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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Picked this up from an estate sale. NIB or damn close to it. Never had a .357 Magnum before, now I do :)



 

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Nice gun; nice review.

Did you notice your flinch @ 2:50 when you dry fired it? cure that, and you'll cure your accuracy problems.

With a DA revolver, I try to "stack" the trigger. It's easy to do with a lot of S&Ws (although they recommend you don't). Basically, in your DA pull, there's one last "click" before the trigger breaks. I always pause there, then give it the last bit. I can't get quite the accuracy that I do from SA, but it's pretty close when you do it that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah I haven't been out in awhile and the flinch is indicative of my need for more practice
 

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I hope you don't mind the unsolicited advice. You probably saw it before I said anything.

Anyway, now you've got the evidence on video so you can view it yourself & make improvements to your technique.


At any rate, you're no idiot if you picked a 66 no dash for your first .357 :)
 

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Just a bit of advice concerning the 357 Magnum in K frame S&W.

Open up the cylinder and look at the underside of the barrel extension inside the frame window. You'll see that it has a flat machined in it to clear the gas ring on the cylinder. You'll also see that the forcing cone of the barrel is thinned quite a bit where that flat is machined. This thin spot is the one weakness in the K frame S&W concerning the 357 Magnum and this weakness didn't become evident until the 70's when light bullet 357 Magnums came on to the market.

So, here is my advice concerning shooting 357 Magnums in your model 66. That is to ONLY use 158 grain lead bullets, personally I would recomend semi wadcutters. It is the predominate ammunition that was in use when the 357 Magnum was first introduced in the K frame. Shoot a modern 125 grain jacketed hollowpoint in 357 Magnum and you may find that you've split the forcing cone with just 50 rounds fired.

BTW, the above ONLY applies to the 357 Magnum, the 38 spl. of 38 +P just doesn't generate enough kinetic energy to split the forcing cone. So, if you want a good defense load just choose one of the modern 125 gn. hollowpoints in either 38 spl. or 38 +P, such as a Speer Gold Dot. I also expect that you'll find the 38's much more comfortable to shoot in volume than 357 Magnums, IMO the K frames are a bit light for comfort with the Magnums.

As for your model 66, it's a Stainless Combat Magnum. Which means that it's one of the finest balanced revolvers ever made and balance does matter in Combat. It's why it was a preferred Police sidearm before the bottom feeders took over.
 

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Just a bit of advice concerning the 357 Magnum in K frame S&W.

Open up the cylinder and look at the underside of the barrel extension inside the frame window. You'll see that it has a flat machined in it to clear the gas ring on the cylinder. You'll also see that the forcing cone of the barrel is thinned quite a bit where that flat is machined. This thin spot is the one weakness in the K frame S&W concerning the 357 Magnum and this weakness didn't become evident until the 70's when light bullet 357 Magnums came on to the market.

So, here is my advice concerning shooting 357 Magnums in your model 66. That is to ONLY use 158 grain lead bullets, personally I would recomend semi wadcutters. It is the predominate ammunition that was in use when the 357 Magnum was first introduced in the K frame. Shoot a modern 125 grain jacketed hollowpoint in 357 Magnum and you may find that you've split the forcing cone with just 50 rounds fired.

BTW, the above ONLY applies to the 357 Magnum, the 38 spl. of 38 +P just doesn't generate enough kinetic energy to split the forcing cone. So, if you want a good defense load just choose one of the modern 125 gn. hollowpoints in either 38 spl. or 38 +P, such as a Speer Gold Dot. I also expect that you'll find the 38's much more comfortable to shoot in volume than 357 Magnums, IMO the K frames are a bit light for comfort with the Magnums.

As for your model 66, it's a Stainless Combat Magnum. Which means that it's one of the finest balanced revolvers ever made and balance does matter in Combat. It's why it was a preferred Police sidearm before the bottom feeders took over.
Thanks for that insight .

I just picked up an as-new 66-4 . I haven't shot it yet , but it has a wonderful feel in hand .

I've read a bit about ammo for it so I knew to use 158g loads but your explanation really explained WHY and what the result of 125g loads CAUSES .

Looking forward to putting some downrange .............
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes I read about using 158gr loadings due to the length of the bullet, compared to the 125grs. Some argued this was only an issue with Model 19s, considering the fact that the model 66 is stainless and supposedly more durable. That being said, I will probably only fire 158gr .357s out of it (I've read to clean before switching between jacketed and lead rounds), or just .38 Specials.
 

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BTW Buffman



I really LOVE the stainless rear sight on the early models , really gives an ultra clean look .

Congrats
 

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Another bit of advice-if you're going to run with magnums, shoot ONLY jacketed or ONLY lead bullets. Lead build up in the forcing cone can cause pressure to spike when firing a jacketed bullet, leading to splits.

If one is going to switch back and forth, investing in a Lewis lead remover would be a wise move.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Cuda.. I'll probably try to only shoot jacketed in it. I have 100 rounds of lead, that maybe I'll shoot up first, then use that tool.
 

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Nice grab. I love my 357.
 

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Very nice. I had the Model 19 back in the 70's.
 

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Sweet!

You'll love it. Very accurate pistols.

I have it's blued cousin, the Model 19 and would NEVER part with it. I also have an early Model 10 38Spl.

Smith & Wesson's K-frame 38s and 357s were very nice pistols and everyone should own one. I have two! LOL

- brickboy240
 
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