Springfield XD Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey Folks,

Just bought a MK III and love it. Unfortunately, when I went to field strip it, when I got to the part where th ebolt assembly comes out, it would only move 1/2 inch. I read lots of things about how to get past that, and when I tried that, now, the bolt still doesn't move more than 1/2 inch AND I can't eject the magazine.
Let it also be said that I am not the sharpest pencil in the box when it comes to the inner workings of firearms.
Am I in Gunsmithing territory?
Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
471 Posts
You have to use a lot more force than you think. Just a little less than it would take to break it. The first time you strip apart a Ruger .22 will be harsh and you may wind up using a mallet. The first time I ever did it took me well over an hour from disassembly to reassembly. But that's just the first time. After that, it gets a lot easier.

Are you holding the pistol with the barrel pointed straight up when you pull the bolt out? It usually won't pull out otherwise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I do have the barrel pointed straight up. It sounds like it is hitting metal when I try and pull the bolt out.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,895 Posts
Usually it's not a problem to disassemble them. It's getting them reassembled that gets people.

There are some awesome videos out there showing how to do it.

If you have to use force you've missed something.

That bolt should slide right out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,218 Posts
Here's the video that got me over the hump on the field strip:

I have two Mark III's. One of them is absolute hell to strip. Taking down is a bit tough, reassembly is a nightmare. I had to make a tapered pin to drive in from the top of the gun to line up the barrel/frame. A bit of beating with a leather mallet is also required.

The other Mark III, and my Mark 1 - no problem. I can field strip those faster than I can pull down my 1911 (albeit, it has a full length guide rod).

You may be doing everything right, and you just may have a problem child. I was lucky in that I owned the other pistols before I got my problem child so I "knew" that I was doing things correctly.

Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,969 Posts
The Legend of William Ruger and the Curse on his .22 semi-automatic pistol
as told by Dr. FrankenRuger
The story goes that Bill Ruger wanted to make the greatest .22 semi-auto pistol ever manufactured. So for years he tried and continuously failed to achieve his goal. Supposedly, one dark moonless night, Bill Ruger was working in his garage, on the .22 pistol he wished to create, when he severely cut his hand. He quickly threw a towel over the wound and at the same time exclaimed, “ Damn Gun! To Hell with you!”

Just by coincidence, the clock struck midnight, and as this happened, Bill Ruger heard a noise from behind him. “ I can help you with that gun.”, said a voice from the darkness outside the garage.


“Huh... Who’s out there?”, Bill asked.


“Just a man passing by.”, the stranger replied as he stepped into Bill’s shop. “ I heard what you said and I have here the plans for the perfect .22 semi-auto pistol.”


Bill, the shrewd business man he was, looked at the man and said, “What will it cost me?”


The man replied, “Your Soul.”


Bill said, “Well let me take a look first, I wanna see what I’m gettin.”


The man rolled out the prints and showed Bill Ruger the design for the greatest .22 semi-auto pistol ever. Bill looked them over real close and studied them as quick as he could, but before he could see how the Takedown Mechanism worked, the Stranger rolled up the plans.


“Now sign here if you want to see the rest.”, The man pointed his boney finger to the bottom of a 2,871 page contract.


Bill looked at it and said, “Heck NO! What do you think I am? CRAZY?"


Bill reached over and grabbed a gun that was leaning against the wall and pointed it at the stranger, “Now get out of here before I blast you with this shotgun.”, he said in a threatening voice.


The man backed out the doorway into the night and as he did he said, “ I Curse you Bill Ruger and your .22 semi-auto pistol. Anyone who tries to take your gun apart and put it back together again, will suffer pain and agony beyond anything on earth.”

Before he could forget what he saw, Bill quickly set to work on making the pistol, but soon ran into problems. Everything was going along perfect until he got to the Takedown Mechanism. Since the stranger had rolled up the plans before he saw how it was assembled, he could not figure out how to make it work. So he made the pistol as close to perfect as he could get it.


For years people have struggled to take their Ruger .22 semi-auto pistols apart and reassemble it. Many Gunsmiths have been put to shame and even quit their jobs because they could not reassemble the pistol. Some of the greatest Gunsmiths on the planet have even taken on the quest to remove Excalibur from the Stone and solve the problem of the Takedown Mechanism, but their Holy Grail eluded them.


Finally, from a small village in Staten Island, a Heroic Gunsmith has solved the puzzle that has baffled man for six decades. Dino Longueira has invented the [SIZE=+0]Majestic Arms Ruger .22 Semi-Auto Speed Strip Kit
http://drfrankenruger.com/mark_ii_iii_pistol_accessories. This kit makes cleaning of the Ruger .22 semi-auto pistol a breeze. No more turning your gun upside down, wrestling with the takedown mechanism, trying to push the hammer forward....[/SIZE]

Simply unscrew the Bolt Pin (part of the Speed Strip Kit). Slide the Bolt out. Clean you gun. Reinsert the Bolt. Insert the Bolt Pin and tighten. It’s that simple.


It can be used on any model of the Ruger .22 semi-auto pistol, from the originals back in the 50’s, to the Mark III model they make today. It even comes with a 3.5 lb Hammer to lighten your trigger pull.


There is also a new kit called the Majestic Arms Ruger .22 Semi-Auto Speed Strip Kit Mark 3.2. This kit has a Trigger Take-up Bushing and the 3.5 lb. hammer. The Take-up bushing does exactly what is says, by reducing up to 75% of the trigger take-up on Mark II and previous manufactured models. On the Mark III pistols the bushing serves a double duty. One, providing trigger take-up and two, it removes the factory installed magazine safety. Now you will never have to insert a magazine into your gun in order for it to operate.


So stop fighting with your pistol and start shooting it... With Majestic Arms Speed Strip Kits.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,401 Posts
I had to use the You Tube video too! My wife almost saw me throw the gun across the room one night trying to dis/re-assemble it!

I love shooting it as much as I hate cleaning it! I'm ordering that kit!!!!!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
127,151 Posts
I love my Mark lll, but it is a bear to disassemble and reassemble. It does get better with practice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Got a callback from Ruger Customer Service. A guy named Julian took me through it step-by-step. Apparently, this is very common. It didn't help matters much that I wasn't sure what I was looking at to begin with. He sent me written instructions that are much clearer than the Owner's manual. If anybody wants a copy, send me a message.
Thanks for all your help and feedback.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
471 Posts
You should post that here anyway. People get confused all the time and ask this very question with due regularity. So if you don't mind me asking, which was the particular fly in your ointment?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,401 Posts
Okay I ordered the quick cleaning kit for my 22/45 and a bolt release for my 10/22!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Here is the instructions I got from Ruger Customer Service. I think it's interesting that there is an official disclaimer from Ruger at the beginning, yet this is what they sent me. Either way, my Mark 111 is up and running. Put about 100 rounds through it yesterday. Still very accurate (or I'm just a lucky shot).
The problem with the magazine not ejecting was that the barrel had moved slightly. Had to do a yap with a hammer and wood block to move it back into place, and then the magazine popped right out.
Have a great day.



Assembly & Disassembly Instructions for a Ruger Mark III Pistol

Legal Note: These are my interpretations of my steps. Ruger does not sanction this webpage. (It is mostly for me to remember how to assemble/disassemble my own pistol.) If you choose to follow these instructions you do so at your own risk/peril.
(This is what Ruger Customer Service sent me, so they must believe in it)​

Disassembly:



1. Please make sure the pistol has been dry fired. Please remove the magazine from the pistol.
2. Use a paper clip, and pull the lever embedded in the rear of the pistol grip. This small lever will extract the larger mechanism from the rear of the pistol grip. (The Main Spring Housing) Once at about a 90% angle from its original position, pull downward (toward the bottom of the pistol grip) to remove the rear pin completely. Set this piece aside.
3. Pull the bolt out the rear of the pistol. Set this piece aside.
4. Point the muzzle end of the barrel towards the sky. Hold barrel in left hand with the bottom of frame pointed toward your right. Set the rear of the barrel on a soft surface, such as a magazine or work mat. With a rubber mallet or a plastic hammer hit the front of the frame where it touches the barrel, hit it down towards the ground. This will remove the frame from barrel.
5. Now that the gun is fully disassembled clean it.

Reassembly:

1. Hold the muzzle end of the barrel, pointed downwards towards the ground, and resting on a soft surface. Hold barrel in you left hand and attach the grip frame. Hit the butt end of the frame where it touches the barrel, down toward he ground to seat the frame back on to the barrel.
2. Now insert the bolt into the rear of the barrel. The spring side of the bolt should be facing the top part of the barrel.
3. The barrel must be kept vertical, pointed towards the ground. Now insert Main Spring Housing pin (item from step 1 in the Disassembly instructions) into the cavity in the rear of the pistol grip. The long pin will slide up through the back of the frame & barrel.
4. Swing the pivot pin arm 90% away from frame and hit this arm of mechanism to drive pin to its fully seated position. The pin should stick out of the hole in the rear of the barrel about 1/16 inch. DON'T CLOSE THE ARM INTO THE PISTOL FRAME YET! Set the gun down.
5. Hold your left hand in front of you, palm up. Put gun upside down in left hand with barrel pointed away from you. The magazine slot will be pointed towards the sky, strait up12 o’clock.
6. Place your left thumb in trigger guard housing (don't pull the trigger yet.)
7. Insert magazine locking it in place. For a Target model jump ahead to step 8. For a 22/45 model, with your right thumb push the magazine release button once. The magazine will pop out of the bottom of the frame about ¼ of an inch only.
8. Cup your left hand around the barrel, now pull trigger fully 5 times with your left thumb. On 5th pull do not release trigger. Don't release trigger for the remaining duration of assembly.
9. For a 22/45 model remove magazine with your right hand and place on table. For target model you do not need to remove magazine
10. With your left hand point the muzzle end of the barrel straight up 12 o’clock, now we are going back off barrel 5 degrees away from you, so the end of the barrel will be pointed more at 1 o’clock. Please hold in that position.
11. Please swing Main Spring Hosing closed. There should be some spring tension the last 1/8-inch on insertion. DON'T LOCK IN PLACE IF THERE IS NOT SPRING PRESSURE! If no tension please swing arm open and repeat process looking for spring tension. Only lock down after you feel this spring tension.
12. Please release the trigger and hold pistol in a normal way.
13. To check the action, please pull bolt back 3 times, and let it go. (It should slide smoothly and will cock the gun). If bolt does not feel smooth and will not cock firearm please repeat steps 7 through 13.
14. Please point firearm in a safe direction and insert an empty magazine and pull the trigger. You should hear the pistol dry fire.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
I just bought one of these last week and drove myself NUTS trying to get it back together. Seriously, I was cussing in languages I don't even know! This is the only weapon I have ever owned that the manual tells you that you might have to hit it with a hammer to take it down and put it back together. :shock:

Point it down, insert mag, pull trigger, drop mag, point it toward the ceiling, stand on your left leg while whistling Dixie, insert mag, pull trigger, drop mag, sacrifice a chicken, use a mallet to reinsert the assembly, say a prayer...when you're done if the bolt doesn't cycle start over. :twisted:

At least I think those are the steps I followed. It didn't blow up when I fired it the next day so I guess it worked.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
624 Posts
I gave up on mine. I do not have the patience to jump through hoops disassembling and reassembling my Mark III. I'm just going to run a bore snake through it & use patches with forcepts where I can reach. When it quits working, I'll take it to the gunshop & pay them $25 to tear it down & clean it. As far as shooting it....it is one of my favorites.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Hello new to the forums here. I just purchased a Mark III Hunter Target model and I am also having issues with reassembly. I have watched this video in this thread and also followed step by step the instructions posted on here as sent by Ruger. I feel I have followed every step and tip to the letter but when I try to close the mainspring housing it gets within 3/4" of completely closing but is hitting on something.

I have made sure the hammer strut is free from the crosspin and the hammer or "cheese" is fully up. I tilt the barrel up and have the hammer strut freely move and then try to insert the mainspring and it looks like the strut will hit the mainspring housing just right in its slot but no go. Any other help would be greatly appreciated. I am about to go bonkers and was hoping to get to shoot it over this weekend. I have only shot about 250 rounds through it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,373 Posts
Pulled the trigger? Sounds like your very close to completing it. It gets tons easier the more you do it. I can get my Mark II together in a few minutes.

Hello new to the forums here. I just purchased a Mark III Hunter Target model and I am also having issues with reassembly. I have watched this video in this thread and also followed step by step the instructions posted on here as sent by Ruger. I feel I have followed every step and tip to the letter but when I try to close the mainspring housing it gets within 3/4" of completely closing but is hitting on something.

I have made sure the hammer strut is free from the crosspin and the hammer or "cheese" is fully up. I tilt the barrel up and have the hammer strut freely move and then try to insert the mainspring and it looks like the strut will hit the mainspring housing just right in its slot but no go. Any other help would be greatly appreciated. I am about to go bonkers and was hoping to get to shoot it over this weekend. I have only shot about 250 rounds through it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
127,151 Posts
You have to use a lot more force than you think. Just a little less than it would take to break it. The first time you strip apart a Ruger .22 will be harsh and you may wind up using a mallet. The first time I ever did it took me well over an hour from disassembly to reassembly. But that's just the first time. After that, it gets a lot easier.

Amen to that!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,135 Posts
I have a Ruger MK II Government Target Competition model, Stainless with right handed cocobolo grips, 6.875 in slab sided bull barrel. For so long I dicked with the stupid thing dis/reassembling. Talked to a guy at a gun store that I was having problems with it not ejecting rounds at all every 4-5 shots. Gunsmith told me I clean and oil it too much. He said with the Mark I & II's you only need to clean them every 1000 rounds or so. I took that advise and have never had a problem since. That was 7 years ago.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,510 Posts
It's such a pain, I haven't field stripped my MKIII in over a year... Just a real good spray with CLP and a bore snake, but after watching the Majestic Arms video and reading through the instructions, I decided to order the Speed Strip kit and give it a try.

Thanks for the info on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,676 Posts
I just bought a MKIII 22/45. I read the directions about six times. Made a few dry runs with the gun in my hands. Read the directions a few more times after that making sure I understood everything I was reading. The first time I took it apart was still pretty brutal. I've taken it apart a few times since then. I shot the pistol for the first time today shooting 150 rounds through it and it does seem to be a little easier. It not a fun gun to clean but after you learn the tricks it's not all that bad.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top