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^^^ It's been hiding in plain sight.

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Yes, back to the top

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Discussion Starter #47
The Survival Guide To Long Term Food Storage: Part 1
By Hal Licino

These are troubling times indeed with economic, climatic, and social upheavals and wild gyrations of every type in every corner of our planet.

Although I would not specifically ever rate myself as a "survivalist" I do believe in being prepared for any eventuality: One of the most important factors towards this type of preparation is to ensure that there is an adequate food supply to last out any emergency, whether short- or long-lived.

Many foods simply cannot last without refrigeration, and one of the key aspects to being prepared is to acknowledge that electricity supply may be sporadic if it exists at all. Therefore, when all of the options of the various comestibles are carefully considered, it turns out that the only type of food product which can be safely and conveniently stored for prolonged periods of time is grain.

Grains are extremely nutritious and if they are paired with sources of animal protein, can go a long way towards forming a properly balanced diet. At times of no refrigeration it is imperative that animal protein be secured fresh on an ongoing basis, and it is not my intention to delve into a fishing and hunting guide Hub. There are more than enough sources of that information readily available.

If you're intending to store food for a prolonged period of time, buying grains locally is a great idea. There is one thing you definitely want to watch out for and that's that you most certainly don't want to store treated seed prepared for planting. It is always colored to warn you, usually with a pink or red dye. Depending on the kind of seed, that coloration indicates that it is covered with pesticides or fungicides. Don't ever try to eat this as it is extremely poisonous.

If you live in wheat country and get wind of a neighboring farmer who is going to plant some winter wheat, you might want to ask them if perhaps they would sell a bit to you in the spring. Keep in mind that wheat straight out of the combine still has a lot of chaff, foreign seeds, and even tiny rocks in it. In the spring before the farmer plants their wheat they get it cleaned and treated at a seed cleaning plant which takes all that foreign matter out so you don't have to. Ask your farmer friend if they will clean a couple of extra hundred pounds for you. Then get it before it's "treated" with those red chemicals and you'll have a supply of perfectly good, edible grain.

You have heard "store foods in a cool, dry place" your whole life, and it's absolutely true. The best storage temperatures are below 10 degrees C (50 degrees F) and the optimum storage temperature is close to 4 degrees C (40 degrees F). It's also extremely important to make sure that the temperature is as constant as possible. Big swings in temperature can ruin stored foods in a very short time.

According to The United States Department of Agriculture, (USDA): "Each 5.6 degrees Centigrade (10 degrees Fahrenheit) drop in temperature doubles the storage life of the seeds." Of course the bottom level of this scale is at the freezing point, at which level it is irrelevant to keep reducing the temperature.

Another important aspect to maximize food storage times is to limit or outright eliminate the access to oxygen of the food product you're storing. I'll get into greater detail on how to accomplish that later in these Hubs.

The Survival Guide To Long Term Food Storage: Part 2

Let's look at the different types of grains to consider storing, and how each one stacks up against the others:
Hard Grains
Dry Corn
Durum Wheat
Hard White Wheat
Hard Red Wheat
Soft Wheat
Hard grains are the longest lasting of all the food products, as their outer shell acts as a natural hermetically sealed container. Under optimal oxygen free conditions at a stable, constant, cool room temperature expect up to twenty-five years of storage.
Soft Grains
Hulled or Pearled Oat
Rolled Oats
These have relatively soft outer shells which fail to protect the delicate and fragile seed interior to the same degree as the seeds which have harder shells. These soft grains will not store for as long a period as the hard grains. Under optimal oxygen free conditions at a stable, constant, cool room temperature expect up to fifteen years of storage.
Garbanzo Beans
Blackeye Beans
Adzuki Beans
Black Turtle Beans
Kidney Beans
Great Northern
Lima Beans
Pink Beans
Mung Beans
Small Red Beans
Pinto Beans
Soy Beans
Beans lose their internal oils as they age and then will resist absorbing water and swelling to make them easily edible. Under optimal oxygen free conditions at a stable, constant, cool room temperature expect up to twenty years of storage.
Pasta tends to last longer than flour in storage, of course it must be kept meticulously dry. Under optimal oxygen free conditions at a stable, constant, cool room temperature expect up to eighteen years of storage.
Dehydrated Vegetables
Green Beans
Fully dehydrated vegetables are excellent candidates for long term storage. Under optimal oxygen free conditions at a stable, constant, cool room temperature expect up to eighteen years of storage.
Dehydrated Fruits
Fruits can last a surprisingly long time in dehydrated storage conditions. Under optimal oxygen free conditions at a stable, constant, cool room temperature expect up to twenty years of storage.
Dehydrated Dairy
Butter or Margarine Powder
Cocoa Powder
Cheese Powder
Powder Eggs
Powder Milk
Whey Powder
Fat free dairy products tend to store for much longer periods than those that contain fat. Under optimal oxygen free conditions at a stable, constant, cool room temperature expect up to four years of storage.
Flour & Cracked Seed Products
White Flour
Bakers Flour
All Purpose Flour
Unbleached Flour
Whole Wheat Flour
Refried Beans
Cracked Wheat
Wheat Flakes
Once the seed's outer shell has been broken, the nutrients inside the seed begin to degrade. Under optimal oxygen free conditions at a stable, constant, cool room temperature expect up to six years of storage.
Optimal oxygen free conditions at a stable, constant, cool room temperature are critical to store all of these following food products for a prolonged period of time:
Brown Rice
White Rice
Peanut Butter Powder
With all of these foods you can expect up to five years of storage.

Salt and Sugar should last virtually forever if kept oxygen free, cool and dry.

The Survival Guide To Long Term Food Storage: Part 3

Naturally, you're going to need somewhere to store all this food, and large plastic containers that can be hermetically sealed are the best. However, you don't have to order these plastic containers by the hundred from your local supplier and pay thousands of dollars. If you need access to free plastic containers your local donut shop, pizzeria, or grocery store deli and bakery should be able to provide all your needs.

These types of food establishments receive a large percentage of the ingredients they utilize in their daily activities in large, food grade plastic containers which can readily be re-used. When they are empty, the managers of these businesses have to confront the expensive process of having dozens, hundreds, or even thousands of these perfectly good and totally re-usable plastic containers carted to the landfill or away for recycling.

The best way to proceed is to contact the manager of these places. Tell them you would appreciate any and all containers they are about to throw away. Meet them in person and hand them your name and phone number on an index card. Suggest they tape it by the phone. Assure them you'll pick them up on a regular basis. Then, keep your word. These establishments can get in big trouble if they have loads of dirty buckets sitting around, as health inspectors will crucify them.

You'll find that you will be able to obtain six gallon pails with lids from the donut store, one gallon glass and plastic jars with lids from the pizza shops and delis, and four gallon square plastic containers with lids from the bakeries. These items are all food grade so you certainly don't have to worry about any chemicals leaching out and contaminating your food.

Once you get the containers home make sure to scrub them energetically with hot, soapy water inside and out. Most labels will soak right off in hot water alone. A readily available product called GooGone will take the stickier labels off plastic buckets easily: Just squirt a little bit onto the label and let it soak. In a few minutes the label will lift off with a minimum of scraping. It is also a great idea to soak the containers after scrubbing with a little bleach to disinfect them both inside and out. Make sure to rinse thoroughly with lots of fresh running water as you certainly don't want the active ingredient in bleach, sodium hypochlorite, to come into contact with your food. After this, if any plastic containers retain a smell of their previous contents or even the bleach, fill them with crumbled newspapers sprinkled with baking soda and put the lid back on. Set these aside for a couple of weeks in a warm spot. Most times it takes the aroma clean out and leaves nothing but a neutral scent.

If you find that the managers at the local food establishments will supply these containers to you, don't forget to send them a note and let them know how much you appreciate their efforts. Remember: You don't have to spend a lot of money on your extremely important food storage containers if you use your noggin.

The Survival Guide To Long Term Food Storage: Part 4

People who live in a small house or an apartment can have trouble finding places to put their food storage so their place doesn't look like an overstocked food bank warehouse all the time. The last thing someone wants to see is a stack of five or six gallon buckets behind the living room door! That might lead your guests to asking some rather sensitive questions. There are various ways of getting around this:

1. Get rid of the bed box springs. Put down one layer of buckets or two layers of boxes and lay a 1/2 inch piece of plywood (or pieces if you have a larger bed) and throw your mattress on top of this. The lady of the house (or the man if he's handy with needle and thread) can sew a dust ruffle and hang it around the plywood so no one would ever notice it was there. You can do this in just about every bedroom in the house and cover a multitude of sins... and supplies.

2. Make a false wall in your living room by hanging a ceiling to floor curtain that runs wall to wall about two feet or so out from one wall. You can stack more buckets, bags and cases of food behind this than you will need room for. If you do this in a room that is already on the cramped side, you'll have to become accustomed to the smaller space.

3. Have one of the kids sacrifice their closet for the cause and let them double up their clothes with a sibling in another closet.

4. Do you have a dry crawl space? Throw it in there. Don't store any food in the attic as it's way too hot in the summer time.

5. Be as creative as you can. Look around your house to find places to hide it or build around it.

If you live in a climate where it's almost always humid and hot, like south Florida, you might want to try superpails buried in the ground. These are six gallon buckets that have an additional Mylar bag outside for extra protection. These buckets haven't been government approved for storing in the ground and there isn't any data to support this idea either positively or negatively. If you are going to put them in the ground, please do it at your own risk.

The Mylar bags will have to be sealed and the easiest way to ensure an airtight permanent seal is by using a hot iron. It is a very good idea to experiment first by slicing a few strips off a Mylar bag first and testing your iron to make sure it's at the correct temperature. This technique works just as well if you're using smaller bags to just store food in directly, and not using the Mylar bags to add an additional level of seal protection to a big six gallon pail.

Generally you can use the iron setting on Polyester / Wool / Cotton. All irons should have this setting, as it is extremely common. Let the iron get good and hot. Use a piece of material similar to flannel: an old pillowcase would be perfect. Fold over the end of the Mylar bag. Place the cloth over the top of the Mylar and hold the iron on the material for about twenty seconds. Then you can move to next section of Mylar and hold the iron on the material for another twenty seconds. Continue this process all along the length of bag until you're finished. The Mylar will be extremely hot so make sure that you do not touch it at this time. If you don't wait for the Mylar to cool, you will be able to open the edges. Once it cools it should be well sealed.

The Survival Guide To Long Term Food Storage: Part 5

It would be many times better to build some kind of underground room to store your long term food stash than to actually bury your buckets. Many buckets would permit small amounts of moisture into the bucket over many months or years. It actually wouldn't take a lot of moisture to make your dry packed food unusable.

Some folks who live in very hot or very cold climates sink 33 gallon trash barrels into the ground. A power auger does a great job of loosening up all of the dirt to do this, otherwise it is one heck of a tough hand shovelling task. you would need to place the bottoms of barrels three feet under the surface grade level. You leave only about an inch or two of the perimeter of the barrel above ground--just enough to fit the lid on securely. Obviously, you don't put the barrel or the hole it's meant to fit into out in the hot sun, especially in the warmer latitudes. The best place is in a covered spot that is shady, in a shed, etc.

Depending on your weather you may want to pile loose straw or hay on top of the barrel tops, or even some attic insulation will work: anything that minimizes the daily fluctuation of temperature. This works in both hot and cold climates. Folks in frigid areas often use these buried barrels as miniature cold cellars to store garden veggies, without processing, below the usual soil frost line in their region.

Keep in mind that these buried storage methods are in no way the optimal method for long term food storage. The best way to store grain for both the retention of the extremely valuable nutrients and for its future viability as seed is to subject the grain to subfreezing temperatures. It is extremely important to ensure that the grain must be extremely dry: the ideal level is 8% moisture. 10% is still acceptable but as soon as we start approaching the 15-20% mark, we run into problems.

These exceedingly low moisture levels are such a strong prerequisite to any stored grain because water expands as it freezes and forms ice crystals. If there is an excess of water left in the cytoplasm of the cells of the grain, the expanding crystals will skew the structure of the water containing molecules and can even rip the cell walls: effectively killing the seed. Once the seed has been frozen it is still acceptable for some food purposes. These grains would not be suitable for grinding in flour mills, but are generally boiled whole to serve as rice, orzo, or couscous substitutes, in soups, chowders, and other similar preparations.

Don't worry too much about requiring sensitive scientific instruments to measure the precise level of moisture in any particular grain. The general rules of thumb to ensure that the moisture level is low enough are:

Long seeds that are bent must break cleanly in half with an audible "snap" sound.

Corn and wheat seeds must shatter and turn into powder when smashed with a hammer.

Peas, beans and other large seeds must shatter, but not necessarily powder like corn.

The Survival Guide To Long Term Food Storage: Part 6

If the seed has been dried well and stored in air-tight containers with silica gel or another desiccant in them, there should be zero effect on either food nutritional or germination quality.

When foods are packed in air they cannot keep as well as when they are packed in oxygen free gases. The reason for this is because air contains 78% nitrogen, 21% oxygen, and approximately 1% of a variety of other gases. It is the oxygen content of the atmosphere alone which oxidizes the majority of the chemical compounds found in food. Bacteria is just one of several things which make food turn rancid and the vast majority of bacteria require an ample supply oxygen to grow.

There are basically two different processes for removing the oxygen in stored foods:

Oxygen Displacement: This process involves purging out all of the air in the food container to be stored with nitrogen. The reason why nitrogen is utilized in almost all cases is due to the fact that it is the most inert gas in the atmosphere. However, individuals who are accustomed to doing their own packing in some cases apply dry ice which gives off carbon dioxide, a gas that works about as well as nitrogen.

Oxygen Absorption: If the oxygen from the air in a sealed container is absorbed, what remains is almost pure nitrogen in a partial vacuum. Military food storage methods often include a small package of oxygen absorber being added to the bread ration. This oxygen absorber contains salt, iron, and natural zeolith impregnated with a salt solution. The process of "rusting" involves the oxidation of the iron and the process will use the oxygen in any surrounding atmosphere as long as there is any significant moisture to feed the "rusting" process. It will also work with water but at a slower pace. It is important to ensure that the container is completely and hermetically sealed, otherwise oxygen will leak in and obviate the effect of the oxygen absorber. These oxygen absorbers are readily available from a multitude of sources on the internet.

Once you get around to opening up your grain storage you have to keep in mind that opened wheat will keep well for a considerable amount of time as long as it does not become infested or wet. Moisture will make it mold and ruin the grain and you definitely don't want to eat moldy grain. Not only can it make you sick, but the witch hunts in the early Americas may have been accentuated by a form of mold in wheat that has hallucinogenic properties. (No, not Hal Licinogenic properties!) Another horrible effect of wet grain is that it will quickly become a home for all sorts of insect pests and unless you like your grain with a side of bug, that could not be too palatable.

However, you can just dump your wheat into buckets and not worry about insects... just be sure to stock plenty of oil so that you can fry up the insects and the grubs when you open the container up again. While you do lose some calories eating fried bugs and grubs, the protein is animal protein and therefore more complete.

The average protein level in grains is 12 percent of calories, in nuts and seeds 13 percent; in pulses 26 percent; and in fish, meat & poultry 28 percent. Most insects are up to 80% protein, and it's just as high quality and nutritious as the protein from any other source!

The Survival Guide To Long Term Food Storage: Part 7

Whether or not you are interested in harvesting bugs from your wet grain, or if you want to try to eliminate them, these are three main points:

1. Heat will make eggs hatch. The supermarket I regularly shopped at when I lived in the Caribbean had bugs running around like crazy in the spice and nut jars as well as in the pasta packages. You could just pick up a plastic bag of pasta and watch the bug races. The pancake mixes (which of course had the basic ingredient being wheat flour) were subject to exactly the same problem, except that they were packaged in kraft paper bags so that I wouldn't notice until I got the package home and opened the bag to find all sorts of tiny teeny cobwebs, or a very small kind of fly that could even chew its way clear out of the bag! Yikes!

2. It is well nigh impossible to effectively clean all eggs out of the grain products that are available in the supermarkets at the original source so you certainly have no chance of doing that yourself. There are simply too many nooks and crannies for the bugs to lay their eggs in, and there is no way that they can all be effectively removed. Quality control processes in food processing plants allow the product to "pass" if there is an allowable percentage of insect eggs, fragments, and other bits and pieces of the good Lord know what do not exceed the allowable amounts. Hard to believe but true.

3. Nitrogen flushing done in sequence followed by a complete vacuum pressure evacuation of the food storage jar or bag prior its sealing is just about the most effective process that anyone can complete in order to eliminate oxygen to the greatest extent possible. Assuming that you have comparable densities, there would be far less air in a bag with 10 pounds of wheat versus a bag with 10 pounds of golf balls, as the volume between the golf balls would simply not be possible to completely evacuate to satisfactory extents. In roughly equal quantities of grain versus beans, grain would be the better food product which would allow itself to evacuate more air.

Consider the brick packs of ground coffee that you may see on the grocery shelves: the ones that at their packing plant have so much atmosphere sucked out of the bag that they are as hard as a brick, and when you rip them open they "whoosh". Even with this high level of vacuum the process still will not eliminate all of the air out of the container. Take a brick box of coffee with you the next time you go from sea level to the mountains, you'll be amazed! You will find that the brick pack will soften a bit at high altitude and that is due to the lower air pressure up there.

The bottom line is that maximum oxygen evacuation, nitrogen flushing, and immediate sealing with a quality vapor barrier container preferably with multiple layers is the best way to ensure effective long term storage. Naturally, the place where you store these containers must be consistently cool and not subject to considerably warmer temperature fluctuations. It is feasible that the container will have such a tiny amount of oxygen that whatever little bug manages to hatch will suffocate shortly afterwards, but I certainly wouldn't want to take all of these careful and expensive precautions and then discover that this was not what was happening and the darned bugs started to multiply like crazy. Keep in mind that excessive moisture could still be a problem in the formation of mold regardless of the extensive precautions mentioned in this Hub so it pays to be vigilant!

The Survival Guide To Long Term Food Storage: Part 8

Part of the Mormon food storage folk lore is that you toss a couple of sticks of spearmint gum in a bucket of wheat before you seal it. It is supposedly effective to stick several bay leaves in the flour canister as well.

Another way to treat grains that are intended for extended storage periods is to add Diatomaceous earth around them. Diatomaceous earth is actually the defunct carcasses of a series of microscopic, one celled protozoans. These are cells with sharp, complex, pointy, virtually crystal-like "shells" when their moisture is taken away from them and they are dried. Diatomaceous earth is primarily harvested from areas where seas were once present.

This Diatomaceous earth is a primary component of toothpaste: it's the grit that actually scrubs your teeth clean and is also used in compounding waxes for automotive applications and various other products where microscopic "sanding" is required. These sharp edged dead protozoans are lethal to soft-bodied insects who end up impaling their bodies on the super sharp protrusions and spikes of these "shells" which are actually quite pretty when observed under the microscope.

The insects that prey on beans and grains are primarily categorized into larva and beetle sub-groupings. Larvae are quite vulnerable to death by the sharp spikes of diatom, but armor-covered beetles are much more resistant. Diatmaceous earth is an excellent product to sprinkle on the soil around plants you want to protect from the various slugs and snails who want to make a meal out of them. The diatoms pierce their tender bellies and kills them!

Storage in grain bags or sacks made out of burlap or any other cloth-like material is most certainly not an effective manner to keep those grains comestible for long periods of time. Both rodent and insect pests as well as mold can destroy a cloth bag of grain in less than a year, even if the sack is stored well off the ground at a cool temperature in a dry area. If the sack is left on the ground or on a moist surface such as damp concrete, the period of time that can elapse for full contamination can be less than a week!

When you open a bucket of grain you should make a point to use it as quickly as you can, and you won't have to worry about what happens to it as it will be gone before it can go bad.

Once the grain has exceeded the acceptable limits of moisture it most likely will have to be dried before it can be consumed or milled. To test whether a particular grain which has exceeded the recommended moisture limits is still suitable for human consumption, sprout some. If it sprouts, it is still quite good to eat, but if not, it should not be consumed by humans or pet / livestock animals. The time it takes for grains to sprout can exceed a week, but remember the old dictum: "When in doubt, throw it out."

A good use of grain if you can catch it just as it gets wet is to sprout it on purpose. Sprouted grain is very sweet and crunchy and makes a quick, handy, readily portable and highly nutritious snack!

If you take careful precautions and are extremely meticulous in your efforts to control the various aspects of emergency and survival food storage, you will find that grains are close to the perfect long term stored nutrient. And they taste great too!

38,922 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
How to Survive the End of the World a Survival Guide to Living Through The End Times

By Cow Flipper

Could This Be The End?

Read this article and then visit: The End Times Survival Network

OMG IT'S THE END OF THE WORLD! The earth is shaking, the sun is spewing off waves of flaming death, a comet is breaking up in the atmosphere, a huge tsunami is headed right towards us, hurricanes are blowing, ice sheets are melting, the ocean is on fire... We've all watched those end of the world movies where the huge meteor or comet is coming to end life as we know it. We've seen the specials in discovery channel and TLC but what does knowing about them do for us? The question of how will it happen haunts us? A pandemic that kills off billions? A blinding flash of atomic fire? A mountain sized meteor smacking into the Earth at twenty five thousand miles per hour? Or will it be sea levels rising or a new ice age? There are so many different scenarios, so many different ways in which humanity can be destroyed. But the real question is this, will you be ready for when it happens? Most of us wouldn't know the first thing about how to survive a catastrophe much less the end of the world. So whats the point? If the end of the world as we know it does come then what can we do about it?

The only thing one can do is be prepared. This hub article will explain how you can prepare for the absolute worst case scenario from localized disasters like earthquakes, and hurricanes to a catastrophic event like a meteor impact.

What You Need To Do; The Basics of Survival

Oh crud, the fits hit the shan and you are still alive. What should you expect to happen next? Well with humanity on the brink, the world's infrastructure demolished, resources now horded or scarce the only thing one can do in a situation like this one is have your own plan to make it through the troubled times ahead. You have to be prepared for anything... knowledge will be your best friend now and it will get you through even the hardest times.

It is said you can live this long:
  • Three minutes without air
  • Three hours without warmth
  • Three days without water
  • Three weeks without food
These things are your priorities. Keep that in mind when planning your survival routine!

So your List should go as follows:
  1. Shelter
  2. Water
  3. Food
The Worst Case:
So the end is near, humanity is going into the brink so what the heck should we do about it? Well get ready! With all the crazy stuff going on in the world all the time it is probably a good idea to have your ducks in a row when it comes to survival. I'm not saying go out and spend a hundred grand on a bomb shelter in Wyoming but having a plan and a place to go is probably a good idea. If you live in a city like New York or Los Angeles your best bet is to have a preplanned escape route outside the normal busy corridors that most motorists are going to be using. Find a more rural route out of the city and have a safe zone somewhere in the country.

I'd stay clear of touristy mountain retreats and camp grounds. The best thing to do is get yourself a BLM map and find a nice piece of ground some place in good to moderate terrain deep in the woods away from the craziness of the fleeing masses. You'll want to make sure that your location has fresh water, that is an essential. Make sure it doesn't get to cold where you are going or that it gets so hot nothing grows. You want moderate terrain, water, and readily available materials to build a shelter.

You will also want to scout this place out before you head off into the woods to seek your refuge. Have a place prepared for your arrival. Have things stored at the site. This will at least give you the knowledge and the peace of mind that if something horrible is going down you will at least have a place and a plan to put into action once it does.

The Plan:
  • Stay in your home as long as you possibly can. Use the homes resources first, turn on your water in your tub and fill the bathtub, fill all the sinks, remember you have water in your water heater and in the basin of your toilet tank. Have propane or charcoal for your Bar B Q and cook anything that may spoil from your fridge.
  • Stay inside for at least a week and keep a low profile. Remember people will start to get desperate within a few days of the disaster.
  • You should have a place to go or at least an idea of a safe zone away from prying eyes but close enough to readily available resources such as water and defensible terrain good enough to grow on.
  • Have a route you can take either by bicycle or by walking, (you don't want your safe zone two hundred miles away from your home.)
  • Have something you can use to transport your supplies like a hand wagon with bike tires.
  • Have some supplies buried at your predestined safe zone where only you know where it is. (start now and pick out the spot and visit there, find where you'd want the supplies to be and then get to storing it).
Things You'll Need:
  • Water Storage and Water Purification tablets and a Water Source
  • Food Storage for up to one year
  • Heritage seeds for a permanent food source (pre-stored)
  • Survival Gear and Camping Supplies (Military Grade) (pre-stored)
  • All Weather Clothing and Sturdy Footwear (Army Surplus Military Grade Clothing)
  • Fire Starting Supplies (Lighters, Strike Anywhere Matches, & Flint) (pre-stored)
  • A Shotgun, and a Rifle (For Hunting and Protection) (pre-stored)
  • Ammunition Supplies (pre-stored)
  • A Survival Guide for Surviving out in Nature
  • A Book on Edible Wild Mushrooms, Plants, and Herbs
  • Medical Supplies and Triage Supplies for up to 20 people (pre-stored)
  • A Power Source or Power Sources (Solar Cells, Batteries, a Generator & Gasoline)
  • A Permanent Hidden Shelter Protected from the Elements and Camouflaged
Food Preparation and Safety:
When the power is down cooking and eating habits have to change. With limited fuel for heating and cooking food, no refrigeration, and limited water supplies you will have to be prepared to rations food and cook what you can with what you have.

Use Fuel Sparingly
  1. Try to eat as much canned, dehydrated, and prepared ready to eat foods as possible to save on fuel.
  2. If you have a fireplace use it for cooking by wrapping food in foil packs to heat it up.
  3. Try to have sterno fuel cans in your gear.
  4. Make a hobo stove or oven out of old tin cans are large drums to boil water for teas and soups.
Canned Foods:
  • Use those canned foods that will go bad first. Use this sites Storeitfoods.com list as a guideline.
  • Rotate your oldest supplies to the front of your storage so that you use those first.
  • Use foods that need very little to no preparation.
Dehydrated Foods:
  • Foods like dehydrated fruits and vegitables either canned or vacuum packaged can keep for a very long time.
  • Again rotate your oldest supplies to the front of your storage and use them first.
Wild Foods:
  • When all your resources for food are used up you will have to forage. Dandelions and other wild flowers and plants can be used as both medicinal cures and food.
  • Trapping rabbits alive is a good idea as long as you can build a pen to house them in. Having rabbits for fur and food is a good idea since they reproduce rapidly and are easy to take care of.
  • Collecting wild seeds and planting them will yeild you a good crop for the future.
  1. Commercial canned foods can always be eaten straight from the can.
  2. Do not eat from cans that have any residue around the rim of the can because of botulism.
  3. Reuse your unused canned liquids to make soup stocks for other meals.
  4. Use left over fruit juices for salads and for meat marinades.
Health Precautions
  • Boil water that you use for cooking for ten minutes.
  • Do not eat foods that spoil easily like meats from an unknown or questionable source.
  • If feeding a child make sure you have powdered milk and canned milk. (always use a fresh bottle and open a new can to feed the child and use boiled water for the powdered milk).
  • Always use clean utensils when eating.
  • Always boil your containers, cooking gear, and
4. Prepare and eat foods in their original containers, if possible. This will help if dishwashing facilities are limited.

Environmental Injury and Treatments:

Here is a list of environmental health issues when trying to survival out in the wild; heatstroke, hypothermia, diarrhea, and parasites. These things are treatable with modern medicine but when there is no drug store to go to you will have to know how to care for them yourself.


If a person's core body temperature reaches over [105 degrees F]) this can cause heatstroke. Heat can cause other problems such as cramps and dehydration.

These are signs and symptoms of a heatstroke
  • A swollen, red face.
  • Bloodshot eyes.
  • Not sweating.
  • Delirium, which can cause pallor, a bluish color to lips and nail beds (cyanosis), and cool clammy skin.
What to do! Get the person to cool down as quickly as possible. Submerge them in cool water or any water source. Keep their under-arms, their neck, and their crotch cool with water. Wet their head since most of the heat from the body is lost through the scalp. Rehydrate with plenty of water.

Symptoms during cooling:
  • Vomiting.
  • Diarrhea.
  • Struggling or fighting.
  • Shivering.
  • Shouting.
  • Unconsciousness
Trench Foot

If your feet are exposed to wet conditions just over freezing your muscles and nerves may become damaged. If this happens gangrene can set in and cause the flesh on your feet to die and this will result in an amputation. Keep your feet dry and have extra clean dry socks. Wash your feet daily.


Hypothermia occurs when the bodies core temperature is not maintained above 97 degrees F. Dehydration and lack of sustenance can lead to hypothermia when the body no longer has enough energy to carry blood to the extremities. Keeping the person dry and warm and feeding them warm soup and fluids is key. Place the person by a fire or snuggle close to the person to keep them warm with a blanket.


Very common when drinking untreated or contaminated water or spoiled food along with eating off of unclean surfaces. Though in our modern world of convenience diarrhea may seem something of an inconvenience with Milk of Magnesia and Pepto we won't have these remedies available unless you've supplied them and then what happens when they run out? You have to know how to treat it yourself with what is available. Diarrhea can be fatal because of dehydration.

  • Drink very little the first 24 hours.
  • Drink teas with tannic acid this will help control the diarrhea. Hardwood tree bark has tannic acid and if seeped in boiling water for 2 hours it will release the tannic acid.
  • Eat a handful of chalk, charcoal, or powdered bone mixed with clean water and dried citrus fruit every two hours until the diarrhea slows or stops.
Getting Water and Cleaning Water for Drinking:
Water will be your hardest and most important survival resource you must have. There are ways to get water even in the most desperate of times. Here we will go over a few.
  1. A dew trench collector a rock, a shovel, some rocks, and a tarp is all you will need for this device to work. Dig a 4 foot wide 4 foot deep hole and place the tarp over the hole with rocks with one clean stone and some fresh leaves at the bottom of the trench. Do this in the late evening and leave it over night. In the morning go back and remove the stone and the leaves from the trench and collect the dew.
  2. A water distillery to clean dirty water a metal drum or a metal trashcan can be converted into a stove if you cut out parts of the side near the open top and then turned upside-down with newspaper and wood to burn as fuel. place a full sealed tea pot with a hose connected to the spout to a container next to the stove. The boiled steam will collect into the container. This is distilled water and will be clean of all heavy materials. Retreat the water with two drops of bleach and then wait an hour before drinking.
  3. Water cleaning tablets and chemicals using chlorine based bleach with 2 drops per gallon of water you can sterilize water if you leave it for an hour or two.
  4. UV Lights using ultraviolet lights you can also kill micro-organisms in water.
  5. A Well digging a well may seems like a daunting task but three men can do it as long as they have the right tools. Shovels, 2x4's, ladders, a poly system, rope, buckets, and pick axes are the tools you will need. You can line the well with stones once you have reached the level where water is seeping in filling the bottom of the well. Placing stones at the bottom of the well will help clean the water. Then motor stones around the well wall.
Shelter and Warmth:
  • In Urban areas an abandoned house or building is a good place top set up camp. Remember to cook outdoors.
  • In the woods the base of a burned out tree, a small tree canopy with a hole dug at the base, or a cave are all acceptable dwellings. (Watch out for animals and their dens since they can be territorial and deadly).
  • If you can find abandoned mattresses and you have a way to debug the mattress then you can use these to build yourself an insulated shelter. If the outsides are wrapped in tarps or plastic then they can even be water proofed and used as outdoor shelters. Using wire or coat hangers and pliers you can connect them to make a semi-permanent dwelling. Cover the front with a plastic sheet to use as a door have it facing a heat-source to maintain warmth. The great thing about this little trick is that the dwelling is insulated.
  • If caught in the cold without weather proof clothing then find what you can to use for insulation. News Paper is a great insulator, you can also use leaves if you must. Stuff your clothing with these insulators to keep your body heat.
These are basic survival techniques and knowing them can save your life and the lives of those you love.

38,922 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
Homeless Survival : Stealth Living

By Ghost32
The Basic Concept

Stealth living is just one method among many used by homeless people in their quest for survival...but when all else fails, it's an important method. Before providing examples of stealth living, though, how about a definition?


Stealth living, in the context of this hub, refers to the ability of a homeless person to find and utilize sleeping quarters that are consistently safe, relatively comfortable, and absolutely invisible to those who would "roust the bum" if they knew where he (or she) might be snoozing.

Our friend, Red Elk, has long been a master of this art. He's written (on my survival cabin hub and on his own website) of his ability to build a shelter from nothing but a pile of leaves in the woods or even to sleep in a small patch of bushes in the middle of Detroit...with none of the "civilians" passing by ever having the slightest clue he was there. In the woods, even deer have jumped over his sleeping form without noticing his presence.

Hard to beat that.

My own wife, Pam, spent two years homeless, often setting up a stealth living campsite on public land that went unnoticed by Ranger Rick for weeks on end.

Even I, though never quite technically homeless, have napped contentedly without observation under rock overhangs and even hidden my car in the middle of San Diego for a full night's sleep when more traditional accommodations were too expensive to consider.

The Champion of them all, however, has to be a lady we'll call Jenny (not her real name). She and her husband run a small business these days; no one would guess Jenny was once homeless for five full years.

For all five of those years, she proved herself the absolute master of stealth living, making her camp in just one spot and never once moving it for all that time.

Where? Are you ready for this? For five years, she lived under the front porch of an occupied house...and the owners of the home never knew she was there.

Just Guessing, But...

Jenny and I haven't had the opportunity to go into the myriad details that would have to be involved with a living arrangement like that, so here's my semi-educated guess regarding just a few aspects of this homeless survival technique.
1. Location, location, location. The chosen porch would need to be situated in a state where snow does not accumulate--so that tracks to and from your hideout would not become a dead giveaway with the first winter storm.
2. It would also need to be an area you could access without being noticed, at least after dark, and also within walking distance (no more than a few miles) from your daily "hunting grounds" in town...whether you're panhandling, looking for work, making the food bank rounds, dumpster diving, etc.
3. The home's residents must not have pets who could (and would) sense your presence and give you away. (Jenny did mention this point.)
4. The porch would have to be constructed in such a way that you could get in and out of an access door quickly and quietly.
5. You'd have to be willing to "sweep" nightly to clear the area of spiders, scorpions, snakes, and such--with minimum or zero light to assist you.
6. Never would you either "go porch" or leave the camp except under cover of darkness. Never. If you were exhausted, slept in until noon one day, too bad. You're there for the day, kiddo. Period.
7. No partners. In this world, a secret can be kept by two people...if one of them is dead. You'd need to guard against being followed to your hideout as zealously as the old gold rush miners guarded against claim jumpers tracking them to the mother lode.
8. Any time you couldn't avoid relieving yourself "in position", you'd have to use a portable container...and carry the pee or poo with you the next time you went out, disposing of it far, far elsewhere (and pity the next dumpster diver!).
9. You could never, ever, ever afford to lose focus. Even the slightest mistake in your security routine could result in discovery.
10. A bit of spiritual protection couldn't hurt!
As readers discover this hub, it is our hope that those who've had experiences in stealth living will leave comments. Homeless survival is no laughing matter...and you never know when a little hint might mean the difference between life and death for others.

Finally: Jenny, if you happen to read this, please do let me know how close I came to guessing the rules by which you lived for those five long years.

38,922 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
Surviving hard times

By Stormy Brain

Surviving hard times links

  • Finance Info and money
    Investing, money, stock market, and personal finance articles and resources
  • Surviving Hard Times
    This is a great article about how to survive hard times. It is a question about how to survive with increased prices in gas, food, and other expenses, and offers answers from people who have something to say.
  • Surviving Hard Times
    This is a great article for the average family who wants to learn how to better survive hard times, including job loss, economic hardships, and unexpected financial expenses such as hospital bills, etc.
  • Surviving Recession
    This site offers some great tips for surviving a recession, and things you can do to prepare for a recession. It offers tips for securing your job, cutting back your living expenses, and more.

When times get hard and finances are tight it can be tough to figure out how you are going to survive month to month, pay your bills, and put food on the table. The following are some good tips for preparing yourself for hard times, and surviving them when they hit. Some of the tips are a little bit extreme, others are stuff you can do on a daily basis to make surviving hard times much easier.

One of the most important parts of surviving hard times is having food to eat, and ways to feed yourself and your children. With the economy starting to decline, and with foreign trade prices increasing, we are seeing a rise in grocery prices. Most experts agree that the food prices are not going to go down, and may even increase as much as double in the next few years. In order to help yourself survive some tough times, and to be able to feed your family with high grocery prices, it is a good idea to stick up on non-perishable items, and store some food in your home. You can start small and buy a few extra items each time you go to the store. If you are worried you have no place to store extra food, consider using spaces like under the bed. You can fit hundreds of pounds of rice, beans, tuna, etc. in the space under the bed, and should you barely have enough money to make your bills, you will be grateful to have that food under there. Think about the foods you like to eat, and stock up on anything that is non-perishable that you use. For example, if you love pasta, stock up on the pasta noodles, and the sauce.

When times are hard, it can be difficult to pay to heat and cool your home. One thing that most people do not realize is that they can handle far colder or warmer conditions than they think. Cut your heating and cooling costs down significantly by turning your heater off, and bundling yourself up in sweaters and blankets. Turn it off at night and use an extra comforter. Cook more meals, and let the stove heat your home.

Sometimes it is far less expensive to keep the family in one room, and use a small space heater to heat that space, then to heat a whole house.

If you do want to use your heater, consider closing vents to rooms that are not occupied often, and in the bedrooms. Also set the heat lower so you spend less. Your body will adjust. In the summer, take advantage of the evening breezes by using windows and fans. Keep blinds shut, and curtains drawn so that less heat gets in through your windows. When times are tight, and you are just trying to make ends meet you will learn that surviving a house that is too hot is much easier than figuring out a way to pay a high electric bill.


If you are struggling to survive hard times it is important that you make changes to help yourself out. For example, a vehicle can be extremely expensive to maintain. Besides the cost of licensing and fuel you have maintenance costs such as oil changes, tire rotations, etc. So, instead of letting your budget hemorrhage because you think you need a car, sell it, and invest the money you make off it into food, and paying other bills, and buy yourself a messenger bicycle. These bikes have a basket so you can grocery shop. You can then make a more concerted effort to car pool, use public transportation, etc. You will find that asking the neighbor to pick up groceries for you when they do their shopping is not nearly as embarrassing as you think, and can help you make ends meet. In addition to finding ways to get food on the table and pay your bills, you need to use precaution when trying to survive tough times. For example, do not buy something with the plans to sell something else to pay for it. Sell the something else first. Do not quit a job hoping to find a better paying one. Find the better paying one first.

Next, if you want to survive hard times, it is crucial that you figure out a way to bring in an income. You will want to assess your job situation.

When hard times hit, jobs often disappear, so make sure you are someone that is dependable, that people like, and that would be very difficult to fire. The more valuable you are to your employer, the higher chance you will have of keeping your job. You may need to take a pay decrease, or work less, but any income is better than none when times are tight.

Next, one of the best tips for surviving hard times is to have some rainy day money set aside for it. This is a reality few people have. But the truth is, if you can plan ahead and build an emergency fund, surviving hard times will be a lot easier. Experts all say that you should have at least three to six months' of living expenses in a safe place such as a money market fund or savings account. This seems unreachable for some, so let's look at ways to make surviving hard times easier, and ways to cut costs so you have money to dedicate to an emergency fund, or to paying your bills if you lose a job, or find yourself in a pinch.

The best way to save more money is to spend less. So, start by cutting down on the amount you spend on things you simply do not need, like television channels, eating out, and seeing all the new movies at the theater. This can mean substantial savings that could really come in handy during a hard time financially.

Next, look for ways to increase your income in order to have more money to put aside for surviving hard times. You can do this by picking up a part time job, working some overtime if it is available, or even selling things you have and do not need.


Links: Surviving hard times

  • Can Your Personal Finances Survive a Recession
    This is a great article about how you can evaluate your finances to see if your personal finances can survive economic hardships. It gives you information on four things you can do to prepare your finances for hard times.
  • Surviving A Recession
    This is a blog that offers some great information for surviving recessions, and is specifically targeted toward learning how to keep your job and not get fired when times are tough and the economy is in a recession.
  • Surviving A Recession
    This link takes you to some great information for surviving hard times. It offers some financial advice about recession, about surviving your financial difficulties, etc. These are great tips for making hard times easier.
  • Frugal Tips to Survive a Recession
    This is a fantastic site for learning some great tips for surviving a recession by being more frugal. It offers interesting tips for being more frugal in order to survive hard times without as much damage.
If you want to know a great way to survive tough times it is to de-junk. If you are struggling, and want to come up with some money, one great way is to clean out your closets. Having a yard sale, selling clothes, furniture, décor, jewelry, etc. can be a great way to help you pay your bills or buy your groceries. Almost everyone has stuff they no longer use.

People will buy it because it will be a good deal for them, and help you earn some money.

If you want to survive hard times you have to keep yourself as out of debt as possible. Pay off credit cards so that you can use them as a rainy day fund should the need present itself. If your balance is already high, you won't have any wiggle room with them.

If you are in a real pinch, and aren't sure how to make ends meet, one option is to pull some equity out of your home to help out until you get back on track. You can open a home equity line of credit at any time, and have it there in case you need it. As long as you do not borrow from it, you won't pay on it. But, it is available to you should you need it. Just remember to practice discipline of your might put yourself in a tough time by overspending.

One of the best ways to survive hard times is to find ways to relieve stress that do not involve spending any more. Many people find their ways of relieving stress are going out, buying something new, etc. If times are tight, stress is usually high. If you spend to reduce stress, you effectively add to your stress instead. So, remember the viscous cycle and find other, no-cost stress relievers.

If you are laid off, file immediately for unemployment benefits. It can take a few weeks before it kicks in, and you do not want to rack up debt, late fees, etc. in the meantime or it will be even harder to get back on track.

If you want to survive tough times and come out relatively unscathed, stay out of debt, do not neglect your health, and don't dip into your retirement plans and investment accounts unless it is absolutely necessary. Too many people face road bumps and try to solve them by dissolving their IRA's etc. This, in the long run is a poor solution.

Basically to survive hard times, control your wants, reduce your spending, get help where you can, and do not do anything to make matters worse, like borrow too much money, empty retirement funds, etc.

Best Money Saving Tips


38,922 Posts
Discussion Starter #52
"Try to use less than lethal options, when people are trying to steal your food"

This guy is a idiot.
If that's all you found wrong, I guess the article should stay, huh :p

But please don't consider that a challenge to start crapping on this thread ;)

38,922 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
I watched a few of his videos, the guy would last 72 hours before he got raped and killed.
This was supposed to be a database of knowledge, so stop crapping all over it, please.

Provide something beneficial, or not ... But don't continue this way.

38,922 Posts
Discussion Starter #55
Survival: Know Your Dried Beans!
By habee

dried beans and survival

Beans are found in tons of American recipes. That's not really surprising when you consider that Native Americans were growing, cooking, and eating beans long before the white man set foot in the New World. I’m not sure if this is a widespread saying or not, but here in the South we often say that someone “doesn’t know beans” when he’s speaking on a topic about which he has little knowledge. By reading this article, you can be immune to such name-calling, however, because you will know beans! Dried beans have gained a lot of attention lately because of soaring food prices and economic uncertainty. Because of their high protein and the fact that they'll last for years without refrigeration, dried beans are usually at the top of any survivalist list. If you're interested in long-term storage of dried beans for survival, find out how to get free or cheap storage containers for your beans.

Dried beans, sometimes referred to as “dry beans,” are actually legumes, or pulses, and are members of the leguminosae plant family. Legumes form seed pods that tend to split when the seeds are mature, and the family includes beans and peas. When young, legumes can often be eaten fresh, like vegetables – butter beans, black-eyed peas, and scarlet runner beans, for example. Once they’ve been dried, they’re high in soluble fiber, complex carbohydrates, thiamin, iron, zinc, folacin, magnesium, copper, and manganese, while being low in fat. Beans are an inexpensive way to get needed protein, too. In fact, one cup of cooked dried beans provides more than one-third of your daily protein requirement, at an average of 230 calories. Now you understand why dried beans could be an important part of survival during emergencies. Even without electricity, the beans could be cooked over an outdoor gas cooker or even a campfire.

Several varieties can be purchased canned, and they require no cooking.

Unless you’re including them in a cold salad, however, you’ll probably want to warm them before eating. Packaged dried beans, on the other hand, almost always need to be soaked in order to reduce cooking time.

Even after soaking, most dried bean varieties need to be cooked for several hours. They’re often seasoned with onions, olive oil, chicken broth, chunks of cured ham, or powdered ham flavoring. The canned beans are easier and quicker, but the dried beans you cook yourself are much tastier.

See all 18 photos


You'll find many American recipes for dried beans.

Popular dried bean varieties

Aduki beans
Aduki, also called azuki or adzuki, beans are one of the few dried bean varieties that don’t need soaking, so they don't require as much prep time. They're small and have a slightly sweet flavor. These are the beans used to make red bean paste that's used extensively in East Asian cuisine.

Anasazi beans
This bean is sweet and firm, and it holds its shape well during cooking. It has a somewhat mealy texture and is often part of Southwestern regional cuisine. Anasazi beans should be soaked for at least five or six hours.

Black beans
Black beans have a smooth, soft texture and an earthy, mushroom-like flavor. They hold their shape well when cooked, so they're often used in salads. They also go well with corn. Black beans are popular in Mexican, Brazilian, and Cuban cuisine. Soak for a minimum of four hours.

Cranberry beans
Cranberry beans have a mild, nutty flavor reminiscent of chestnuts. They absorb other flavors readily and are popular in Northern Italian cuisine. Unfortunately, they lose their beautiful red color through the cooking process. They need to soak for at least four hours before cooking.

Flageolet beans
These beans are small, with a creamy texture. Flageolet beans are often referred to as "the caviar of beans" and are relatively expensive. They’re used widely in French cuisine and are often served with lamb. Soak for five hours before cooking.

Fava beans
Fava beans are large, very hard beans that need to soak overnight before cooking. They have a sweet, nutty taste and a creamy texture. Fava beans are popular in Mediterranean cuisine and are often added to pasta, risotto, and soups.

Great northern beans
These beans have a very mild flavor, thin skins, and a velvety texture when cooked. They readily absorb the flavors of added spices and herbs. They’re a popular ingredient in Mediterranean dishes and in French cassoulet. They need to soak for a minimum of four hours.

Kidney beans
Kidney beans have a slightly sweet flavor and a soft texture when cooked. They’re very versatile and can be used in a wide array of dishes, including chili, refried beans, and cold salads. Unlike some brightly colored beans, kidney beans retain their dark red color with cooking. Kidney beans need to soak for five or six hours before simmering.
SAFETY NOTICE ON KIDNEY BEANS ... Read the next post for information

Lima beans
These beans have a buttery, sweet, starchy taste and a smooth texture. When cooked for long periods, they create a thick, gravy-like liquid. Lima beans are native to South America and are popular in Andean foods. They're also used widely in regional Southern cuisine. Soak overnight before cooking.

Mexican red beans
Mexican red beans have a mild taste and a smooth texture. Even after sufficient cooking, they remain firm and intact. As their name implies, these beans are often part of Mexican dishes. They need to soak for at least four hours.

Navy beans
Navy beans, also called Yankee beans, have a soft, dense texture and a mild flavor. They tend to hold their shape during cooking and are often used to make Boston baked beans. These beans were once a staple of the U.S. Navy. Soak for five or six hours before cooking.

Pink Beans
Pink beans have a hearty, meaty flavor, a refined texture, and are often used in chili, soups, stews, and similar dishes. Soak for four hours or longer before cooking.

Pinto beans
These beans become very soft when cooked and have an earthy flavor. They have the most fiber of all dried beans. Pinto beans are a staple in Latino cuisine and are the preferred beans used in making refried beans and bean dips. Soak for six hours before cooking.

Rattlesnake beans
This is a type of pinto bean, and the texture and taste is much the same. Actually, only the vines are different. Soak for six hours.

Red beans
These beans are very popular in the Southern U.S., especially as a part of Cajun and Creole dishes like red beans and rice. They’re well complimented with the use of spices. Soak for at least four hours.

Runner beans
These large beans pack a lot of flavor – more than many other types of dried beans. These beans are also not as starchy as most other varieties.There are three types of runner beans: scarlet, black, and white. In the U.S., the scarlet variety is often grown as an ornamental due to its red flowers. Soak for six hours.

White kidney beans
Also known as cannellini beans, these beans are similar in taste and texture to navy beans, but they have a slightly different shape. As the beans simmer, they readily absorb other flavors. They’re often used in white chili, minestrone, and other soups and stews. Soak for a minimum of four hours.

Buying and storing dried beans
You can find dried beans in grocery stores, at farmers’ markets, and online. Many varieties are available in small packages and in bulk bins.
Dried beans can keep for up to thirty years when stored properly. For pre-packaged beans, make sure the plastic bag contains no holes. Store beans at room temperature – not in the refrigerator.

If you buy and store dried beans in bulk, they can be separated into smaller quantities and stored in glass jars or plastic containers, with the lids tightly closed. For storing larger amounts, place them in large plastic tubs with tight-fitting lids. Add an oxygen-absorbing packet to the container and store in a cool, dry place.

To store cooked beans, place them in a container with a lid and cover them with some of the cooking liquid. Close tightly. The beans will keep for up to four days in the fridge, and they get more flavorful each time they’re re-heated. Of course, you can also use them cold in salads.

Cooked beans can also be frozen. Allow the beans to cool after cooking.

Place them in freezer bags or freezer boxes and cover with cooking liquid. Store in the freezer for up to six months.

Great bean recipes:


18,141 Posts
a gentleman had indicated to me that kidney beans must be soaked because they contain a chemical that will make you sick otherwise.

The toxic compound phytohaemagglutinin, a lectin, is present in many varieties of common bean but is especially concentrated in red kidney beans. Phytohaemagglutinin can be deactivated by cooking beans at 100 °C (212 °F) for ten minutes. However, for dry beans the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) also recommends an initial soak of at least 5 hours in water; the soaking water should be discarded.[2]
The ten minutes at 100 °C (212 °F) is required to degrade the toxin, and is much shorter than the hours required to fully cook the beans themselves. However, lower cooking temperatures may have the paradoxical effect of potentiating the toxic effect of haemagglutinin. Beans cooked at 80 °C (176 °F) are reported to be up five times as toxic as raw beans.[2] Outbreaks of poisoning have been associated with the use of slow cookers, the low cooking temperatures of which may be unable to degrade the toxin.
The primary symptoms of phytohaemagglutinin poisoning are nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. Onset is from 1 to 3 hours after consumption of improperly prepared beans, and symptoms typically resolve within a few hours.[2] Consumption of as few as four or five raw kidney beans may be sufficient to trigger symptoms.
Beans are high in purines, which are metabolized to uric acid. Uric acid is not itself considered a toxin, but it may promote the development or exacerbation of gout. For this reason, persons with gout are often advised to limit their consumption of beans.[3] Uric acid is also an important antioxidant in humans and, according to cohort studies, might be neuroprotective in cases of multiple sclerosis and Parkinson's disease.

38,922 Posts
Discussion Starter #57
a gentleman had indicated to me that kidney beans must be soaked because they contain a chemical that will make you sick otherwise.

The toxic compound phytohaemagglutinin, a lectin, is present in many varieties of common bean but is especially concentrated in red kidney beans. Phytohaemagglutinin can be deactivated by cooking beans at 100 °C (212 °F) for ten minutes. However, for dry beans the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) also recommends an initial soak of at least 5 hours in water; the soaking water should be discarded.[2]
The ten minutes at 100 °C (212 °F) is required to degrade the toxin, and is much shorter than the hours required to fully cook the beans themselves. However, lower cooking temperatures may have the paradoxical effect of potentiating the toxic effect of haemagglutinin. Beans cooked at 80 °C (176 °F) are reported to be up five times as toxic as raw beans.[2] Outbreaks of poisoning have been associated with the use of slow cookers, the low cooking temperatures of which may be unable to degrade the toxin.
The primary symptoms of phytohaemagglutinin poisoning are nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. Onset is from 1 to 3 hours after consumption of improperly prepared beans, and symptoms typically resolve within a few hours.[2] Consumption of as few as four or five raw kidney beans may be sufficient to trigger symptoms.
Beans are high in purines, which are metabolized to uric acid. Uric acid is not itself considered a toxin, but it may promote the development or exacerbation of gout. For this reason, persons with gout are often advised to limit their consumption of beans.[3] Uric acid is also an important antioxidant in humans and, according to cohort studies, might be neuroprotective in cases of multiple sclerosis and Parkinson's disease.
Good information to know ... I'll edit the previous post to include a statement to read what you have provided.


18,141 Posts
it was brought to my attention that prepping these beans might not be a good idea if you have limited water. I guess there are other types that are more prepper friendly. that you are not dumping gallons of water out after you soak them.

38,922 Posts
Discussion Starter #59
it was brought to my attention that prepping these beans might not be a good idea if you have limited water. I guess there are other types that are more prepper friendly. that you are not dumping gallons of water out after you soak them.
It is my understanding that many of them can be cooked in the water they are soaked in.

But if you find out that there are other varieties similar to the kidney bean, please let everyone know.

I think the list is good enough, and would hope others would look into proper preparation of any food item.

403 Posts
If you want to cook beans without soaking, and you don't want to spend hours and huge amounts of fuel, get a pressure cooker. That's how cultures that have beans as a regular part of the daily diet do it. In a pressure cooker, beans will be ready after 20-30 minutes of full pressure cooking, for a total cook time of 30-40 minutes.
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