[Añejo]

I have a tracking number and hopefully a new 10mm XDM OSP coming soon, as well as a Holosun 507C-GR V2 to attach. However, the manuals currently available make no reference to procedures and tools for removing cover plate, nor are there parts diagrams or lists specific to the OSP variation. Anyone know of such? I PROBABLY have the necessary tools but prefer to be prepared, and I assume there is a very good chance someone at the factory end may have used threadlocker that requires a heat release to avoid stripping out screws. Anyone already done this or have a link to a tutorial? This is a nice FAQ for us newbies and an encouraging sign. Thanks!

 

[Jester560]

All you need is a T10 torx bit. I didnt have to use heat to get mine off. They do use a dab of blue loctite on the screws. Even the spare screws have blue loctite on them. Don't stress out over this. When you see it, it is really, really simple.

The Holosun uses the same plate as a Trijicon RMR.

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[Gregg1LE]

I used some Kroil (penetrating oil) the night before down the head of the bolts to loosen. Make sure your high quality bits fit the head of the bolts perfectly.

 

[Añejo]

Thanks to all. I have the torx bits from Brownell’s so I’m set for tools. And I will use Kroil AND heat prior to tools.

Here’s why I’m so cautious. Other people report problems extracting the OSP cover plate screws. Plus, my own experience with a different pistol last week. I just had to send a slide to SIG from a P365XL because the cover plate screws were soft and I failed to use enough heat before one screw stripped. I used the exact bit (T8, incidentally — and SIG tells folks a 2mm or 5/64” hex is appropriate. ) and it took 45 seconds of heat from a soldering iron for the one successful extraction). SIG had made no mention of threadlocker but apparently one of their support staff confirmed Loctite was used. Makes sense for a screw riding the slide. SIG puts a dab of blue Loctite on the screws for mounting the Romeo Zero.

I’m 500 miles by air from a gunsmith.

 

[TrebXD]

I recently went through the same process on my new OSP. With heat, the rear and right front screw came out. I broke my Brownells T10 bit and stripped another on the left front screw. I drilled off the screw head and finished the extraction with a small left-handed drill bit.

I also used liberal amounts of Kroil throughout the process.

On my slide, one corner the left front hole penetrates through to the underside of the slide. The other two holes are blind.

I had already registered my warranty so I called Springfield. They seemed to prefer I leave a voice mail, so I left my serial number and requested three replacement screws. We'll see if they follow through.

 

[Añejo]

I recently went through the same process on my new OSP. With heat, the rear and right front screw came out. I broke my Brownells T10 bit and stripped another on the left front screw. I drilled off the screw head and finished the extraction with a small left-handed drill bit.

I also used liberal amounts of Kroil throughout the process.

On my slide, one corner the left front hole penetrates through to the underside of the slide. The other two holes are blind.

I had already registered my warranty so I called Springfield. They seemed to prefer I leave a voice mail, so I left my serial number and requested three replacement screws. We'll see if they follow through.

Anyone recall which OSP plate number is for RMR?

 

[Añejo]

Never mind, only one fit the Holosun (duh). T10 after using soldering iron on screws. Wouldn’t recommend skipping heat, but you might get away with it.

 

[Shev]

Thanks to all. I have the torx bits from Brownell’s so I’m set for tools. And I will use Kroil AND heat prior to tools.

Here’s why I’m so cautious. Other people report problems extracting the OSP cover plate screws. Plus, my own experience with a different pistol last week. I just had to send a slide to SIG from a P365XL because the cover plate screws were soft and I failed to use enough heat before one screw stripped. I used the exact bit (T8, incidentally — and SIG tells folks a 2mm or 5/64” hex is appropriate. ) and it took 45 seconds of heat from a soldering iron for the one successful extraction). SIG had made no mention of threadlocker but apparently one of their support staff confirmed Loctite was used. Makes sense for a screw riding the slide. SIG puts a dab of blue Loctite on the screws for mounting the Romeo Zero.

I’m 500 miles by air from a gunsmith.

How did it work out. I am ready to install my red dot and I am wondering what kind of heat is everyone talking about? Flame ?

 

[Shev]

All you need is a T10 torx bit. I didnt have to use heat to get mine off. They do use a dab of blue loctite on the screws. Even the spare screws have blue loctite on them. Don't stress out over this. When you see it, it is really, really simple.

The Holosun uses the same plate as a Trijicon RMR.

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Hi I am inquiring on the Torx bit t10. Did you use a drill when using the Torx T-10 or did you have a T10 Screwdriver? I am in same situation so I am just trying to purchase the correct tools I need. Thanks for your help.

 

[LivingUpNorth]

I would only use the T-10 screwdriver. There aren’t many threads on those screws, so it’s not like your arm will get tired trying to unscrew them. Also, being that small, they’re easy to strip if you’re not careful and a power tool won’t give you as much control.


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[Jester560]

Hi I am inquiring on the Torx bit t10. Did you use a drill when using the Torx T-10 or did you have a T10 Screwdriver? I am in same situation so I am just trying to purchase the correct tools I need. Thanks for your help.

I used a screwdriver. I would never use nor advise someone else to use a drill for this.

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