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I am going to buuy a Dillion 650XL with the case feeder and mayber even the bullet feeder. I have been doing some research and I need to get a couple reloading books, what do you recommend? Do any of you get brass from local ranges or police depts? Other than say, Gun Broker, where should I get my brass? I plan to reload 9mm and 45ACP (eventually). Do any of you reload with new brass?
 

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I am going to buuy a Dillion 650XL with the case feeder and mayber even the bullet feeder.
Oh, you are? Do you plan on doing a lot (read 1,000+/month) of reloading? If not, I recommend you consider a smaller, less complicated, less expensive press setup. If you plan on reloading just to keep yourself in cheap ammo, you might want to look at some of the turret or smaller progressives from Lee, RCBS, and others. You'd be surprised what you can do with some of them. If you're planning on reloading for resale, I wouldn't, for many reasons - liability and insurance being the main one.

From my experience - if you get too automated, you lose quality in that you don't inspect as often as you should. I run a Lee turret. I prime off press, insert the shell by hand, and set the bullets manually. That gives me at least three check points where I look at and touch each case. Using a powder-thru die, I visually check each powder load as the turret comes around. I have no trouble keeping up with what I shoot up each week.

As for manuals, I recommend the Lyman's #49 and "The ABC's of Reloading". These are excellent.

I pick up my brass at the range. I've bought some from individuals online. I really see no need to buy new brass.
 

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Well, your pockets run deep & for a noob, that is fine, but understand that your learning curve w/ a semi automated press is steep. It's not that you can't get high quality ammo, but as a noob, you are likely to just be pulling the handle & not learning what you are actually doing. Reloading ammo is not baking a cake, there will be consequences for mistakes.
The more complicated the system, the more likely you are to make errors as automated things jamb & you may forget where you are at & what you are doing. So having said that. I recommend a bit more research. The ABCs of Reloading or a minimum of two reloading manuals like the Speer #14 & Lyman #49. Both have good sections on the process of reloading.
The 650 is a great machine, but unless you are loading 1000rds per week, way more machine than you need. With a bullet & case feeder to change over between 9mm & 45acp, you are looking at 20min or so to get things running again. The bullet feeder can be added at anytime, so I would go w/ the 650 & case feeder first. Learn to load on that & if you feel the need to add complication to the process, get the bullet feeder. A 650 will easily load 700rds/hr, add the bullet feeder & if everything goes good, you can exceeed 1000rds/hr. So as you can see, way more press than the avg shooter needs, but nothing wrong w/ that. I load on a 550 & a 650 & still use my single stage press quite a bit. Then I load for 20+ diff calibers.
When I buy once fired brass, I go to one of several on line places. You can find good deals @ gunshows too, but never sure what you are buying. You can scrounge a lot of brass too. I haven't bought a 9mm case in 25yrs, way too much of it at most ranges. Just be careful, some brass, especially 9mm & 40 have been abused by there previous owners & may be a problem if you are going to reload near max.
 

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Ever consider a turret? You don't have to change dies, but you're in complete control of the process. I'm not trying to steer you away from a Dillon, but until you really know what is happening with each stage, what adjustments to make, etc., it may be a little overkill to go with a progressive.

Lyman & Redding make great turret presses. You can buy a different turret head for each caliber, and maintain your die settings.
 

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You can buy a different turret head for each caliber, and maintain your die settings.
That's what I do with my Lee turret. I have a separate turret for each caliber - dies already mounted, adjusted, and locked down. Just twist one out and twist another in, change the shell holder and I'm good to go. I use a single stage with a shortened stroke and universal deprimer to deprime and prime with a Lee hand primer. It's not as slick or fast as a big progressive, but there is less stuff to hang up or go out of adjustment. As I mentioned earlier, it gives me several opportunities to inspect the loads during the process.
 

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Skip the bullet feeder unless you also buy a powder check die.
For me the bullet feeder means no visual quality control and I would not trust the machine vs my own eyes.

The 650 is a great choice. Just load one cartridge at a time the first few hundred rounds till you understand every single stage or process completely.

Get range brass or buy locally from forums.

New brass works too but expensive.
 

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Skip the bullet feeder unless you also buy a powder check die.
For me the bullet feeder means no visual quality control and I would not trust the machine vs my own eyes.

The 650 is a great choice. Just load one cartridge at a time the first few hundred rounds till you understand every single stage or process completely.

Get range brass or buy locally from forums.

New brass works too but expensive.
I just say skip the bullet feeder, there are drawbacks, but it does speed up the round count w/o loss of QC. It takes up another space on the tool head, so unless you want to seat & crimp in one step, there is no room for a COP. Since I like to shoot lead bullets, I find better results seating & crimping in separate steps. The COP is a nice backup safety feature, but like you, I want to see the powder charge, not trust the machine. If you change calibers frequently, add more time to the change w/ a bullet feeder. Oh yeah, the feeder also doesn't play well w/ lead bullets, about all I reload in my handgun stuff.
 
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