Springfield XD Forum banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just ordered a Citadel today and want to go shoot as soon as it comes in. this is my first semi auto, i am used to 6 shooters, i was just wondering if i should just go out and shoot or if i should strip it down and clean it first. i have read on here people that do it both ways.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
772 Posts
It's always a good idea to strip & clean & lube any new firearm before shooting it for the first time. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,543 Posts
congrats, clean and then go shoot!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
127,703 Posts
Disassemble, clean, inspect, shoot. Congratulations!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,287 Posts
Congrats!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,913 Posts
clean, DO NOT USE CLP. pretty much anything else will do, but grease on the rails makes it cycle so much better. if all you have is clp a couple drops of mobil 1 pretty much any weight from your garage will do great. high friction bearing grease if you got that for the rails works great (I use rigs)

next type in todd jarret on google pulls up a short video of him showing you to hold it right, watch it twice.

go shoot

go shoot some more

put an empty piece of brass on the front practice dry firing without knocking it off

go shoot some more.

EDIT: first time you clean it go all the way extractor comes out, trigger comes out, youtube is there if you need help. nothing like cosmoline on the trigger bow to make you think your gun sucks the first time you shoot it to ruin your week..... done that twice actually...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I use WD-40 on all my other guns, dose it work well on 1911s?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
829 Posts
I wouldn't use WD-40. I use that to strip grease and oil off of things. I personally use mobil 1 and it makes all of my pistol very smooth.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29,734 Posts
clean, DO NOT USE CLP. pretty much anything else will do, but grease on the rails makes it cycle so much better. if all you have is clp a couple drops of mobil 1 pretty much any weight from your garage will do great. high friction bearing grease if you got that for the rails works great (I use rigs)

next type in todd jarret on google pulls up a short video of him showing you to hold it right, watch it twice.

go shoot

go shoot some more

put an empty piece of brass on the front practice dry firing without knocking it off

go shoot some more.

EDIT: first time you clean it go all the way extractor comes out, trigger comes out, youtube is there if you need help. nothing like cosmoline on the trigger bow to make you think your gun sucks the first time you shoot it to ruin your week..... done that twice actually...
Sigh.

There is nothing wrong with CLP. There may be better products, but it'll do just fine.

Really--where do you get some of your information?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,731 Posts
Agreed, CLP works just fine. ;)

I used to use Cleanbore 3 in 1, but they don't make it anymore.

Switched to CLP after research and it's just as good.
I think 3 in 1 would last a bit longer, but CLP is just fine.

I've never used grease on any weapon.
That just doesn't seem right to me.

Not saying it's not good, just never done it, never seen anyone do it.
None of our firearms instructors in military or out of it ever recommended it. My Dad and Granddad never used it....
The only place I've ever seen it used is here on forums.

Never been in desert combat, but lots of other places. Usually very wet and no grease.
So I'm still undecided about that kind of advice. :-?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22,575 Posts
I must admit that I am a traitor. I picked up the Citadel 1911 on Thursday at lunch. Gonna cleane it and lube it and probally pop the cherry on Monday. I also got snap caps so I can practice with it and get the feel of it.

Still have both XDMs though.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,913 Posts
I use WD-40 on all my other guns, dose it work well on 1911s?
umm wd40 isn't really a lube/protectant its more in the category of stripper type substance.

Sigh.

There is nothing wrong with CLP. There may be better products, but it'll do just fine.

Really--where do you get some of your information?
the armory, we ran experiments, what else do you have to do with 200 m16a4s. gunzilla and militec both outperformed it by a large margin.

history, you ever read about the m16s in vietnam?

practicality, an m4 with militec and pmags doesn't seem to ever jam. an m4 with clp and pmags jams once in a while. when were shooting 300 rds a person, and there are 600 of us, we can see the results, my whole company purchased militec and handed it out for this deployment. to quote the armorer 'this is all you need"

grease on rails of a 1911 makes a much better gun. mobil 1 works great, militec, slide glide, the wilson combat grease is beyond awesome, personally i like rigs much more affordable, and i use it for a wider variety of things, like bedding rifles so they don't develop rust between the frame and stock, and my grips are bedded with an invisible layer of it as well stopped the ria from rusting the grips. until you try it you really can't knock it.

if your in sub freezing temps and oc I might hesitate, but I IWb carry and in -10 haven't had any issues going to outdoor ranges.

Oh yeah the big argument for gunzilla, "the clp that works' is that its 100% natural and is healthy to drink, literally. now clp is a whole other story. http://informahealthcare.com/doi/abs/10.1080/15569520600860306

weve run 240s side by side after cleaning them with either gunzilla or CLP. gunzilla beat out cLP by a huge margin, both in number of malfunctions, and in hours it took to clean it, cut cleaning time by roughly (very unscientific here) 60% we did find pre spraying with gunzilla cut scraping time dramitically CLP had no effect really.

If you read any military manuel it takes 3 days to clean a firearm, because Clp causes the carbon to continue to be pulled out of the metal. Is that a good thing? I can't see how, I think thats an issue of overcleaning. but most other chemicals do not do this at least not to the same extent. Considering most people don't take 3 days to clean their weapons..... to some extent their weapons will be gunked up before the next use, blatantly unnacceptable to me.

Oh one other anecdote sigs are notorious for liking to run wet. well I had CLP on my P6 on a day I shot 200 rds got to about 110 and it jammed. poured clp on it, took it apart soaked it, continued to jam. I put rigs grease on it another time and fired over 300 rds without even noticing the slide slowing down. Grease is blatantly recommended by lots of people for the new nitron slides, you know, the ones that are so hard if they get past their own finish they will gouge the frame.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,913 Posts
I've never used grease on any weapon.
That just doesn't seem right to me.

Not saying it's not good, just never done it, never seen anyone do it.
None of our firearms instructors in military or out of it ever recommended it. My Dad and Granddad never used it....
The only place I've ever seen it used is here on forums.

Never been in desert combat, but lots of other places. Usually very wet and no grease.
So I'm still undecided about that kind of advice. :-?
in the desert we go for dry lubes, militec is king here. I wouldn't want to use grease in a talcum powder environment, seems like a bad idea. odd thought, I clean my rifle religiously but don't always add lube, there was a point where for a month if I loaded a gun i took a shotgun, so I didn't relube my rifle just cleaned it... it stayed moist so not sure why we consider it a dry lube.

No one in my family but myself uses a 1911 either, but that didn't stop me. No one in my family wears ear pro but me either... I think they are old timers that don't know any better. My whole family shoots (and they are all lawyers) not one owns a 1911 that I know of. Personally i don't foresee myself buying any pistols that aren't 1911s in the near future. if I want a bigger handgun the coonan .357 is on my mind.

i know people in michigan that their family has been using rigs grease for 40+ years and they buy it by the tub.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,401 Posts
It might be better for the gun to be cleaned first but I have always fired mine right off the bat and never have had issues down the line.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22,575 Posts
I cleaned my Citadel finally, wasn't too bad out of the box on the outside. I broke it down and it looked like it was dunked in used motor oil. All better now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29,734 Posts
umm wd40 isn't really a lube/protectant its more in the category of stripper type substance.

the armory, we ran experiments, what else do you have to do with 200 m16a4s. gunzilla and militec both outperformed it by a large margin.

history, you ever read about the m16s in vietnam?

Yes--And you trying to link them to using CLP on a 1911 causes me to have doubts that you have. M16's failed because of two reasons--first, the rounds were not loaded with the clean burning powder they were designed for, but a cheaper, dirtier powder. And second, because troops were told that they didn't need to clean the "Gee, Swell, It's by Mattel" rifle. When an agressive training program informing troops that their weapons needed to be kept clean (the source of those classic comics), the problems were alleviated.

In short, the two things are not related.

practicality, an m4 with militec and pmags doesn't seem to ever jam. an m4 with clp and pmags jams once in a while. when were shooting 300 rds a person, and there are 600 of us, we can see the results, my whole company purchased militec and handed it out for this deployment. to quote the armorer 'this is all you need"

An m4 is a different beast than a 1911. Perhaps you are unaware of this.

grease on rails of a 1911 makes a much better gun. mobil 1 works great, militec, slide glide, the wilson combat grease is beyond awesome, personally i like rigs much more affordable, and i use it for a wider variety of things, like bedding rifles so they don't develop rust between the frame and stock, and my grips are bedded with an invisible layer of it as well stopped the ria from rusting the grips. until you try it you really can't knock it.

Again, I didn't say there weren't better things, but your statement of "never use CLP" is erroneous at best. It'll do just fine.

if your in sub freezing temps and oc I might hesitate, but I IWb carry and in -10 haven't had any issues going to outdoor ranges.

Oh yeah the big argument for gunzilla, "the clp that works' is that its 100% natural and is healthy to drink, literally. now clp is a whole other story. Informa Healthcare - Cutaneous and Ocular Toxicology - 25(3):185 - Summary

weve run 240s side by side after cleaning them with either gunzilla or CLP. gunzilla beat out cLP by a huge margin, both in number of malfunctions, and in hours it took to clean it, cut cleaning time by roughly (very unscientific here) 60% we did find pre spraying with gunzilla cut scraping time dramitically CLP had no effect really.

If you read any military manuel it takes 3 days to clean a firearm, because Clp causes the carbon to continue to be pulled out of the metal. Is that a good thing? I can't see how, I think thats an issue of overcleaning. but most other chemicals do not do this at least not to the same extent. Considering most people don't take 3 days to clean their weapons..... to some extent their weapons will be gunked up before the next use, blatantly unnacceptable to me.

Oh one other anecdote sigs are notorious for liking to run wet. well I had CLP on my P6 on a day I shot 200 rds got to about 110 and it jammed. poured clp on it, took it apart soaked it, continued to jam. I put rigs grease on it another time and fired over 300 rds without even noticing the slide slowing down. Grease is blatantly recommended by lots of people for the new nitron slides, you know, the ones that are so hard if they get past their own finish they will gouge the frame.
See comments in red.

In short there is nothing wrong with using CLP on a 1911, as it is not a machine gun or a Sig with an uberhard slide.:rolleyes:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,913 Posts
See comments in red.

In short there is nothing wrong with using CLP on a 1911, as it is not a machine gun or a Sig with an uberhard slide.:rolleyes:
of all the things on a stores shelf its almost if not actually the least effective. granted it works if used right.

its one of the most unhealthy if not the most dangerous (You are supposed to wear protective equipment when handling it)

its not the cheapest.

there are cheaper things that work better, are more readily available and are healthier for you. aside from 'so and so" used it there are NO reasons to use clp.

can you get the job done with it? if the job is easy enough yeah but why would you bother. mobil 1 hands down smokes it, and you buy that by the quart for less than a small bottle.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top