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OK...so my DPMS wrench came in (finally!), and I'm finally getting a chance to throw on my new free float handguard...and the damn barrel nut WON'T BUDGE! I mean, I'm really putting some balls into it, and it's not budging one bit.

So what can I do to get this thing off? I haven't tried hooking a breaker bar to it (as it's at my dad's), but the wrench is pretty long as it is. I'm really putting some weight into this thing but to no avail.

So is there some trick I'm missing?
 

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First thing penetrating oil (like PB Blaster or the like). Blast it silly. Let it soak; for quite a while (like a couple hours). Try again. Faling that, there is always heat, but be careful with heat so as not to ruin the strength of the metal.
 

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from some posts ive read, alot of those have loctite on them, so using a torch and heating up the nut will cause it too break the glue. . . not too sure cause ive never done it but its worth a shot
 

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Barrel Nut = Bee otch to remove...

My bushmaster was extremely tight, I had to blast it with wd40 and still ended up using a breaker bar to get it loose. My barrel nut also did not have any thread treatment, it should have some anti-sieze on the threads not loctite.
 

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my dad actually twisted a barrel getting the flash break off a friends ar. little did the friend, myself, or my dad know it was spot welded on, he ended up getting it off breaking the weld with pure strength, i tried to clean the barrel and the cleaning rod wouldn't go all the way through, so we took a close look and he had twisted the end of the barrel by using only a pair of channel locks.

needless to say my dad is a big guy, only 5'10" but has the strength of someone who is a LOT bigger.

moral: be careful putting too much elbow grease into something, real grease works better sometimes ;-)
 

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First thing penetrating oil (like PB Blaster or the like). Blast it silly. Let it soak; for quite a while (like a couple hours). Try again. Faling that, there is always heat, but be careful with heat so as not to ruin the strength of the metal.
NO

Do not apply heat to the barrel nut or any of the attached parts. i.e. A direct flame torch cigarette lighter etc. If you absolutely feel the need dont use anything hotter than a hair drier.


The torque spec should be around 80-120 Ft/lbs If its that tight toss the upper into a freezer for a bit, the aluminum of the upper will contract quicker than the steel of the barrel and should reduce the torque needed to spin it off. A little penetrating oil such as WD40 or PB blaster or even Marvels Miracle oil will help as well.
 

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if your going to work on AR's you need the right tools - The barrel wrenches are pretty short and you need some leverage to help you out - get the breaker bar and make it an easy task.

If you dont want to do that - use a dead blow hammer and hit the end of the handle in the CCW direction - this works like an impact wrench and it will break it lose. You will find this trick very handy when working on things.

oh yeah - righty tighty, lefty loosey:razz:
 

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Barrel Nut = Bee otch to remove...

My bushmaster was extremely tight, I had to blast it with wd40 and still ended up using a breaker bar to get it loose. My barrel nut also did not have any thread treatment, it should have some anti-sieze on the threads not loctite.
WD is "water displacement" not penetrating lubricant. Next time you get into a bind so to speak, try liquid wrench, PB Blaster or similar. Right tool for the job.
 

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Do you have the upper secured in something like the DPMS Panther Claw, (or other upper vice block) and held in a bench mounted vice or are you just trying to hold on for dear life ?
 

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WD is "water displacement" not penetrating lubricant. Next time you get into a bind so to speak, try liquid wrench, PB Blaster or similar. Right tool for the job.
How correct you are,....
If you want the best penetrating oil to be found,
Get a product named "Kroil"
Also works a s a kick AZZ carbon remover.
Place the bolt in a ziplock with an ounce of Kroil.
Let sit three hours,.......carbone is completely dissolved.
 

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I had the same trouble with one of my ARs. I just put the entire upper into the freezer for 45 minutes and it finally broke free. It still wasnt easy, but it worked without damaging the firearm.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Do you have the upper secured in something like the DPMS Panther Claw, (or other upper vice block) and held in a bench mounted vice or are you just trying to hold on for dear life ?
Both, hahaha

I don't have a vice block, however I do have a vice. I through it in there with some cardboard and an old oven mit so it wouldn't f- up the upper. It didn't move while I was turning the barrel nut.

I'm probably headed over to my dad's tonight, so I'll give the breaker bar a try. If that doesn't work I'll bring out the torch...and yes, I know how to heat it correctly.
 

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I HIGHLY recommend buying a action block, they are pretty inexpensive from midway. I tried doing the exact same thing with my receiver and a vice and it ended up warping the metal of the receiver. It would have been a lot cheaper to just buy the correct part than a whole new receiver. If you serch the troubleshooting area on AR15.com you will probably find my thread about it.
 

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I HIGHLY recommend buying a action block, they are pretty inexpensive from midway. I tried doing the exact same thing with my receiver and a vice and it ended up warping the metal of the receiver. It would have been a lot cheaper to just buy the correct part than a whole new receiver. If you serch the troubleshooting area on AR15.com you will probably find my thread about it.
+1
You don't want warp the lower or upper.
 

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I don't have a vice block, however I do have a vice. I through it in there with some cardboard and an old oven mit so it wouldn't f- up the upper.
You're just asking for trouble.
Buy the right tools for the job before you destroy the upper.
 

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You're just asking for trouble.
Buy the right tools for the job before you destroy the upper.

+1 learn from others mistakes.

If your going to work on AR's you might as well shell out the money so you can do it right. It would suck to mess up a $100 + part because you didnt buy a $30.00 tool.
 

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Not trying to be an A*# or anything but are you sure your turning it the right way? Righty-tighty lefty-loosey
 
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