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Discussion Starter #1
I have a S&W 340CT M&P revolver. It has over 2000 dry fires, and about 500 rounds through it.

When I first got it new, the trigger sucked. You could literally feel the grind in the trigger when you pulled it slowly. After spending about a week dry firing the living hell out of it, it is actually quite smooth now. The trigger pull requires even pressure throughout it's entire length.

However, I am planning on giving this gun to someone special (female), who has great difficulty with the weight of the trigger. My Lyman digital trigger scale only goes up to 12lbs. At 12lbs, this trigger hasn't even budged! Literally....it doesn't move with the scale at all, and exceeds it's limit.

I have read a lot about working on J-frames, and it appears many people are really hesitant (read: scared) to open up the side plate on one. Well I opened the thing up (no big deal, really), and looked around inside.

I can understand people not polishing case hardened parts because once you do, they will wear a lot faster, but what's up with the springs???

People say that j-frames are undersprung as it is, and to never mess with them. Well, maybe some j-frames (I don't have a lot of experience with pocket revolvers) have lighter pulls, but not this model.

For those of you that have dealt with j-frames, is 12#++++ normal for them?

Couldn't I "try" a spring kit and see how it works?

Many people will say that it can cause unreliability, but no one that I have read that has ACTUALLY done one has had any issues.

Thanks!!!

 

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I can't comment on what you might be able to do about it, but I don't think you're alone. It takes tremendous pressure to pull the trigger on my model 642. I don't have a scale, but I bet it's around 16 lbs. Even stiffer than the DA pull on my Ruger Super Redhawk! At least I don't have to worry about shootin' myself in the britches while its in the pocket...

Jim
 

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I did some monor polishing and also resprung my 642 and while its still a double action pull, its much lighter and smoother and has allowed for a great deal more accuracy. I dont remember which lb springs I installed but i did alot of research on it on the S&W forum before hand. Mine is 100% reliable still and while im sure I can go a tad lighter, I refuse to accept a possible FTF. Several friends who have fired it, agree on the ease, a couple of women have fired it and didnt have any problems.
 

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I have changed the springs in both of my J-Frames without any problems. Really helped the trigger pull. In this December's issue of Shooting Times, it shows you how to do it. The only thing that you should watch is how the hammer block safety is assembled. Otherwise it was a snap.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I got the wolf kit and put in the 8# hammer spring and the 13# recoil spring. Nothing...

I don't notice the difference at all. The trigger is still WELL over 12lbs. My 12lb Lyman gauge can't even move the trigger.

After dry firing for about 5K times over about 3 weeks (before the new springs) the action became MUCH smoother, but still had a 12+ lb pull.

Now, with the new springs, the pull seems about the same, but the release on the trigger from the 13lb spring is no where near as quick and smooth.

How can going from an 8.5lb hammer spring (which I believe is stock) to a 8lb make really any difference???

Any ideas from people who have ACTUALLY done mods to their J-frames. I think the M&P is different from the 642...much heavier pull on all those that I have tested.

Thanks!
 

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I got the wolf kit and put in the 8# hammer spring and the 13# recoil spring. Nothing...

I don't notice the difference at all. The trigger is still WELL over 12lbs. My 12lb Lyman gauge can't even move the trigger.

After dry firing for about 5K times over about 3 weeks (before the new springs) the action became MUCH smoother, but still had a 12+ lb pull.

Now, with the new springs, the pull seems about the same, but the release on the trigger from the 13lb spring is no where near as quick and smooth.

How can going from an 8.5lb hammer spring (which I believe is stock) to a 8lb make really any difference???

Any ideas from people who have ACTUALLY done mods to their J-frames. I think the M&P is different from the 642...much heavier pull on all those that I have tested.

Thanks!
Since the Wolff spring kit didn't work, you'll probably need to send it off to a gunsmith for an action job. My M36 had one before I got it and the pull is right about 8lbs.
 

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If you are giving this to someone for self defense, IMHO you should have it done by a gunsmith who knows these guns and then go fire it at least 100 rounds to test it.

Tell her since it's most likely she'll be in her bedroom at night with hardly any clothes on should she need to use this gun, it must be tested in conditions as close to that as possible.

Too far?
Too far.
 

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If you are giving this to someone for self defense, IMHO you should have it done by a gunsmith who knows these guns and then go fire it at least 100 rounds to test it.

Tell her since it's most likely she'll be in her bedroom at night with hardly any clothes on should she need to use this gun, it must be tested in conditions as close to that as possible.

Too far?
Too far.
It would not be too far if the pictures were posted on the Girls and Guns Thread. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Since the Wolff spring kit didn't work, you'll probably need to send it off to a gunsmith for an action job. My M36 had one before I got it and the pull is right about 8lbs.
Yeah, I was thinking that. But thats more $$$ on an already $$$ gun.
 

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Yeah, I was thinking that. But thats more $$$ on an already $$$ gun.
The other option is to do it yourself. I've done some minor work on some of my guns, and one of them (action job on a Blackhawk) ended up costing me quite a bit of money to fix what I screwed up.

Or you can just get her an LCP.
 

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Any further resolution or is this it? I WAS going to order the Wolff spring till I saw this thread. Crap, I hate spending even more on a trigger job, but I want this done right and reliably.
 

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My 340 had a 'factory' action job but the pull still sucked. Installed Wolff springs and it feels slightly better but still heavy.

It still functions fine 18mos later.
 

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If anyone can recommend a good trigger man I'd love to hear it. My 642 is still partially disassembled because of what a pain it is to get one of the springs back in, and I'd gladly just make it someone else's problem while it's out the door anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If anyone can recommend a good trigger man I'd love to hear it. My 642 is still partially disassembled because of what a pain it is to get one of the springs back in, and I'd gladly just make it someone else's problem while it's out the door anyway.
I dry fired about 2000+ times. It's better, but still heavy. I'm going to eventually send it off to get it worked on.

My 340 had a 'factory' action job but the pull still sucked. Installed Wolff springs and it feels slightly better but still heavy.

It still functions fine 18mos later.
I installed the Wolf kit and didn't notice a damn thing as far as the pull. It was still off my 12lb lyman gauge. The only thing the reduced recoil spring did was make it not snap back as forcefully after each shot, which isn't good. I put the factory springs back in.

Any further resolution or is this it? I WAS going to order the Wolff spring till I saw this thread. Crap, I hate spending even more on a trigger job, but I want this done right and reliably.
You can easily make a tool that helps, or buy one at Brownells. It involves a small old screwdriver and a dremel tool. Look around for pics and how-to.
 

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I've got a J-frame .38 S&W that I bought for my wife for home use, when I'm gone at night. It has like a 16# trigger too and she also can't pull the trigger with one hand.

I've taken her to the range and taught her to hold the gun with both hands and to overlap her left index finger on top of her right index finger on the trigger and to squeeze both at the same time. When doing this she can easily pull the trigger and can get center mass hits back to the 10 yard line at the range on a man sized target.

My wife won't be entering any pistol competitions & won't be doing any bullseye shooting.....but if she ever needs to pick this pistol up inside our home and use it to defend herself & the kids......I know she can now use the FACTORY set trigger & get hits on a person in any room in the house........

I'm making her do dry fire drills with one finger to strengthen it up though.......:cool:
 

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Any ideas from people who have ACTUALLY done mods to their J-frames. I think the M&P is different from the 642...much heavier pull on all those that I have tested.

Thanks!
(Disjointed train of thought alert) OK, if I remember right, I tried the lightest rebound spring first, but its outside diameter was a little off and it bound some in the recoil slide and gave me similar results as to what you are experiencing. I'd definitely try the middle rebound spring (which is what I ended up using), and see if that gives you better results! If not, read on for other ideas...hope it helps!

Did you buy the reduced power pack, or just replacement springs? I'd also check the rebound slide (the little bar behind the trigger) for burrs or roughness. Be sure to blast the thing out with a mild degreaser and lube it up at all contact points. My 637 was dirty as heck and not from shooting it. As the parts wear, they cause quite a bit of grime, and you mentioned you had a couple thousand dry fires.

You also mentioned that the trigger reset wasn't great after the spring change. Again, I would start there and check for roughness, grit and grime on the rebound slide. If I remember right, I didn't use the smallest spring in the kit for the rebound spring because it was of slightly larger diameter, and didn't work well at all.

Oh, and to the guy who couldn't get the recoil spring back into place, a set of smooth-jaw needlenose pliers works great. Wheeler Engineering also makes a standard screwdriver hex bit that is designed specifically for the rebound spring, and it costs less than $5.
 

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Oh, and to the guy who couldn't get the recoil spring back into place, a set of smooth-jaw needlenose pliers works great. Wheeler Engineering also makes a standard screwdriver hex bit that is designed specifically for the rebound spring, and it costs less than $5.
Any advice on getting the Sear spring back in?

I ordered a replacement off Numerich but I honestly think that since their diagram for the 642 is generic that it's the incorrect size.
 
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