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I'm in the market for a new S&W 686 but was warned by a friend not to buy one that wasn't built at least 8 years ago. He told me they tend to jam a lot and sent me this link as proof. It's kind of shocking because I thought one of the major selling points of revolvers was they never jamed. Wasn't sure if anyone else heard anything like this? Is a Ruger GP 100 a better choice?

Post Your Integral Lock Induced Failures (ILIF). - Topic Powered by eve community
 

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well, i can tell you there is a LOT of talk on the S/W forum about this very problem.....

i even posted about it a few weeks ago when i saw this happen first hand at the range.....guy shooting a Smith with the lock froze up hard.....this has kept me from getting a smith with that stupid-ass lock on it!!!!

IMO, a Ruger is the only other choice......Smith would be my first choice if not for the damn lock......

but as long as its for a range/fun gun i wouldnt worry about it...but for concealed carry/defense...i wouldnt trust my life to a smith with the lock....jusy my two-cents
 

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I carry a 642 with a lock and have not had any issues, nor have I seen any first hand. FWIW, the stories I have heard have started out with "I have a buddy who has a buddy who shot a ........" you get the idea. You can dissasemble the lock if it is a concern.
 

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I have had a 642 with a lock for over a year and so far so good. Im really considering just removing the lock so if I ever want to sell the gun, I can put it back to factory specs.

I have a GP100 and its been a fabulous pistol. Put a spring kit in it and do some polishing and you get really nice trigger job. I
 

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It is a known problem and one that S&W, while not openly admitting, is addressing by introducing several new non-lock models including the 642 and 442.

I have a 586 that I got back in the 80's and I love it. I did a trigger job on it and haven't touched anything else. Probably three to four thousand rounds later with both .357 and .38SP loads and not a single issue. My advice is buy one without the lock if it concerns you that much, or buy a newer one and remove the lock.

If you go with a no-lock model, there are several on Gunbroker right now in various barrel lengths for excellent prices. Just do a search for 686 and lock and you'll find them.
 

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I have had a 642 with a lock for over a year and so far so good. Im really considering just removing the lock so if I ever want to sell the gun, I can put it back to factory specs.

I have a GP100 and its been a fabulous pistol. Put a spring kit in it and do some polishing and you get really nice trigger job. I
How do you remove the lock on the S&W?

Chapie+
 

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How do you remove the lock on the S&W?

Chapie+

I dont think you can since its built into the hammer , but I am open to hearing what others say .
 

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I bought a Ruger SP101 .357 Mag recently for this very reason , it doesnt have the key lock safety crap or ILS . It is still good ole fashioned revolver PERIOD. ;)
 

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Just remove the locking mechanism so it cannot engage the hammer. It will leave a small hole in the fram but thats not a big deal. If you want to sell the gun, reinstal the lock.
 

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Just remove the locking mechanism so it cannot engage the hammer. It will leave a small hole in the fram but thats not a big deal. If you want to sell the gun, reinstal the lock.
+1.
 

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I've got a 686-6 (mfg 1/2006) with the lock; I've never used the lock myself. When I bought the gun used, the key was missing anyway; S&W sent me two replacement keys at no charge. I've probably put 2000 rounds through the gun and never had any kind of jam, integral lock-related (or any anything else-related, for that matter).
 

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I've got a 686-6 (mfg 1/2006) with the lock; I've never used the lock myself. When I bought the gun used, the key was missing anyway; S&W sent me two replacement keys at no charge. I've probably put 2000 rounds through the gun and never had any kind of jam, integral lock-related (or any anything else-related, for that matter).
I "jammed" a 686. No internal lock on it. How did I jam it? By shooting very hot (as in very stupid) reloads that blew the primer out. The cylinder wouldn't turn and it was locked up. It was my duty gun and I was feeling really, really stupid (not the only time in my life). I ran to the gunsmith who had an office in the same building as the range and gunshop. He looked at me, and my badge, shook his head, and freed it - thank GOD! - prior to my going on duty and my Sgt. picking up on it. (I don't know how Sgt's could do that - but they could. They just knew things.) So yeah, a revolver can be jammed. When an auto jams you tap, rack, and bang - when a revolver jams you cry. And yes I carry both an auto (XD .45) and revolver (S&W 642 with the lock) every day for work and play.

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any pics or write-ups on how to take it out?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I was also looking at the 629 but with all the problems am now leaning towards either a Taurus 6'' raging bull or 4'' tracker. A 44 won't be something I'll be shooting all the time just a "trail friend" in case I run into a hungry bear. Is it worth the extra money for the 629-4 (used older version with no lock) or can I get away with a Taurus?
 

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I was also looking at the 629 but with all the problems am now leaning towards either a Taurus 6'' raging bull or 4'' tracker. A 44 won't be something I'll be shooting all the time just a "trail friend" in case I run into a hungry bear. Is it worth the extra money for the 629-4 (used older version with no lock) or can I get away with a Taurus?
Curious what you mean by "all the problems"... I really have not run across complaints about issues with the 629, or the the 686 for that matter.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Curious what you mean by "all the problems"... I really have not run across complaints about issues with the 629, or the the 686 for that matter.
By all the problems I meant the internal lock problems S&W has been having
 

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Please keep your responses to the topic specific firearm.
 
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