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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Mossy 500 I'm not planning to hunt with anymore, have a winchester for that now. I converting the Mossy into HD gun with a new barrel, either 18.5 or 20". My question is, what would the best finish be for matte black instead of the gloss blueing? I'm going to refinish the wood to black as well.
 

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do you have a picture? is the reciver aluminum?
 

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Here is my Mossberg 500 Slugster.
Mine had the parkerized finish. A good friend of mine is a Lauer Certified
DuraCoat refinisher. I had Gary cut an old Western Field barrel to 18.5".
He then refinished the receiver, the 18.5" barrel and the slug rifled barrel in tactical od green. All other pieces were refinished in tactical black.
I have added a picainny rail, also DuraCoated , and have replaced the stock with a Knoxx Stock. Plan to put a Bussis FastFire on the rail.

Love this shotty!

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm not sure if the receiver is aluminim or not it's about 35 years old and been a faithful hunter for that time. I want to convert to HD since I now have a Winchester mod 12 and remington 16 ga fieldmaster. I want to get everything lined up so that once I start the coversion I won't be waiting on parts etc. The furniture is staying on just getting refinished and some texture added. I going to try and make it an old style cruiser. Looking for a finish that I can do at home.
 

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The receiver on my 500AT is aluminum. Otherwise, I would rust blue it. Instead, I just scuffed it and shot a coat of Rust-Oleum to it. I used the high-temp stuff, and it's holding up well.
 

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Moly Resin by Norell, nuff said. Everything on the market is lightyears away from DuraCoat (DuraCrap is more descriptive, it's okay for polymer, but not for metals).

Anything bake on like Moly Resin or KG GunKote is good to go. CeraKote is great, but takes knowledge to get it just right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Non...hadn't seen that kit before...OEM 20" barrel alone is $150 through even Mossberg...Just need to find the matte finish I want now
 

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Last time I checked, DuraCoat is a "bake on" finish.
It's a very good product, if you prep properly.
Duracoat does not require baking. You can bake it to speed up the hardening process.

I Duracoated my sons Mossberg 500. I'm very happy with the finish, it was easy to apply.
 

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This is one of our old shotty that needed to be saved. We decided to get it coated..
 

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This is one of our old shotty that needed to be saved. We decided to get it coated..
That turned out VERY nice.

Duracoat does not require baking. You can bake it to speed up the hardening process.

I Duracoated my sons Mossberg 500. I'm very happy with the finish, it was easy to apply.

You are correct, I misread the info, thanks for the correction.
Anyrate, the Norell Moly Resin is a wonderful product. I just know the success that people have had when Gary at Oakridge Custom Finishings applied the DuraCoat.

It works for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The literature says you do not need to parkerize before duracoat...How does the finish hold up if you don't parkerize?
 

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The literature says you do not need to parkerize before duracoat...How does the finish hold up if you don't parkerize?
Very well.

I didn't parkerize my sons shotgun. Just blasted it with 180 grit Aluminum Oxide. Degreased it, and sprayed the Duracoat on.



Did it over a year and a half ago, he's shot it a bunch since then, still can't see any wear on the mag tube from the slide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Still looks good...I don't have access to the "sand blaster" equipment...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Does the molyresin work better with bead blasting first?
 

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Still looks good...I don't have access to the "sand blaster" equipment...

I didn't either, but I did have a compressor. I bought a cheap $25 blasting gun from Northern Tool.
 

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Does the molyresin work better with bead blasting first?
\
Bead Blasting causes a smooth finish, not comparable to applying a coat of color. you need a 'rough' finish on your metal/polymer for their to be a surface for the color to stick to. Aluminum oxide or anything "flat/disk'' shaped is the way to go.
 

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You are correct, I misread the info, thanks for the correction.
Anyrate, the Norell Moly Resin is a wonderful product. I just know the success that people have had when Gary at Oakridge Custom Finishings applied the DuraCoat.

Doing it yourself and having Oakridge CUSTOM FINISHINGS do it for you are two very different things. For the DIY'er a bake on coat with Moly Resin is far superior. I've coated at least 60 firearms with everything from DuraCoat to MolyResin and everything in between. DuraCoat is at the bottom of the spectrum regarding durability on firearms.
 
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