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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey folks! OK, now that I've had a little time to myself, I've taken some pics of my newest acquisition: An IMI (Israel Military Industries) Jericho 941!





BACKGROUND:
I've been on the hunt for one of these in decent enough condition at a price I could afford for quite a long time. I wasn't really in the market for another pistol, but since I've been looking for one of these bad boys for so long, I felt I couldn't pass up the opportunity. So on Wednesday I met up with a local seller who was asking $375 for this pistol and one magazine, no case, papers or etc. This is the fill-size model with a steel frame and slide mounted decocker/safety.

So, a little background on these pistols. They are clones of the CZ75 platform, and share many parts with the small-frame (old) EAA Witness pistols. These were imported by KBI, Inc./Charles Daly under different brands and names from about 1990 until Charles Daly closed shop in early 2010. New variants of the design are being imported by Magnum Research.

Being the stubborn jerk I am, I wanted nothing less than an IMI (not IWI) version of the Jericho 941, though I had no interest in the 40A.E. barrel. So, this pistol works great. Wish there weren't so many importation marks, though. I'll have to see if I can (legally) do anything about the Century Arms name/address (not serial) marking on the slide.


FINISH:
The design of the pistol is what drew me to it, but you definitely get the impression that this Jericho was put together in a hurry. Needs a bit of love. I was surprised at how rough the pistol's finish is, especially when taking a good, hard look at the casting, machine and sanding marks. I'm going to work it over a bit like I do with 1911's, and see if I can't turn this diamond in the rough into something a bit more... eye pleasing.

This pistol is showing it's age. There's some relatively minor pitting in the finish, and I've already started the process of removing what I can with some Hoppes No.9 and some 0000 steel wool. The results are promising; the worst bit of rust was on the righthand side of the slide, near the muzzle:



And after the steel wool/Hoppes treatment:



The minor stuff along the slide and frame has been coming off pretty easily as well. Once I've got the mechanical bits of this pistol sorted out, I'll move forward with the rest of the refinishing. I'm planning on stripping the current finish and bead blasting the slide/frame, and doing an assessment on the metal's true condition. Based on what I find and whether the minor pitting can be completely erased, I'll figure out what kind of finish I'll put back on. Leaning towards parkerizing it after working out all the sanding/machine marks, and if it needs a little something more to hide some of the "ugly" I'll likely cerakote it, too. Will be keeping the pistol black, though. No funky two-tones or colors.

TRIGGER:
The trigger has been messed with, so it's lighter than stock. It's a hackjob, however, so I'll be sorting it out sometime in the near future. As it sits, the DA measured out to a hitchy, un-smooth 10lbs (on the nose), and the single action is a creepy 4lbs, 6.8oz.

The reach to the trigger is long, so those of you with short little sausage fingers need not apply. The DA pull starts off with a heavy, sight picture-destroying glitch and through the rest of the pull is interrupted by roughness, and a big hitch where the hammer trips the half-cock notch. Single action is a rolling break with a bit of creep and minimal overtravel.

Trigger reset is decent, but nothing to write home about. Standard stuff here, folks. If you've been spoiled by the Sig SRT trigger, as I recently have been, you're going to turn your nose up at this.

MECHANICAL:
Initial function checks show the mainspring has been replaced with a lighter unit, and in a bubba-'smithing attempt, the firing pin spring has been cut in an attempt to restore the pistol's ability to ignite harder primers. My plan is to replace the mainspring, firing pin and recoil springs with stock weight units, and the extractor spring will be replaced with a heavy duty Wolff unit. If I want a better trigger with those installed, I will do some fluff and buff.

The Jericho breaks field strips like other CZ's and clones. After checking to ensure the pistol is cleared, you align two marks located near the hammer pin on the left side of the frame and slide, then push the slide stop from the right side of the frame. This slide stop can be tight, so using a hard surface such as your magazine baseplate may come in handy. Once pulled out, the slide assembly can be removed by sliding it forward until it clears the frame rails.







I'm also going to replace the grips with some new factory units I've found on the Numrich gun parts website. I think just getting the finish oxidation under control and replacing those grips will do a lot to make the pistol look pretty decent until I can get around to working on the project.

Here's a few more pics of my work in progress - some have pitting evident while others are after the first round of rust removal:









 

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I think you could probably take a black marker or a fine tip of black paint on the import marks and go over them.

You can't make them unreadable but I don't think there's any rule against coloring them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I think you could probably take a black marker or a fine tip of black paint on the import marks and go over them.

You can't make them unreadable but I don't think there's any rule against coloring them.
Seems to be plenty of ATF rulings saying that the importer name/location marks are fair game, and that most of the confusion is over the serial numbers that may be used by importers for tracking.

Federal law prohibits removal of SN, state law MAY prohibit removing importer's marks (serial number marks by the importer should NOT be screwed with, especially on Russian guns with cyrillic SN's)
I think it needs some hard chrome.
F*ck no!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If I wanted it to look like one of those, I'd do it in Gold and get some matching false teeth! :lol:
 

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If I wanted it to look like one of those, I'd do it in Gold and get some matching false teeth! :lol:
And mother of pearl grips. I like where this is going.

That gun looks rough with the tooling marks though.

I think you need to get a witness as well. Last I remember of them they're pretty damn nice in that regard.
 

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Looks like a fun project, I need a project gun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
And mother of pearl grips. I like where this is going.

That gun looks rough with the tooling marks though.

I think you need to get a witness as well. Last I remember of them they're pretty damn nice in that regard.
Yeah, the chatter marks on the rails are pretty obvious, too. I'll spend all my effort on the bits that can be seen or those that affect function. It racks smooth enough that I don't have to worry about the rails right now.

Looks like a fun project, I need a project gun.
Life isn't worth living without at least 2-3 projects on hold... :D
 

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Life isn't worth living without at least 2-3 projects on hold... :D
I agree, my projects just aren't firearms at the moment.
 

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That's a wicked difficult finish.

Dunno how durable it'd be either.

A polished blue would be sweet with some checkered wood grips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm honestly keeping it pretty stock, to include the grips (they will be replaced with *new* stock grips, though). Not real sure what I'm doing for a finish, though.

I'm pretty sure it's a blue finish, but I want to be sure. Anyone know how to test a pistol to be positive it's a blued finish?
 

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I've thought about black chrome on my DE, but have been told by many it's no where near as tough as standard hard chrome..
 
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