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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys while cleaning my revolvers I found something very unfortunate on my ruger. It seems that the forcing cone is somehow damaged on the left side. It looks like it has rubbed or chipped off, pretty noticeable if you look hard. What could cause this? Timing? Is the cylinder hitting it every time it closes?
What gives? I thought these things were tanks!

Please advise. I love this gun.

Preview


The first two pictures are of the effected side. The last one is of the unaffected right side.


Another:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well I can see the problem. The damn cylinder hits the forcing cone every time it closes if the gun is tipped down or I push the cylinder forward. The cylinder must have too much play in it.

This sucks. Will ruger fix this?
 

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Looked on here just before I was going to leave to purchase the GP 100 4" blued. Do you think this is something I can witness to see if a new pistol has the issue, or do you think this was developed through use?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looked on here just before I was going to leave to purchase the GP 100 4" blued. Do you think this is something I can witness to see if a new pistol has the issue, or do you think this was developed through use?
I've had this revolver for about a year, and put roughly 600 rounds through it. I do not think it came this way from the factory.

I still think this is a great gun. Just because I'm having issues doesn't mean it's any less good, although it does slightly chap my ass. I say go for it. It's really tough and the trigger will get much better with use. I've dry fired mine many thousand times. Get some snap caps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Another problem. This one really pisses me off. It looks like the F'in barrel is peeling or something. Anyone know what the **** this is?!

It's all in the barrel, goes for about half an inch.
 

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Sounds like the cylinder is sliding forward when it shouldn't and Ruger should fix it. The cylinder should spin and not slide forward if the barrel is pointed down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Another picture.
 

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Another problem. This one really pisses me off. It looks like the F'in barrel is peeling or something. Anyone know what the **** this is?!

It's all in the barrel, goes for about half an inch.
Is it lead separating from the barrel? I can't tell from the picture.

Looks like you need to ship it back to Ruger for an eval and to fix the cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Is it lead separating from the barrel? I can't tell from the picture.

Looks like you need to ship it back to Ruger for an eval and to fix the cylinder.
If it is, it's a **** ton. I just scrubbed it with a bronze brush and a lot came off. I didn't think the loads I was shooting would lead so bad. They never have before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I think it was, snap. But why was it only on the first inch of the bore!

I just scrubbed my bore 100 times with a bronze brush. Since it is a lot softer than steel, using it this much won't hurt my barrel, right?
 

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I think it was, snap. But why was it only on the first inch of the bore!
If you're shooting lead reloads it only leads the first inch or so. You can scrub with a bronze brush for a week and still have lead.

You need either one of these:

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...ead-remover/lewis-lead-remover-prod21587.aspx

OR, get some copper pot scrubbers (MUST BE PURE COPPER) and wrap some of it around a brush and use that to scrub out the barrel.

Like this:

http://choreboyscrubbers.com/Products/Ultimate%20Scrubbers%20Pure%20Copper.aspx

I used to reload a bunch of lead bullets and I've switched completely to plated because I got tired of removing the lead. There are ways to load lead bullets and not lead, and guys like justsomeguy, 57k, and Fred on the reloading board can detail how to do it. I just spend a couple of pennies more and shoot plated.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I don't reload yet. These were federal 158 grain LRN that I had lying around. Only 50 rounds did this.

I've shot some of that old police trade in wad cutter stuff from SOSS and they didn't lead bad at all. Wtf gives?
 

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I don't reload yet. These were federal 158 grain LRN that I had lying around. Only 50 rounds did this.

I've shot some of that old police trade in wad cutter stuff from SOSS and they didn't lead bad at all. Wtf gives?
Yeah, they lead up pretty quick.

Good luck brother, it sounds like it's still going back to Ruger over the cylinder sliding down though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just spent an hour and 100 patches getting the bore reasonably clean. **** the cylinders. There's no way that is coming out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah, they lead up pretty quick.

Good luck brother, it sounds like it's still going back to Ruger over the cylinder sliding down though.
Do you know if all LRN factory loads lead like that? I haven't noticed it with the 3-D police trade in wad cutters or the PPU LRN. Just wondering.

One last question, do you know on the GP100 platform if they can just replace the forcing cone, or do they have to replace the whole barrel? Although I doubt the defect on my forcing cone affects performance, it will absolutely drive me insane.

And I'm sure ruger will maintain that it doesn't affect anything, but I want it replaced. It's an eyesore.
 

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Do you know if all LRN factory loads lead like that? I haven't noticed it with the 3-D police trade in wad cutters or the PPU LRN. Just wondering.

One last question, do you know on the GP100 platform if they can just replace the forcing cone, or do they have to replace the whole barrel? Although I doubt the defect on my forcing cone affects performance, it will absolutely drive me insane.

And I'm sure ruger will maintain that it doesn't affect anything, but I want it replaced. It's an eyesore.
I don't think all LRN's lead up, it depends on the velocity of the ammo and the diameter of the barrel vs the bullet.


But the forcing cone is part of the barrel, you can't replace it by itself. Bottom line though is the cylinder shouldn't be hitting it when you close it up and they should make it right.
 

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Call Ruger and let them know what's happening. Let us know how they take care of you. I've seen GP100s with thousands of rounds through them and no issues like that.
 

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Sucks to see this happen to your GP. I want a GP as my first wheel gun. It seems with all the reviews I've read of guns that Ruger has good CS so hopefully they take care of you as they should.
 

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Sucks you're having problems with your Ruger Nathan. Those are supposed to be some tough wheelguns...hopefully Ruger makes it right.

get some copper pot scrubbers (MUST BE PURE COPPER) and wrap some of it around a brush and use that to scrub out the barrel.

Like this:

http://choreboyscrubbers.com/Products/Ultimate%20Scrubbers%20Pure%20Copper.aspx
Just fyi, if you do buy some copper scrubbers like ChoreBoy, toss them in the trunk on the way home. Having them visible in your car is just begging for a free-air sniff from your local PD K-9 if you get pulled over.

To clarify for those who will overreact, ChoreBoy is used pretty religiously by crack addicts as a filter...

Just trying to save Nathan a headache...;)
 
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