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38,922 Posts
Discussion Starter #62
Great thread, thanks for taking the time with such abundance of info and experience.
Thanks for the positive comment !!!

Darn near all of it is just locating, and consolidating stuff that I find value in.

And I was just reading an article in Traditional Bowhunter about the wooden arrow, and the author made a good point ... "There's almost no end to where you can go today with the "this is better" discussion. There's always something better". I guess it depends on what one is looking for"

It makes sense, and IMO knowledge is power ... That's what I'm looking for.

Is there anything in particular you'd like me to try to find/add to this thread ?

I'm willing to learn something new, and quite frankly, I could use some investigative inspiration.

Premium Member
353 Posts
Awesome thread. Gonna take me forever to go through all this info.

Has anyone tried printing off all the info from the links? If so, how much paper & ink cartridges did you end up using? I'd like to print all this out and put it in a huge binder to go in a long term survival kit.

38,922 Posts
Discussion Starter #64
12-Gauge Booby Trap Alarm
Mar 20, 2011

This perimeter security device can be attached anywhere with only 2 screws. When activated by a trip wire the firing pin is released, firing a 12 gauge blank cartridge. This is designed to scare away unwanted visitors or trespassers; however the cartridge can easily be replaced with a real 12-gauge round and would become deadly to anyone tripping the guide wire. This unit is made of steel and is reusable. It is available at Espionage Unlimited Spy Shop & Spy Store Fake ID for $59.99

12-Gauge Booby Trap Alarm​

From the same website that the above can be purchased at:
In the event of a break-in, you need more then just a loud noise. This unit will stop the intruder quickly with PEPPER GAS. All you need do, is to simply string a trip wire (at any height you wish - to avoid pets, etc.) across any area that you want protected. Can easily be used on doors, windows, hallways, etc. When the trip is triggered, the device discharges 4 oz.s of pepper gas in a matter of seconds! One whiff, any your intruder will be on his way, providing he is even able to do so! Also, this unit WILL NOT DAMAGE INTERIOR FURNISHING. This unit is also REUSABLE, as well as quickly and easily installed!
It would seem that the Pepper Gas idea could be implemented as a front door deterrent, and wouldn't take a lot of fabrication ... Although I think the best method of deployment, would be a solenoid activation system, that is tied into an alarm system.

That way it could be left in place, permanently.

Premium Member
14,544 Posts
They had a similar setup on Hawaii 5-0 last night.

There's a lot of useful stuff here. Thanks.

1,701 Posts
Back to top. Been languishing long enough. :)

38,922 Posts
Discussion Starter #69
Field Manuals & Military Handbooks (.pdf Format)

Psychological Operations (PsyOps) AFDD 2-5-3
CBR Shelters ETL 1110-3-498
Map Reading & Navigation FM 3-25-26
Terrain, Maps, and Direction
Nuclear, Biological & Chemical (NBC) Field Handbook FM 3-7
Nuclear, Biological & Chemical (NBC) Protection FM 34
Military Chemical & Biological Agents and Compounds FM 3-9
Counterinsurgency Operations FMI 3-07.22
Survival, Evasion, Resistance & Escape (SERE) AR350-30
US Army Ranger Handbook
Combined Arms Operations in Urban Terrains (Urban Combat) FM3-06
Expeditionary Maneuver Warware

Medical and First-Aid

Where There is No Doctor
Where There is No Dentist - Excellent, must-read!
Combat Lifesaver Course – Student Self-Study IS0871

Technology, Electronics, and Engineering

Scout Engineering
Pedal Power

Convert Gasoline Engines to Run on Alcohol, 2008
Complete Manual of Pirate Radio
Antennas for Receiving and Transmitting, 2004

Emergency Preparedness, Collapse, Survival, & Post-SHTF

Preparedness Capability Checklist – Minimum and Extended Levels
Long Term Survival Guide: Improvised Towers
Long Term Survival Guide: Scrounging Metal and Survival Blacksmithing
US Army Field Manual – Management of Dead Bodies

Urban Gardening, Farming, Homesteading, Pioneering, & Bushcraft

The Construction of Secret Hiding Places
Raised Bed Garden Book.pdf
Guide to Canning.pdf
Pioneering, 1962
Poisonous Snakes and Lizards
Poisonous Plants
Dangerous Insects and Arachnids
Solar Distillation – Meeting Small Scale Water Demands, 1970
Simple Methods for the Treatment of Drinking Water
Fishing Knots
Ten Best Traps
Ultimate Guide to Wilderness Living

38,922 Posts
Discussion Starter #70

Beer Making

The most important skill anyone should have is the production of BEER! It is simple, enjoyable, and the worst part is knowing your beer is going to be yummy and having to wait a few weeks before you can enjoy it.

There are two methods if you will, for brewing beer. The first is using extracts, which come in liquid and powder form, and the second is the all-grain method. Both will produce great tasting beer. Using extracts is easier and faster while all-grain gives you complete control over your beer's characteristics.

Not to mention the beer you will make tasting better, it will also save you money. An ingredient kit costs on average 40 bucks, and will yield roughly 50 beers as most kits will make 5 gallons of brew and you will get roughly 10 bottles per gallon (1 gallon is 128 oz, and bottles are roughly 12.8 oz. It depends on how much you put in each bottle.) You can alternatively keg your brew. This is roughly two cases of beer, which could cost anywhere from 50$ to 140$ depending on what and where you buy it.

There are kits you can buy that come with everything you need to brew your own beer and they only cost around 100$. This is a kit made by Coopers that comes with everything you need to brew and bottle: http://www.makebeer.net/item.asp?idP...dSubCategory=0 There are many others like it.

I'll cover the extract kit method.

All you really need is a stainless steel pot of 3 gallons or more,

a container to ferment in, with carboys being the most popular,

a bung for the carboy

an airlock

bottles and bottle caps

if using press fit caps (which I recommend) then a capper

and a method of getting beer out of the fermenting container and into your bottles. Some containers have spigots in the bottom, otherwise an autosiphon will be of great use

some hose

and a bottling stem

and a way to rapidly cool your wort (the water mixed with the extracts). You can either use a sink filled with ice and water, or a wort chiller. There are three types of chillers: immersion which goes into the wort

Continued next post

38,922 Posts
Discussion Starter #71
a counter-flow chiller, which has a tube within a tube. The hot wort flows down inside the inner tube while the cold water flows up the outer tube. These work FANTASTIC and it is what I personally use.

and then there is the plate chiller

Those were listed in order of effectiveness, cost, and complexity of setup: sink, immersion, counter-flow, and plate. The immersion and counter-flow chillers are easily made on your own.

You will also want a hydrometer

This is used to measure specific gravity of water. You take a reading before you pitch your yeast and after fermenting is done. Subtract the final gravity from original gravity and multiply by 131.25 and this gives you your alcohol by volume percentage. Not a necessary tool, but you should get it anyways.

And then you need a sanitizer. there are many but I personally use starsan

Everything that comes into contact with the wort after it has been boiled needs to be sanitized in some way.

A thermometer is also needed.

In addition, you will need a heat source, a stirring tool, and a cool, dark place to set your fermentor while the yeast does its thing. A basement is perfect. It is important that once yeast is added that any and all light is kept off the brew as much as possible.

All of this will be available at a home brewing supply store. Outside of the pot and carboy, you are looking at about 50-100 dollars, depending on where you get it from. The chiller is the big variable. I suggest making one, it is easy and will save you a lot of money. Most people already have the pot and the carboys can be gotten anywhere, or you can also make your own. It just needs to be a glass, food-grade plastic, or stainless steel container with an opening on top you can close up and fit an airlock into.

Now, onto the steps of brewing your beer!

Step 1: Purchase your beer ingredient kit! There are many of these and they are of varying cost. They will come with all of your ingredients including malt extracts, dry and liquid, grains if the recipe calls for them, a steeping bag, hops, yeast, priming sugar, yeast, bottles caps, and most importantly INSTRUCTIONS! You could follow those from here on, but that would make this kind of boring post. Pick whatever you like, I started with an American wheat ale.

Step 2: Gather your brewing gear to your brewing location and clean up your brew kettle (the stainless steel pot). Put in 2.5 gallons of water and start to heat. While it is getting warm, gather your ingredients. If your kit has grains, put them into the steeping bag now. Clean up the rest of your gear.

Step 3: If your kit comes with grains to steep, bring it to temp, usually 150-165 degrees and put your steep bag filled with grains in. It is important that you don't pack the grains in and they are loose in the bag. You want the water to be able to get to all the grains and extract everything. At this stage it is drastically important that you don't go over 165 degrees. Over this temperature you will begin to extract tannins which will make your beer so bitter it will pucker your face. Usually this will last 20 minutes, refer to your instructions for the specifics.

Step 4: Remove your grain bag after the required time has elapse and let it drip in. Don't squeeze or you could get tannins. You could sparge (rinse) the bag with 165 degree water to extract more bits from the grains, but with kits it isn't necessary. Now begin to bring your wort to boil.

Step 5: Add the extracts. These will either be liquids or powders or both. If you have liquids I HIGHLY suggest putting them in another pot of hot water. These things are THICK. The first time I did this,the stream was bending in the air from me stirring. It is important that as you add LME (liquid malt extract) that you stir the wort so the LME doesn't settle on the bottom and burn.

Step 6: Once the water is boiling, add your bittering hops and set a timer. You will need to refer to your instructions, but typically you will boil for 60mins total, but at 55minutes into the boil you will add another round of hops, the aroma hops.

Step 7: Once the required boil time is achieved, cool the water as fast as possible! It is also very important that at this point anything that comes into contact with the wort is clean and sanitized. You want to cool the wort as fast as possible because the heat is causing your wort to create sulphur compounds which were previously being boiled out. Your wort isn't boiling anymore so they are sticking around. If you are too slow, they will begin to impart the taste of raw eggs. There is also something called chill haze, but as far as I know, this is just cosmetic. Cooling to 70-80 degrees in 20mins is fast enough from what I read, with my setup I'm able to do it in 3-5.

Step 8: Put your wort into your fermentor. I do this at the same time as chilling. The tube goes from the kettle, through the chiller, and flows into the fermentor. Again, it is super important that you've sanitized your fermentor, airlock, and everything coming into contact with your wort now. If you used an immersion chiller, grab a funnel and pour it in. This will aerate which people say needs to be done, but I disagree. Fermentation is an anaerobic activity, which means in the absence of oxygen. Aeration adds oxygen. But, either way it will work.

Step 9: Fill your fermentor up while taking an occasional hydrometer reading. The instructions will have the original gravity (OG) reading that is required for your particular brew. Once you get to it, stop filling.

Step 10: Add (pitch) the yeast. The yeast will need to be activated which requires a 15min soak in warm (NOT HOT) water. Once the yeast is pitched, put your airlock and bung on then set your fermentor in your designated fermenting spot.

Step 11: WAIT. The sad part. Primary fermentation usually takes 7-10 days. Go down and check your airlock. It will have bubbles forming and pushing through. When these get really sporadic, like a minute or so, it is done. You can also take hydrometer readings and look for the final gravity the instructions say.

Step 12a: You have two choices now, either bottle or put it into a secondary fermentor. Secondary fermenting helps clarity and is when you would add flavor things like cherries or wood chips or cinammon or whatever. It typically lasts like 2 weeks. Either way, take a hydrometer reading and calculate your alcohol content.

Step 12b; Bottle your beer! Make sure you've washed your bottles and sanitized them AND your caps. Get your priming sugar dissolved in some water and add it into your freshly brewed beer. Mix it in. Remember that everything must be clean and sterile. Get connect your bottling stem to your hose and your hose to your autosiphon and get the siphon started. Everything has valves so it won't leak out. Get a bottle, stick the stem in and push it to the bottom of the bottle. Once the beer reaches the top of the bottle pull the stem out. Put a cap on top of the bottle, get your capper and press it on. This is best done with two people and is enjoyable I think. One person bottles, the other caps.

The reason for the priming sugar is this will allow more fermentation which produces CO2. Since your bottles are now sealed, the CO2 will carbonate your beer! It is important that you don't use more sugar than they give you or you will make too much CO2 and when you go to open your bottle to drink, you will get a mess instead of yum beer.

Step 13: Set your bottles in your designated fermenting area. These will be ready to go in a week or two. This is the really crappy part. If you're like me, you've already had a bottle to sample, which despite being pretty flat and warm tastes awesome. And after experiencing beer nirvana, you have to wait a week or two more before you can enjoy something you know is going to be even better!

Step 14: DRINK THE FRUITS OF YOUR LABOR! Save the bottles for reuse! The caps can't be reused.

And that's how you make beer at home!

I've got 5 gallons of American wheat ale bottled and conditioning as well as 5 gallons of an Irish stout and 5 gallons of a red ale fermenting currently.

38,922 Posts
Discussion Starter #73
Survival sticky ?

2,242 Posts
Nice info!

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