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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. I've acquired quite a few mosin parts for peanuts lately and I figured its time I start piecing them together into real rifles.

I've been on the prowl for a 91/30 barrel. I have everything else as far as the barreled action goes, I just need to the barrel itself. Where is a good place online that sells nice mosin barrels for cheap?

Also I am looking for a M38 or M44 stock but have been having trouble getting any results. Where can one go to find a mosin carbine stock online? Thanks.
 

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One place to try is:

https://www.buymilsurp.com/mosin-nagant-parts-accessories-c-2.html

But the barrel alone will cost you about half what an entire M91/30 can be had for... IDK. Also, you will need to check head space after the barrel swap... hope you got the gages for that. BuyMilSurp also carries a variety of stocks for the Mosin-Nagants... just search around the M-N accessories & parts.
 

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m-38 is hard to find and the m-44 id bet is harder.. I think the m-44 was the Finnish version and is quite rare to see any parts available.
 

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Question:How does one remove a Mosin barrel anyway...is is screwed into the receiver like on an Enfield or pressed in?
 

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Question:How does one remove a Mosin barrel anyway...is is screwed into the receiver like on an Enfield or pressed in?
Screwed in. Very tight but do-able with a barrel vise. Sometimes.


ETA: also depends on how badly rusted together... ;)
 

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Question:How does one remove a Mosin barrel anyway...is is screwed into the receiver like on an Enfield or pressed in?
Thats a damned good question! Alas I dont think im gonna start tugging twisting or prying on any of my nagants to find that answer.
 

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m-38 is hard to find and the m-44 id bet is harder.. I think the m-44 was the Finnish version and is quite rare to see any parts available.
Naw... the M-44 is just a later WWII carbine version, similar to the M-38 except with a permanently attached folded bayonet. M-44s are easier to find today than M-38s.
 

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Thats a damned good question! Alas I dont think im gonna start tugging twisting or prying on any of my nagants to find that answer.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/gunsmithing/mosin-nagant-barrel-removal-208191/
Googlin' found this
Depending on type and date of manufacture, Mosin barrels can be hard or ***^&*! un-movable.

First thing is to strip as much off the barrelled receiver (including sight parts.
Then get or make a proper barrel vice and a proper receiver wrench.

Barrel vice is usually two half bushes of brass or aluminium, fitting in-side a clamp ( 1x1 bars) which is bolted on both sides ( 5/8" bolts minimum) and the lot welded to some heavy angle and locked into a heavy bench vice ( mine is a 8 inch Record, cast steel). The Barrel vice is located as close as possible to the Barrel shank ( on a parallel section of barell ( there is a slight taper, which can be "scraped in" to the brass blocks).

Then take the receiver wrench (NOT a toothed Pipe wrench or similar "Bubba tool") which has been fitted to the profile of the receiver...I have a cut from solid wrench for "Hex" (Old Mosin) receivers, the inner surface lined with copper sheet), and a "Vee Block" clamp -on one to use with Round receivers ( M91/30 type). Both these Rec. wrenches have a 1 inch handle, solidly welded onto the main frame, over which I slip a HD Black steel Pipe ( 1 inch Nom. Bore., and about 5-foot long ( 1,5 metres).

Every thing is oriented so that the "Cheat bar" is horizontal, and then I can do one of two methods....I whack the end of the bar with a 14 pound Sledge to "Crack" the joint between barrel shoulders and Receiver shoulders; some times, I try to swing on the bar with my own weight, first ( 220 Pounds) to see if it will "crack.".

IN any case, prepping. the joint by an overnight soak with a penetrating oil is useful.
Sometimes a five minute heat with a Bernz-o-matic hand held torch will help "loosen" the Joint.

It is essential both Vices (Barrel and Receiver) are tighened to max without shearing the bolts. Powdered Rosin may be needed to prevent the Bushes from slipping on the Barrel ( Older Mosins are very smooth (well machined) WW II Mosins are pretty rought surfaced, so will grip better.)

If the first try doesn't work, try the Torch method, and then cool the barrel with some cold water compresses. Leave the receiver hot ( "holes expand when heated") and try the Cheat bar again.

Eventually you will get the barrel out... if NOT,as a last resort, if the Barrel is a Klunker ( or Sewer Pipe) one can simply cut off the barrel just in front of the receiver, bore out the stub to just Thread depth, and then pick out the remaining Barrel threads from the Receiver Threaded hole.

Good barrels which are well seated can be "relieved" by cutting a fine slot just in front of the receiver ring, all the way around, to relieve the compression of the metals...Barrels were regularly "Machine Torqued" when assembled. A simple Hacksaw can do this slot. Depth to Thread core diameter.


Now that you have the barrel out, what are you going to do...put a replacement (Good) Mosin barrel back in, or put in a NEW Barrel, maybe in another calibre???

If putting in another barrel, threads will have to be cut. I forget how many TPI and diameter the Mosin barrel is ( De Haas has the details, as does the NRA Book on Gunsmithing) but REMEMBER: The Mosin Threads are all British Whitworth Form ( 55 degrees) NOT US type ( 60 degrees).

Best regards, Doc AV
AV Ballistics Film Ordnance Services

Brisbane Australia
and somma dis!

Might be a good idea to heat the reciever with a b-bottle and try to break it loose...do you see how long that daggum cheater bar was! I bet he could have torqued down bigrig lug nuts with that thing!!!!!
 

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yeah the above post looks way to labor intensive for me to even attempt to de barrel my nagants.. not that id ever need to :S and my luck id hear a distinct "snap" and that ed be the end of the nagant! and yes he could torque big rig lug nuts he said 540ft lbs at our shop there torqued to 450ft lbs
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Mosin barrel removal is tricky business. Those things have been connected for 60+ years and will not want to budge. What makes matters worse for me is that the barrel on my action was removed all the way down to about at half inch up from the serial numbers on the reciever.

For as cheap of a rifle as the Mosin Nagant is, it is definitely prudent to buy one completely assembled because parting together one will run you at least twice the cost of the gun itself.
 

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Mosin barrel removal is tricky business. Those things have been connected for 60+ years and will not want to budge. What makes matters worse for me is that the barrel on my action was removed all the way down to about at half inch up from the serial numbers on the reciever.

For as cheap of a rifle as the Mosin Nagant is, it is definitely prudent to buy one completely assembled because parting together one will run you at least twice the cost of the gun itself.
Yeah I picked mine up for 85 bucks er so with all the goodies!
 
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