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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had a 9mm misfire on Saturday that I am scratching my head about. Shot 13 rounds out of 16 round magazine. On the 14th round, I noticed my XD9 Tactical did not go back fully into battery. I could not get the slide to move backwards more than about 1/8". Notified the RO and he took the XD to the gunsmith room. He was able to remove the stuck brass. He then noticed that the lead bullet was stuck in the barrel. He was able to extract that also. In looking at my XD he said that it needed to be cleaned. I hadn't cleaned it after the last trip of about 50 rounds so I thought all would be fine. When I took the XD down, I noticed unburnt powder all over the inside.

So was the primer a dud but had enough umph to jam the bullet in the barrel but not ignite the powder? Is it possible to ignite just a portion of the powder?

I am using once fired brass, CCI small pistol primers and Hodgdon HP38 powder (4.3gr), 9mm Parabellum
115 Grain 9MM RN from Missouri Bullet Company. No problems so far. I've reloaded and shot over 500 round using this recipe.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks!
Rob
 

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Had a 9mm misfire on Saturday that I am scratching my head about. Shot 13 rounds out of 16 round magazine. On the 14th round, I noticed my XD9 Tactical did not go back fully into battery. I could not get the slide to move backwards more than about 1/8". Notified the RO and he took the XD to the gunsmith room. He was able to remove the stuck brass. He then noticed that the lead bullet was stuck in the barrel. He was able to extract that also. In looking at my XD he said that it needed to be cleaned. I hadn't cleaned it after the last trip of about 50 rounds so I thought all would be fine. When I took the XD down, I noticed unburnt powder all over the inside.

So was the primer a dud but had enough umph to jam the bullet in the barrel but not ignite the powder? Is it possible to ignite just a portion of the powder?

I am using once fired brass, CCI small pistol primers and Hodgdon HP38 powder (4.3gr), 9mm Parabellum
115 Grain 9MM RN from Missouri Bullet Company. No problems so far. I've reloaded and shot over 500 round using this recipe.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks!
Rob
Are you saying the round fired, or the slide jammed before you fired the round? Your wording is a tad confusing:confused:
 

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Yep I too am confused.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sorry for the confusion. I pulled the trigger and then noticed the slide didn't return to battery. The bullet lodged in the barrel and brass did not eject. Hope that helps.
 

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Sorry for the confusion. I pulled the trigger and then noticed the slide didn't return to battery. The bullet lodged in the barrel and brass did not eject. Hope that helps.
Right.... but did the round fire and THEN not return to battery... or did it not return to battery BEFORE you tried to fire it.

Theres a big difference.
 

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SOunds like you had a squib; no powder & the primer has enough force to put the bullet into the bbl. There would be no recoil, very little report, very dangerous. If it fired & then FT chamber, it could be your OAL is too long & you are jambing the bullet itno the bbl preventing chambering. Pulling the slide back pulled the case out but left the bullet, spilling powder. The XD has a very short throat, you have to match the OAL to the bullet & gun. You probably had one slightly long. Always apply a slight taper crimp. I have shot 500+ lead rds thru my XD45 before cleaning, it's not that.
 

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I have been shooting my reloads now for about 1 1/2 years. Started with store bought fmj 9mm bullets. Then I begin casting and reloading lead. I had 2 squibs back in the beginning and none since I inspect every round for the amount of powder. The primer without powder will push the bullet into the barrel. No amount of caution on the safe side can be enough. However now thousands of round later, I have experienced fewer bad bullets with my reloads than I have from store bought bullets. I have found that when I shoot lead in an IDPA match I will shoot 4 or 5 stages with lead and then change to copper fmj to shoot the last 1 or 2 stages. This cleans any leading from the barrel and makes cleaning a snap. Over all attention to detail is the critical part of reloading. I is sure fun and much cheaper than anything you can buy.
 

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Maybe you mean the slide didn't cycle? I agree with Fred sounds like a squib.
 

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I have been shooting my reloads now for about 1 1/2 years. Started with store bought fmj 9mm bullets. Then I begin casting and reloading lead. I had 2 squibs back in the beginning and none since I inspect every round for the amount of powder. The primer without powder will push the bullet into the barrel. No amount of caution on the safe side can be enough. However now thousands of round later, I have experienced fewer bad bullets with my reloads than I have from store bought bullets. I have found that when I shoot lead in an IDPA match I will shoot 4 or 5 stages with lead and then change to copper fmj to shoot the last 1 or 2 stages. This cleans any leading from the barrel and makes cleaning a snap. Over all attention to detail is the critical part of reloading. I is sure fun and much cheaper than anything you can buy.
This may be part of your problem. An old shooters tail, chasing a lead bullet w/ copper doesn't push the lead out but irons it into the smallest recesses in the bbl. For best results, shoot lead thru your bbl only, never mix & match. Copper has a higher coeff of friction & actually can strip the lead form the bullet & bond it to the copper. It isn't good for accuracy & can make leading worse. If you are getting any significant leading, then you aren't doing something right; alloy or bullet fit or powder or lube or alll of it.
Are you sizing your lead bullets or shooting them as cast? This could easily be part of your problem. Bullets will vary insize a bit as you cast. Mold temp, allloy temp & alloy composition can vary a bullet by 0.0015" in dia. So some will be a perfect fit, some too big, some to small. In some semiautos, this isn't going to work well, especially shooting mixed brass. You will get the occasional oversized round, that could very well be your issue.
 

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This may be part of your problem. An old shooters tail, chasing a lead bullet w/ copper doesn't push the lead out but irons it into the smallest recesses in the bbl. For best results, shoot lead thru your bbl only, never mix & match. Copper has a higher coeff of friction & actually can strip the lead form the bullet & bond it to the copper. It isn't good for accuracy & can make leading worse. If you are getting any significant leading, then you aren't doing something right; alloy or bullet fit or powder or lube or alll of it.
Are you sizing your lead bullets or shooting them as cast? This could easily be part of your problem. Bullets will vary insize a bit as you cast. Mold temp, allloy temp & alloy composition can vary a bullet by 0.0015" in dia. So some will be a perfect fit, some too big, some to small. In some semiautos, this isn't going to work well, especially shooting mixed brass. You will get the occasional oversized round, that could very well be your issue.
It does push SOME out. I have seen lead flakes reflecting in bright sunlight after fireing a jacketed bullet after lead in the .41. It ALSO irons in a significant amount. Enough to say "cleaning out" lead is a myth.
 

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It does push SOME out. I have seen lead flakes reflecting in bright sunlight after fireing a jacketed bullet after lead in the .41. It ALSO irons in a significant amount. Enough to say "cleaning out" lead is a myth.
Well, exactly my point. While some lead will be pushed out, micro pieces will be ironed in then plated over w/ copper fouling. Not good for accuracy or even safty if left unattended. May times guys that complain about leading w/ a particular gun are jumping back & forth w/o cleaning. Go w a clean bbl & stay w/ one bullet type for best results. Same goes for guys shooting moly coated anything. DOn't go back & forth between types for best results.
 
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