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Well guys for about the last month I have been using Mobil 1 for my gun oil. The only reason being I am the assistan manager at a Lube Center, and I can get it for free. So far it has exceeded my expectations, its some great stuff. I figure if you can use it 15,000 mile in you motor why not my gun. My question to yall is what do you think about me using motor oil, I am positive that Im not the first to do so. So anyones thoughts are apreciated.
 

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I've never used Mobil 1 but, I know some people who do use it. From what I've read and been told it's a good choice for gun lube. I wouldn't use regular petroleum based motor oil though, unless there was nothing else available.
 

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It is probally printed on the Mobil 1 container: Warning! Avoid prolonged contact with skin............

Use Break Free CLP instead. It is safe to eyes and skin, conforms to Mil. spec (Mil-L-63460) and contains Teflon.
 

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Mobil 1 is one of the best kept secrets in the gun cleaning world. I use a thicker oil from JP Enterprises (www.jprifles.com) during the summer, and switch to Mobil 1 when the temp drops to around 40 then use it all winter. When it gets down to around zero any thing thicker will slow your slide down to the point that the slide will not cycle any more.
Another plus is that with the detergent in the oil it keeps the slide rails cleanand you don't get a gummy buildup on the slide and rails.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey WARHEADZ I know the warning on the back Ive been in the oil business for 3 years I come in contact with it all day everyday.
 

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When I was an avid paintballer a few years back, I used motor oil to lub my marker all the time. Haven't thought of using it on my pistol yet, but I see no reason it wouldn't hold up.
 

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I know several people who use Mobil 1 on their pistols. These guns are worth $2000 to $7000 Australian and they have never encountered a problem. If it good enough for those pistols it good enough for me!
mulder
 

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since yur in the oil biz , what makes Mobil 1 different then other oil? the synthetic stuff i have always wondered how it works, in everything ?
 

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shaner said:
since yur in the oil biz , what makes Mobil 1 different then other oil? the synthetic stuff i have always wondered how it works, in everything ?
Synthetic oil contains esters which allows it to cling to metal surfaces. Dead dinosaur juice doesn't. When you start up a motor with conventional oil, the non oiled metal surfaces are rubbing against one another until the oil starts flowing. This causes wear. Synthetic oil will cling to metal parts even if the engine is shut off for a long period of time. When you start the engine up with synthetic motor oil there is a thin film of oil on the moving parts in the motor, thus reducing metal to metal contact or wear. Synthetics also last longer than conventional motor oil before it breaks down.

Because of these esters, we know that the oil will stay put on our guns. That is why synthetic oil one of the best gun lubes. I've taken guns out of my safe after years and the actions were as smooth as the day I put them in.
 

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This one might be worth a look. As soon as old school gets his blue wonder kit back in stock (*GLARE*) I want to try that stuff on my new XD40 and see how well it works compared to my current CLP, et al.

May pick up a bottle of synthetic and see how it compares as well.
 

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wfrazee said:
This one might be worth a look. As soon as old school gets his blue wonder kit back in stock (*GLARE*) I want to try that stuff on my new XD40 and see how well it works compared to my current CLP, et al.
I have some in stock. :)
 

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It seems like it works and I've thought of trying it. But since I only use a few drops of gun lube oil per week, there isn't that much incentive to switch. Especially since I like to use CLP to clean with.
 

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I found this the other day on the pretty much dead FP-10 Forum. Its from the Prez. of FP-10, so take it for what its worth:

Quote:
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Ok...lets look at the "requirements and needs" picture and ask the question, "Does your gun need the following additives and/or characteristics found in a motor oil"?

Does it need dispersants to keep insoluble materials suspended? - No

Does it need Pour Point Depressants to prevent or inhibit growth of wax crystals at reduced temperatures? - No

Does it need Detergents to suspend or deter deposit formation? - No

Does it need Oxidation Inhibitors to decompose peroxides, inhibit free radical formation and passivate exposed metals? - No. There are different agents at work here than Peroxides and the like so we need different chemistries.

Does it need Corrosion Inhibitors to neutralize acid materials and form protective films on metal surfaces? - Yes

Does it need Rust Inhibitors to provide protective, water-repellent films? - Yes, but based on the chemistry of the need, once again.

Does it need Foam Inhibitors to reduce surface tension and allow air bubbles to separate more readily? - No

Does it need Metal Deactivators to form inactive protective films? - Yes, but once again, the need is dictated by the environmental conditions.

Does it need Antiwear, Extreme-Pressure, Oiliness and Film-Strength Agents to form a shear strength that protects the base metals, to reduce friction and prevent welding and seizure if and when the oil film is ruptured? - Yes, indeed...but I can guarantee you, as a long time member of SAE, that these are never enough and designed to meet the "minimum" requirements.


Redline has been carefully engineered for your car. Do they defend your "Right to Keep and Bear Arms"? MPC does!!!

Firepower FP-10 CLP has been meticulously engineered for your guns (polymers, metals, and woods included).
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
George C. Fennell, L.E.
112 Fennell Drive
Butler, PA 16002

I'm not selling the stuff or have any affiliation with the company other than I use their product.
 

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i cried when i found out mobil1 was getting rid of their red cap (15w50). it was primo in my motorcycle...

dean
cincinnati
xd40service
xd9sc
 

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Old School said:
wfrazee said:
As soon as old school gets his blue wonder kit back in stock (*GLARE*) I want to try that stuff on my new XD40 and see how well it works compared to my current CLP, et al.
I have some in stock.
Stock minus 1 :)
 

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Maybe I am wrong, (probally not) but long term contact with motor oils can cause skin damage. I have seen the hands of long time mechanics which can carry some weight to this conclusion. Shooting with gloves offer protection from the oil but as I mentioned earlier, CLP is safe on skin and it contains all of the desirable ingredients that synthetic motor oils do.
 

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I normally wipe off all surfaces w/ Breakfree and wait 30 minutes or so. Next , I lightly wipe off the Breakfree and apply(sparingly) 15-50w Mobil one to the specified lube points. Nothing works better! This stuff doesn't "cook off" or gum up regardless of the heat. You will also notice that the slide, etc. functions much smoother. :wink:
 
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