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I have recently ordered an RRA Elite CAR A4 (6-8 weeks for delivery damn it :x ) and I was wondering if the bulk Wolf ammo available through Cabelas would cause any problems. I have read that if it is the non-lacquired (sp?) that it will work fine but the lacquired stuff will gum everything up.

I have tried to find info on whether or not bulk wolf from Cabela's is lacquired or not but have not found anything useful. I know that Wolf has non-lacquired available but I'm not sure if Cabelas bulk is.

Thanks in advance for any info.
 

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I'm not sure if the packaging is any different. Gander Mountain has about a case of Wolf .223 on the shelf. I'd buy it, but I'm not sure if I know how to tell the difference between the old and new.
 

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The laquered comes in a green military case and the polymer is a gray case. I'm talking about the actual bullet case, not the case it's packed in. Some of the wolf polymer will have a "P" on the packaging for polymer, but I have also bought some with out the "P" that were polymer.
 

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Wolf is not nearly as bad as some poeple like to say, eventhe lacquer in my opinion. Buy it and enjoy shooting a lot of it for cheap. :wink:
 

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If you look on the AR-15 site, you'll find guys who have shot thousands upon thousands of rounds of it. I have put a thousand or so through my Olympic AR-15 and have had good results! It's even fairly accurate for the cost.

Go for it and enjoy!
 

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Ive read all the horror storys about Wolf but all threeof my rifles shoot it just fine, even the old green stuff. It does stink to high hell but nothing to trash the round over. To make things even better the 55gr. FMJ shoots to the same point of aim as my Q3131A Winchester ammo. The groups are not as tight but for plinking ammo you cant beat it!


BKVic
 

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From - www.ammo-oracle.com


Q. Is Wolf-brand (or other steel-cased) .223 ammo okay to shoot in my AR15?

Well, if you didn't start a flame war with the M193 v. M855 question, you have now.

Many former Eastern-Bloc countries use steel ammo casings in place of brass, as the cost of steel is much less. The steel casings would quickly rust if left untreated, so one of four methods is used to treat the steel cases: "copper-washing," lacquer, "nickel" (really zinc) plating, or most recently, polymer coating. Copper-washed ammo is a blotchy bronze color, and usually the entire loaded round is coated, leaving the bullet and case the same bronzy color. Copper-washed ammo is usually only found in the East-Bloc calibers.

Until recently, lacquered cases were the type most commonly found. The outside of the steel case is covered in a grey or green heat-resistant lacquer to inhibit rust. There have been some problems with the lacquer, though, as it tended to leave drips and runs on the cases, which can make extraction more difficult. Until recently, most Russian and Czech-made ammo used this method.

Recently, the Barnaul plant began offering zinc-plated ammo under the name Silver Bear. Aside from some problems with incorrectly-sized cases, this ammo seems to work well, but the zinc process is more expensive, and as a result, the price of the loaded ammo is a little higher.

Most recently (near the beginning of 2004), Wolf announced that their new ammo would be polymer coated. The polymer process leaves smoother cases than the lacquer, but is much less expensive than the zinc plating. To date, no problems have been encountered as a result of the polymer coating, making the new process an overall success.

There have been problems with steel-cased ammo. Through 2002, Wolf ammo came with a thick red sealant around the primer and on the neck of the bullet. This sealant was the cause of many problems, as it would build up and become sticky under high heat, leading to severe extraction problems as cases would literally be "glued" into the chamber. It would also gum up the firing pin channel and bolt face, causing further problems. Wolf wisely dropped the sealant on their .223 ammo in 2003, and reports of problems have dropped off considerably.

There is still some understandable apprehension with using steel-cased ammo in .223. Unlike the Soviet-designed cases, the 5.56 cartridge has very little taper to the case and its length to diameter ratio is very large. The result of this is that 5.56 ammo has more friction during cartridge extraction and comparatively less extractor surface area. This usually isn't a problem with brass cases, but with steel cases, especially lacquer-coated case, stoppages are more frequent. This is likely to due with the difference in expansion/retraction properties between brass and steel.

These problems aren't limited to .223 either, as some guns, such as the HK USP line of pistols, is notorious for having feeding and extraction problems with steel-cased ammo.

Still, the Russian ammo manufacturers have been steadily improving their products, and many have found that problems experienced with older ammo aren't present in the current offerings. Plus, the competition from this bargain ammo helps keep the cost of all .223/5.56 loads reasonable, which is good for all shooters.
 

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Wolf Ammo, although reliable and inexpensive, is not the best choice of ammo for an AR Mil. Spec. type weapon. The AR Mil Spec. designs are best fired with brass cartridges which have soft cases. Steel case cartridges, such as Wolf uses, are o.k. for use in a manual cocking action firearm but in a tighter tolerance semi-automatic, such as the AR it may cause the extractor to wear prematurely. Sure, this is an inexpensive part to replace, but if it were to fail at the wrong time..... :shock: Stick with brass cased ammo for your AR. You can collect the used cases and reload them of recycle them. If steel cases were better overall for the AR, then the military would be using them.

:idea: Unless you like the smell of hot ammonia, the first time you smell the gas from the .223 Wolf cartridge, you will probally not want to fire it again anyway.
 

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I have run lots (thousands) of rounds of Wolf therough my various guns at this point, and have had no particular problems.

I still use a lot of it in my .45s, which admittedly have kind of sloppy chambers to start with.

MY XD9 likes Wolf ok, but I have bought other stuff (Blazer) because it was cheaper.

My AR clone (DPMS) doesn't mind a diet of Wolf, but shoots better with S&B which I also get cheaper.

I clean fairly well after using Wolf, but not much differently than I would after anything else.
 
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