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Discussion Starter #1
I’m so confused….

Hey Guys,

Before I go out and buy my first pistol an XD I would like to know the correct ways to clean/oil it so I will have a less chance of rust of my XD. I have done searches, and I am aware that there are many different products, stuff that can act like a cleaner and a oil or other stuff that is just used for cleaning and along with stuff just used for oiling.

What do you need to clean your pistol correctly? Slide cleaner, Bore cleaner, Gun Oil, Frame Cleaner?

Just really confused after doing my searches…
 

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if it's rust you're worried about there are a number of products--CLP, Eezox (sp?) and many, many others. Don't worry about the frame--it's polymer, won't rust and anything can be used to clean it. Keep a good bore cleaner (I use ye olde Hoppes #9) handy for barrel & inside of the slide, and always finish with a very light coating of gun oil (CLP is also a lubricant). Don't sweat the rust issue too much--it's not a catastrophe even if it does happen. The best thing you can do is go for a refinish. I just had Ajamesp51 do a Duracoat on my slide (matte black) and it's be-e-e-eautiful, and will never rust.
 

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So you need a seperate bore cleaner for the inside of slide and barrel? You say to finish it with CPL or RemOil. Do you mean finish on the inside where you applied bore cleaner or to the outside of the slide/barrel?
 

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Field strip the XD. Then dry wipe everything inside and out to remove soot.

Hoppes #9 is a solvent especially for removing any metal deposits inside the barrell and in the rifling grooves. Use it with appropriate size wire brush. Then follow with those little cloth wipes to remove remaining solvent. Finish inside of barrel with a CLP (Eezox or Breakfree or whatever) to leave thin lubricant-protectant.

For the remaining metal parts I just use Breakfree to clean and lubricate. I don't leave any noticeable excess when I'm finished, but it's all been CLP'ed.

I have had my XD's for two years -- no sign of rust.
 

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If you're worried about rust, just buy a bi-tone. The slide is stainless steel which avoids any concern and the cost of refinishing.
 

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Paladin said:
If you're worried about rust, just buy a bi-tone. The slide is stainless steel which avoids any concern and the cost of refinishing.
The stainless slides are known to rust too. Just give the slide and parts a good wipe down with CLP after handling and you'll be okay. Preventive maintanence is the key. Corrosion-X is pretty good too. I left a bare metal 1911 frame in my humid garage for several months with no signs of rust with a wipe down of C-X.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
021411 said:
Paladin said:
If you're worried about rust, just buy a bi-tone. The slide is stainless steel which avoids any concern and the cost of refinishing.
The stainless slides are known to rust too. Just give the slide and parts a good wipe down with CLP after handling and you'll be okay. Preventive maintanence is the key. Corrosion-X is pretty good too. I left a bare metal 1911 frame in my humid garage for several months with no signs of rust with a wipe down of C-X.
Is Corrosion-X a cleaner or an oil, or both?
 
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