some specific TLC has been given to it to make it even better than it was when you bought it.