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Parapet in-home/walls

2K views 16 replies 13 participants last post by  Groo 
#1 ·
Hi all,

I'm doing some remodeling on the 2nd floor of my house and have decided to fortify the walls at the top of the stairs so I have a defensive position in the home should the need for one ever arise.

I'm having a hard time finding an inexpensive and home friendly solution to put in my walls. Kevlar ceramic panels are very expensive and sand/dirt is not a good option to have in the home.

Can anyone think of an inexpensive and house friendly material for this purpose?
 
#3 ·
I have thought about you issue as well and have decided that if ever have pull the sheet rock down I am going to layer the spaces between the studs with a dual layer of 1.5" plywood subfloor material. No this does not make the area bullet proof but i have seen a 45 cal round it the material at an steep angle (greater then 45 degrees) and not penetrate. So it would add a layer of protection from small arms fire.
 
#6 ·
The plywood subfloor material in the voided is a good idea; perhaps widen the "parapet" to 2x6 instead of 2x4 and add additional layers.

You could also use cement board instead of drywall.

You could also consider designating one specific area as a "hard point", and put a sheet of steel beneath the surface covering.
 
#7 ·
If you have not already done so, go to the likely intruder entry point, and check out the area you want to fortify from that viewpoint. In my home, fortification would need to include not just the parapet walls, but the adjoining walls and the floors as well.

Good luck!
 
#8 ·
The plywood subfloor material in the voided is a good idea; perhaps widen the "parapet" to 2x6 instead of 2x4 and add additional layers.

You could also use cement board instead of drywall.

You could also consider designating one specific area as a "hard point", and put a sheet of steel beneath the surface covering.

I am not sure about cement board, when i was doing Tile install all we would do to cement board is cut the mesh and use a hammer to knock out the hole a pipe would have to go through.

Hardiebacker might be a better choice but only when you look at the 1/2 sheets and then they start adding up on the weight. but I like the idea of the 2x6 and maybe even sandwich a layer of expanded metal lath inbetween .
 
#9 ·
sheet steel layered with drywall and/or plywood.

design what you want (size and hole locations) then bring it to a fab shop with a plasma table.

2 or 3 layers of 3/16" AR400 sandwiching something else would be pretty bullet proof and not overly heavy or expensive.
 
#11 ·
Book cases is good.

sheet steel layered with drywall and/or plywood.

design what you want (size and hole locations) then bring it to a fab shop with a plasma table.

2 or 3 layers of 3/16" AR400 sandwiching something else would be pretty bullet proof and not overly heavy or expensive.
Layers is good too.

Layers with a brick façade with a bookcase in front then! LOL Maybe too heavy though...
 
#13 ·
Well, I'm sure you've already considered what your most likely ballistic threat is that you will need to defeat. I would got with sheets of OSB. It's not really expensive and not very heavy. You might want to do some testing to figure out how many sheets it takes to stop a .357 magnum.

Alternatively, you can get IIIa ballistic matting in bulk from China for relatively cheap. You just need to buy a lot of it, but if you want to line some walls and floors, it sounds like this may qualify.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Isn't sand VERY effective at stopping bullets?

The Box O' Truth #7 - The Sands O' Truth The Box O' Truth

The faster the bullet...the less it makes it thru

I wonder if a poor mans layered armor similar to chobham armor would work
Take some epoxy impregnated sand and make some 1/2" sheets, then layer that INSIDE your walls if it would at least slow a round to non lethal velocities...and/or use hardyplank

hardyplank, epoxy sand, hardyplank

Better yet, make a bunch of 4"x4" or 6"x6" and 1/2" non compressed "poor mans non compressed" ceramic plate, this way you can take a sheet of that hardyplank, then glue/epoxy those blocks inside it, then mount them between the studs...hmmmm

found some commercial stuff called Laticrete
 
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