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Discussion Starter #1
Have a few questions about Saiga conversion...
How does the factory trigger group compare to the tapco g2 as far as trigger pull quality, also how does the single hook g2 compare to the double? for using the double hook, is it just a matter of cutting extra clearance into the bottom of the reciever to install?
also does moving the trigger group and pistol grip forward make a big difference in how the rifle handles (i would imagine so) or is it not that big of a difference for quickly swinging between targets?
I'm trying to get a hi cap rifle soon because of potential gun ban theories, and figure i better do the mods I want and take pics to have postmarked to prove compliance and timeline. Also I don't give a rip about how it looks or authenticity...just want a workhorse to shoot and have around in case.
I will probably try to buy the rifle and most of whatever parts i need from gilberts guns as they are a xd talk site sponsor, but I kind of want to do just 1 order for the whole thing to save shipping except for bullet guide and whatever else they don't stock.
thanks in advance....Adam
 

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Dinzagarms.com sells almost everything you need to convert...and he's got excellent reviews on the saiga-12 forums...as well as directions for installation of several of his products.

From reading, no one who converts their Saiga has regretted it (except for a few complaints about feeding issues, but they disappeared without answering questions on if they installed a bullet guide, so they may have merely missed a part needed to accept AK mags reliably.

From reading, everyone who got a G2 preferred it over the factory trigger.

Get the single hook...I really don't see a need for the double hook, and it's extra work and another thing you have to do where you could mess up.

As for moving it forward in the PG conversion style...the only case I think you'd have a problem is if after you moved the trigger forward you didn't install a PG, then you'd notice an issue...otherwise it's just different...

Personally, I prefer a PG grip to have my hand on while I pull a trigger...pulling from a sport stock (like the stock Saiga) just feels awkward to my hand.

I haven't done my conversion yet...still waiting on parts. I'll let you know what I think after I get it done...but as I said, everyone that HAS done it has reported back positively, as far as I've read.
 

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Parts 7, 8 and 9 in this picture are the Saiga factory "trigger". The two pins (10) at the rear of the receiver (the ones only found on the Saiga) are what hold this Rube Goldberg arrangement in place. This is also why the Saiga trigger pull sucks to shame a Hoover factory. It should be noted that the hammer (1) and disconnecter (3) are standard Kalashnikov parts.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks for the feedback...i'll plan to use the G2 and relocate the pistol grip then...it's not a big investment $$ if it really helps the trigger pull....i'm making up a list of what i'm going to order and what I want to do, mabey i'll post back with specific parts and prices for you guys to look over later if you don't mind....I don't know anything about ak's but from what i have been able to read and the cross con picture tutorials, it doesn't look like rocket science. I'm a carpenter and have done some metal work in the past and I have a friend who has most of a descent metal shop with a high end tig welder. Just don't know alot about the gun or the parts.
 

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It doesn't look hard...just make sure to replace 4 of the stock parts with American-made parts for compliance...read up on the 922r page on Dinzag's site.

The G2 FCG (trigger/hammer stuff) counts as 3...and a butt stock would be a 4th...at least that's what I'm planning on changing out when the parts come in...as well as a bullet guide so I can use cheaper AK mags ($11-15) vs the Saiga mags ($35+) in my rifle.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
absolutely...i plan to take pics of the process and buy stamps and have them postmarked with a written discription and such on the back, to try to make sure to have as little problem as I can with questions of compliance or the timeline that the mods were done in case of the laws changing. Like a post card picture book for the BATF.
i'm kind of paranoid i guess:lol:
 

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absolutely...i plan to take pics of the process and buy stamps and have them postmarked with a written discription and such on the back, to try to make sure to have as little problem as I can with questions of compliance or the timeline that the mods were done in case of the laws changing. Like a post card picture book for the BATF.
i'm kind of paranoid i guess:lol:
I'm of the opinion that you're guilty until proven innocent, and all you have to do is say you did it, and if they don't like that, they can take it to court, cause you sure as hell will...they have to prove the modifications were done after X date.
 

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they have to prove the modifications were done after X date.
Yep, that'll work on your 2007 or 2008 manufactured Saiga.

"You say you hopped in your time machine and modified it before it was built?"
 

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It's not illegal to modify it right now...and mine was test-fired at the factory in early 2008...and since it only takes an evening to modify the rifle, and the parts don't have manufacture dates on them...I fail to see your logic?
 

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It's not illegal to modify it right now...and mine was test-fired at the factory in early 2008...and since it only takes an evening to modify the rifle, and the parts don't have manufacture dates on them...I fail to see your logic?
I misread, and thought the previous ban timeline was being referred to.

Never mind me.
 

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...are what hold this Rube Goldberg arrangement in place. This is also why the Saiga trigger pull sucks to shame a Hoover factory...
yep. I got a saiga 762x39 a couple weeks ago. before doing any mods, I took it to the range. trigger pull was bad news. long, heavy , creepy. not good at all. my other ak has the tapco trigger. much much nicer.

to run std AK mags, you'll need to do what's described here. I got my fire control parts/bullet guide from Dinzag. his site has some excellent documentation on how to do the install. I've read that if you just use the stock Tapco G2 kit in a saiga, you may need to file some on the hammer. if you get the kit from Dinzag, it's pre-modded to just drop in. he also includes hitch pins to keep the trigger axis pin and hammer axis pins from backing out. on the stock configuration, the shepherd's crook does this, but it's a real PITA to re-install. my bullet guide took a bit of tweaking to run smooth, but no big deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I've read that if you just use the stock Tapco G2 kit in a saiga, you may need to file some on the hammer. if you get the kit from Dinzag, it's pre-modded to just drop in.


I had not heard this....good info thank you, i'll give a call to Dinzag and see if I can pick his brain quick....I was planning on a bullet guide from there anyway
 

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I've read that if you just use the stock Tapco G2 kit in a saiga, you may need to file some on the hammer. if you get the kit from Dinzag, it's pre-modded to just drop in.


I had not heard this....good info thank you, i'll give a call to Dinzag and see if I can pick his brain quick....I was planning on a bullet guide from there anyway
What is being discussed with "file the hammer" is that when you put a brand new G2 FCG into an AK, the hammer has not been fitted to the gun, and the hammer may push against the bolt carrier due to it being a smidgen thicker than the factory hammer.

This produces the "my gun now has a bolt hold open!" effect, but does not affect the weapons operation.

You do not need to file anything, you just need to shoot the gun. It will break in after a few hundred rounds.

Some folks file too much and ruin their hammers. Filing is not necessary. If you must do something, polishing the hammer face is all you need (but even that isn't necessary).

The other thing is that you may be confusing Dinzags hammers that are modified for use with the Saiga bolt hold open.
 
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