Springfield XD Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just gun koted my xd! This is tough stuff! I had to blast off the first coat after I baked it because I applied it a little too thick. But, before I did that, I tried scratching a test area with a paper clip and it barely left a mark. I followed the directions to a "T", and it is as tough as they advertise. I used the matte black finish so I know I'll get some [email protected] for saying this, but it is really "black" and seems a little more "glossy" than I expected. The factory coating seemed kind of like a charcoal or dark grey. I know this is the same stuff they use on the MP5's (just under a different shelf name) and I am pretty sure it is the same as Armory Coat.

Durability I give it a "10+", Aesthetically "Jury's Still Out".

I am just wondering whether anybody else has used this and what you thought about it.

Thanks
J
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,428 Posts
I just ordered 8oz of moly resin in grey green. I think I'm going to try it our on my .38 spcl first. I'll post pics when I get done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
How did you prep the slide before finishing? I know Brownell's calls for washing the parts with acetone or similar. Did you fully (parts) strip the slide?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Well, I hope this isn't keeping too many in suspense, but I'm not going to be able to post pics until I get a new digital camera in a week or two.

It is very important to FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS. This stuff will not stick unless you sandblast it. I used a blast media called Black Beauty - Extra Fine (very similar to aluminum oxide 120 grit), and I removed every single hint of color on the slide, grip safety, mag release and disassembly lever. I have to say, that was kind of scary looking at it at first and thinking what have I done! I had to do this twice because I applied it too thick the first time and it would not operate properly. I used acetone and/or MEK to prep it after sand blasting. You MUST completely remove every internal component before blasting and applying the coat. I would not recommend coating the internal parts

I fired about 120 rounds through it yesterday and I had two failures to return to battery in the first 40 rds, but none after it was broken in. It is just like a new pistol after you apply the finish. I never pay attention to things like that on new guns until I have several rounds through them. I'll feel really good after about 250 rds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Good deal, I have used gun-kote on a few FAL and AK builds usually over parkerizing. really really bullet proof -no pun intended- finish. If I end up with the usual minor rust and stuff on the binual stock finish I mak beadblast and park the slide and if needed gunkote it flat balck. Deep black parkerizing looks good on a HG though. Most important part of prep is to make sure You get ALL oil off of any surface you intend to refinish any oil at all including fingerprint oil will play hell with a new finish cleanliness is the most important part of any refinish job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
347 Posts
Not to sound like a fool, but how does one beadblast an XD? Is it something sprayed at it via a compressor or something?

Matthew
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Sandblast NOT bead blast. According to KG Industries if you use any media with silica in it it will not allow the gun kote to adhere to the metal. I made several calls and ran all over town trying to find somebody to blast my gun who had the appropriate media. I felt like a DA when I found a sandblasting attachment for my air compressor at Wally World for $12. Whooda thunk it??? I bought a 100lb bag of Black Beauty extra fine for $7.50 out the door from a local masonry supplier. I would recommend doing this in an area (like your yard) where you don't mind getting this sand everywhere because it goes EVERYWHERE including all over you. Wear goggles!

Dittos on removing ALL of the oil (use Acetone or MEK). I soaked it for a few minutes, heated it up so the metal would expand and dipped it again in the MEK. It is very important to wear latex gloves, too. Be sure to rinse the gloves in the MEK or acetone if they are not powderless.

Man, I wish I had that camera so I could show off my work and get your opinions!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,428 Posts
Just Moly Resined my Charter Arms OffDuty my XD-40 is next. Grey/Green

<center>
Start:
</img>
Before:
</img>
After:
</img>
</center>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
Do you have to remove every little pin and screw when applying spray and bake finishes? I have some coming from Brownells, was thinking about trying it first on a single shot shotgun but not sure i can full dissassembly it, or would want to.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,428 Posts
They say recommend you take it apart for best result. They also say they you don't have to completely disassimble it if don't want too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,966 Posts
agalindo said:
Just Moly Resined my Charter Arms OffDuty my XD-40 is next. Grey/Green

<center>
Start:
</img>
Before:
</img>
After:
</img>
</center>
I was looking at the before pics thinking "wow, that looks really crappy!" Nice job!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,183 Posts
How much does this process cost to do, and could anybody do it without special equipement? I own a CAI CETME, and if anybdy knows this gun, they know that the CAI finish is crap! I was thinkign about having it refinished, but this sounds like it will leave me with something to be proud of if I do it myself (and it comes out right)! How much does it cost for meterials, and how much should I expect to pay to have it sandblasted?
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top