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What is the proper way to lube an XD? With my Glocks I used the "5 drops of oil" method and it always worked well. I figure the XD is similar enough that it would work on it as well. I use Militec-1, and I put a drop on each slide rail and let it run down, a drop on the inside of the slide above the barrel and rub it in, a drop or two on the barrel itself and rub it on good, and a drop on the lugs and wipe it good with a Q-tip. Anything else I should be doing?
 

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I do a little of both, grease the slide rail and oil everything else.I was told by a Marine Corps armorer to make sure any weapon I had with a stainless slide was lubed properly.He told me that the stainless was softer than the regular slides,so they galled easier.He recommended a high quality grease rather than oil ,because in firing the grease would stay put better so the slide would'nt ever cycle dry.I have been doing this on all my pistols for years stainless or not and they are still in great shape.
 

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I don't use grease, but that's just me. I find that it attracts & holds dirt & other undesirable contaminants. And, grease seems to slow things down, especially in cooler weather. Personally I have found that synthetic motor oil works very well for firearm lubrication.
The other thing I have discovered about lubrication of guns is this...........Everyone has his or her preferred method, and except for a few exceptions, (such as the folks that swear by WD-40 :rolleyes:) everybody is right. Just find out what you like & use it. I don't know how many different types of lubricant I have used in the last 35 or so years, (that's how I found out about the grease) but I like what I use now. Who knows? Someday, maybe tomorrow, there will be a miracle lube introduced that will solve all of our problems! :cool:
 

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I used Militec-1 until a chemical engineer-type friend 'enlightened' me to it's 'chlorination' properties. Personally speaking I no longer will use it on anything I wish to keep long-term, fwiw.

Now it's just some moly-grease on sliderails and synthetic oil in other locales.
 

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Mainly I use something like outers, or 3 in one because I like the smell, and it seems to work OK. Tried grease, it DID gum up, attract powder residue, and generally make a mess in my .22 pistol, but rimfires get dirty FAST! Haven't tried it since, but I take a Q-tip, wrap the cotton on the tip tighter (so it doesn't leave lint), and put the oil all down the inside of the slide so it appears wet. Then I put drips of oil on anything that contacts other metal, go back and wipe off the excess with a blue shop towell. You'll see where the powder residue accumulates after you clean it, and those areas need to have excess oil removed so it doesn't hold the gunk. I probably use too much oil, but I have a .22 marlin from the '70s that still fires very reliably, and has little wear. It was my dads, it's had a few of those big bulk .22 ammo boxes through it. You know the one they had to shorten the magazine tube to hold less shots because of the assault weapons ban! :rolleyes: Mine is one of the original 18 round tubes :D. Try and keep the oil down in the breech area because it will gunk up FAST if you leave too much in there. Just enough to protect the metal from rust.
 

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I use Tetra gun grease on the slide and G96 spray on everything else and I use both lightly. Tetra is made to lightly rub into the metal and it embeds into the metal pores,so you don't have a lot of grease to attract dirt.
I lightly use the G96 on all the other moving parts. I do a light strip & clean after every shooting session and I never have had any issues with reliablity.
 

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I don't use grease, but that's just me. I find that it attracts & holds dirt & other undesirable contaminants. And, grease seems to slow things down, especially in cooler weather. Personally I have found that synthetic motor oil works very well for firearm lubrication.
The other thing I have discovered about lubrication of guns is this...........Everyone has his or her preferred method, and except for a few exceptions, (such as the folks that swear by WD-40 :rolleyes:) everybody is right. Just find out what you like & use it. I don't know how many different types of lubricant I have used in the last 35 or so years, (that's how I found out about the grease) but I like what I use now. Who knows? Someday, maybe tomorrow, there will be a miracle lube introduced that will solve all of our problems! :cool:
Solve our problems? SOLVE OUR PROBLEMS?? It's an XD! :)

There were a lot of reasons why I bought my XD, but one was that it's built like a tank. I clean mine, and lube it (well, breakfree CLP residue is what's on mine, sometimes out of guilt I use a little generic gun oil), but I don't worry about it at all.

The 20,000-round torture test sold me. If an XD can make it through a test like that, mine will be just fine with whatever basic maintenance I choose.
 

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Do I oil the outside of the part between the barrel and the feed ramp. The part that has the serial number and caliber. Also is it called the breach, if not what is it called.
 

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I was just thinking the same thing Anto. Having owned XDs and Glocks for years, neither are very lube sensitive at all. I am convinced that you could lube either one with bacon grease and it would be ok. Having said that, I am a huge fan of synthetic grease on certain areas of XDs & Glocks (and other other semi-autos of course). There are plenty of good products out there, but I am hooked on TW-25B (Mil-comm I think) synthetic grease. I've had this same $7 tube for years and it is a wonderful product. I put a dab on the frame's (rails) and normally a little on the barrel's hood and sides. The thing I like about synthetic grease is that provide great lubrication, it stays put, and seem to not attract dirt and grime like other products. I still use high quality oil in certain areas, however, for the load bearing surfaces, I am sold on syn-grease.

I prefer grease on the slide rails, everything else sounds good.
 

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That's also a good point! I am convinced that XDs are not lube sensitive @ all based on the grueling 20k torture test; not to mention my own experience with them. If it can cycle bone dry with mud, dirt, sand, etc....it's not going to care very much when its super clean sliding on Mobil 1, Militec-1, or Tetra Gun. I keep my lubing costs as low as possible with my XD and my Glocks. They just seem to work no matter what.

Solve our problems? SOLVE OUR PROBLEMS?? It's an XD! :)

There were a lot of reasons why I bought my XD, but one was that it's built like a tank. I clean mine, and lube it (well, breakfree CLP residue is what's on mine, sometimes out of guilt I use a little generic gun oil), but I don't worry about it at all.

The 20,000-round torture test sold me. If an XD can make it through a test like that, mine will be just fine with whatever basic maintenance I choose.
 

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Do I oil the outside of the part between the barrel and the feed ramp. The part that has the serial number and caliber. Also is it called the breach, if not what is it called.

If your talking the outside exposed area with the serial# and cal,then no. Being open as they are,if they were greased they would attract a lot of dust/dirt etc. I do lightly spray that area with G-96 and then rub most of it off with a cloth.
 

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When I clean my XD, I usually field strip, let the main parts sit for a couple of hours after applying just enough CLP to cover metallic surfaces , brush down internal surfaces with brass or nylon brush depending on the finish, then wipe off excess with patches or q-tips, other than maybe a couple of drops of oil on the front slide rails, that's about all the lubrication use on my XD.
 

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I've been wondering the same thing here lately. I've been using Rem-Oil on most of my weapons of late, but it seems to dissipate fairly rapidly over time, and I'm not sure that's a good thing for the semi's, which have alot more friction-bearing surfaces than revolvers, bolt guns, and etc. I used to use the old military LSA (lubricant, small-arms) on my 1911. It had more staying power, but sometimes did get a little gummy as the more volatile components evaporated over time.

Being a polymer scientist (specialized chemist), I suppose it might be interesting to analyze the compositions of the common lubes, synthetic oils, etc. (if the companies will provide the info). The synthetic motor oils all have polymers dispersed in the oil to help maintain the rheology (viscosity vs. temperature etc.) of the oil, along with a bunch of additives like anti-oxidants designed for protecting the oil and the engine's metal parts at high temperatures in the presence of small amounts of water (fuel combustion makes CO2 and water, along with other nasties). Some products chemically bond to the surface of the metal for a longer-lasting protection, while some are just simple lubricants to prevent direct metal-to-metal contact. The thinner, lower viscosity oils typically will have a higher vapor pressure which makes them evaporate more quickly. The thicker oils and grease type materials should stay much longer under the same conditions, and for this reason may also tend to hold onto powder residues, dust, and other funk that could eventually slow the action, seize the firing pin, etc.

However, it probably would be quicker for some of you "old.. I mean, experienced, guys" to fess up about what you've been feeding your auto pistols for years with good results... :D

Good shooting and lubing,
Alchemist77
 

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I used Militec-1 until a chemical engineer-type friend 'enlightened' me to it's 'chlorination' properties. Personally speaking I no longer will use it on anything I wish to keep long-term, fwiw.

Now it's just some moly-grease on sliderails and synthetic oil in other locales.
I started to use Militec b/c we were issued some in the USMC, but after it stained my M16 i no longer used it for lube. I have used it however as a metal treatment, i put it liberally on all the metal2metal parts of my guns and bake em in the oven for 10 minutes at 275, cool down and repeat twice more. Militec will gunk up and change colors (to a rusty reddish) if you leave it on metal parts for a period of time though, i left some metal airgun parts in a plastic baggy for a month covered in militec as a rust inhibitor and when i opened it up the Militec was all gunky and reddish brown, and i think a spring rusted...
I use a mixture of molybdenum grease/motor oil to lube the slide and guide rod for shooting, i burnished moly into all the other sliding metal parts and i keep my sear assy pretty much dry to avoid the introduction of dirt into my highly polished sear contact surfaces. I clean with CLP so a very very light coat of that stays on all metal parts.
Ive shot a couple thousand rounds from my XD while using this concoction and the slide and the lug it slides on dont show hardly any wear.
For non-dusty or indoor shooting ill use more lube because it wont hurt anything, but the only lube that stays in my gun for SHTF is a wee bit in the rails and whatever traces of CLP remain from cleaning.

I also agree that there are plenty "correct" ways to maintain your firearms, some are better than others, you learn as you go along and stick with what works for you.
 

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I do not always field strip my weapons after every shoot. If I just do a basic cleaning I use a bore snake, with a good bore cleaner and rem oil. I then use synthetic safe gun scrub, and a all purpose gun cleaner to clean the feed ramp, face, extractor, and mag well. Then I spray the inside down with rem oil, before I close the slide. If I field strip it I spray every part down with rem oil, after cleaning before I put it back together.
 
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