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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was looking over my Stag tonight. I got it last November I think. I have taken it to the range twice. I noticed that two allen bolts heads, that hold the rails on are starting to rust. What would you guys suggest as in a way to remove the rust and how to prevent it from comming back. I thought about putting a dab of Naval Jelly on there they maybe pack it with grease??

We live in South Florida and the humidity is never lower than 80%. I do have a dehumidifier silcon gel can for the safe. It takes one day for it to become saturated and I just see no reason to bake it in the oven every day for it to last 24 hours! What would you guys do?
 

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From what I understand, the rust isn't on the gun itself, just on the screws. Just spend a few cents and get some new hex socket screws if you're concerned about it.

The great thing about the AR platform is the prevalence of aluminum. It's pretty rust resistant overall. Just keep that parkerizing on the barrel saturated with oil and it'll be good to go for years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
From what I understand, the rust isn't on the gun itself, just on the screws. Just spend a few cents and get some new hex socket screws if you're concerned about it.

The great thing about the AR platform is the prevalence of aluminum. It's pretty rust resistant overall. Just keep that parkerizing on the barrel saturated with oil and it'll be good to go for years.
Ok thanks man! I was wondering what type of finish that was on the barrel to LOL.
 

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Just paint the bolt heads flat black.

Or you could do a camo job and paint everything.
 

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Two things I have found that helped me with the humidity in the safe. Stick 1/4" weather stripping found at Lowe's or Walmart around the inside edge of the safe door. Seals the door from outside our. Secondly, buy two more large boxes or tins of the gel. You can go two to three months without using the oven with three in the safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Two things I have found that helped me with the humidity in the safe. Stick 1/4" weather stripping found at Lowe's or Walmart around the inside edge of the safe door. Seals the door from outside our. Secondly, buy two more large boxes or tins of the gel. You can go two to three months without using the oven with three in the safe.
I thought about weather stripping, I have some heavy duty stuff from work. I just thought it might be an issue if the house cought on fire, it would start to burn and compromise the fire resistence of the safe.
 

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Clp, ap brush and elbow grease.
 

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light steel wool, and then CLP the hell out of it.
 

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light steel wool, and then CLP the hell out of it.

CLP does work...i CLP'd my door today because when i came home from class my darn door was WIDE OPEN...had a cold steel knife in my truck...grabbed it...went straight up stairs to grab my XDM9c and cleared my apartement...ended up being the locks not catching due to RUST...RUUUSSSSSSTT!!!! so CLP works.
 

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light steel wool, and then CLP the hell out of it.
Steel wool isn't even allowed in my house!

First of all steel wool is iron not steel. Being iron, it tends to be brittle and will break into very fine, dust like particles. Prove it to yourself by squeezing iron wool over a white piece of paper. Look carefully. You will see those particles.

Those particles will become trapped in the nooks and crannies of your gun and will rust faster than you can reply to this thread! If you must use a metal "wool", use bronze. Bronze won't rust, but it is too hard for use on gun finishes in my opinion.

I would recommend using a blunted wooden dowel, like those sold in hobby stores or hardware stores for model building. Most people call it "Balsa", but it could be "boxwood" or "cottonwood", I think.

Carve a blunted point on one end, like a pencil point. Put a small amount of Hopie's #9 directly on the rusted screw heads. I would back the screw out from flush to protect the surrounding finish. Wipe the Hopie's from the rusted spot. Try to keep the dowel dry and firm. Don't let it get saturated and soft. If It does become saturated, carve back to dry wood and make another blunted point.

Holding the dowel like a pencil, "erase" the rust. You can re-blue the spot if it's large enough. I usually just use Hopie's or any oil to blend the spot into the good finish.

I live in La Floridas (The Flowers) also. I wipe my guns with a silicone cloth weekly or after they are handled.

One Eye Jack
 

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I ran across these when I was traveling in Tennessee, I happened to stop in Sevierville at the Smokey Mountain Knife Works (Awesome place by the way, LOL) and they had these magic eraser type rust removers for knives. I actually tried it on a sample rusty knife and it worked really well. Not sure if it will work on the AR since the receivers are mostly aluminum but it may be worth a shot....
 
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