Springfield XD Forum banner
201 - 220 of 223 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Its a pretty easy gun to clean and you gotta learn some time might as well do it now. Like firecontrol said their are many good youtube vids ect... I always like to get any factory grease or machining debries cleaned and check the origional condition of every part so I can monitor them for wear as time goes on.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
This is a great how to! One tip for touching up the finish - that works to make it look like new...I have some Alumahyde II from Brownell's in rattle can. It works great for refinishing (I have refinished 2 WASR AK's and a cheap .22 revolver in it and they all came out better then new.) BUT the good thing about AH compared to "Gunkote" or other baked finishes, you can use it for easy touch ups because you can apply it cold air dry. The longer it dries the harder it gets.

Anyway it's very simple to use AH to touch up. Degrease the chipped area. Then spray some matte black alumahyde into a bag or on a piece of foil. Then use a paint brush and brush it on the chip to cover it. Let dry over night if possible, before handling...The blemish just disappears.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Thanks so much for this advice, plus the instructions. I'm printing it off for future reference.
I dryfire my XDsc quite a bit, though I use snap caps, and I ordered some retainer pins from Midway in case it becomes necessary to replace. These pins are supposed to be stronger than the factory.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Lol, I recently dropped my xdm in the snow while shooting in a blizzard, (it was unloaded, fell out of my bag)
So I stripped it fully and destroyed this pin in the process, luckily i had an extra lanyard pin that I ordered by mistake and I sniped it to length with a crimpers, and used that.
Be careful wh3en you remove it, because I started to push the punch into the roll pin and it got stuck, I had to spray liquid wrench in there and use another punch from the other side, ended up breaking the second punch off in there, luckily I taped the slide and somehow managed to get it out without any scratches. I didn't counter sink mine, I'm afraid to get it stuck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I have not read all the replies here but as a gunsmith for 30+ years I can tell you that if you have broken this pin you are not going to be able to drift it out. If you have driven your punch down the center it has been made almost impossible to remove also. You must use a roll pin punch to keep the punch centered during the removal process. If you have a bent, flared or broken pin your only option is to drive the striker out using a brass bar than removing the broken pin pieces. If it is flared you can attempt to drill through the pin but you will need a special carbide drill bit for that. After drilling you will still need to remove the pin by drifting it just makes it weaker and easer to remove. Save yourself time and trouble by using the proper punch because once you damage the pin you have turned it into a rivet and made it a job to remove after that. I would replace with a spiral roll pin instead of a split and never worry about it again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Seems to be the right thread - while installing a PRP trigger I decided to inspect and clean the striker. Using the correct roll punch the pin came about 1/3 of the way out and the punch got stuck in the pin.
It won't go back into the bottom hole is so I assume the end of the pin is mushroomed.

Should I try to remove it using vise grips on the top of the pin?

I'd prefer not to try drilling it out except as a last resort and am looking for other options or advice.

And yes, I'm kicking myself in the butt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
I will be doing this tomorrow and while I went through the 21 pages of the thread I still dont feel like i read a definitive yes or no on .. do I really need to remove the back plate, springs and so on. After watching a couple of videos of guys knocking the pin out while they still have the backplate and all springs installed I am wondering if they can knock it out can I then just put in a new one without removing all that stuff.

It dosent look daunting to remove the backplate, springs, striker and so on but .. If I dont have to I would rather not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
517 Posts
It can be done without doing so... but without removing the back plate and striker spring first... the striker will move forward, and interfere with the hole. You then have to hold the striker back out of the way to insert the new pin. Much safer (and easier IMO)... to just remove the back plate and spring. Might as well remove the striker and dampening spring while you're at it... and clean the junk out of the striker channel too.

Here is a visual... might help you out and ease your mind a little. :)

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Thank you for the video. For some reason I thought that becasuse of the "guide" removing the back plate was going to be tricky but its the same exact way I have removed the firing pin on 1911's a dozen times.

So the pin came out without issue and I did find a small puddle of oil in the striker channel but since I only have about 100 rds fired .. no gunk .. but a follow up question

Are you guys giving a light coat of oil to the striker or sending it in dry?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
All done and that was a breeze. Except for the fact that I am incredibly anal about everything I do .. this is a 10 minute job even if your being real careful.

I took a sander to the tip of my punch to make sure it had a square face. I didnt want the punch to inadvertently start to mushroom into the old pin.

I drilled a hole about 2 times the width of the pin though a scrap of 1x2 and drifted out the pin with a jewelers hammer. A little masking tape on the gun where it would make contact with the wood but the wood is so soft it probably didnt need it.

New pin from Pistol gear has a slight taper on one end. You can get the pin lodged well enough in the hole just using your fingers and then I used the little jewelers hammer again to tap it in. Tapped it flush then used the punch to set it down a little and reassemble. Easy Peasy.

I dont dry fire without a snap cap in any of my guns and I had several XD's with the stock pin that had several hundred rounds through them without issue but .. for a couple of bucks and 10 minutes time .. I never have to worry about that pin being an issue. Well worth it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
348 Posts
Just happened on to this thread, so I hope it's not necro'd. Anyhoo, would filling the factory roll pin with JB Weld work better than Gorilla Glue? I would think that replacing it with the solid pin from Powder River would create the same result. Just wonderin'...

I certainly love shooting this pistol. 8)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Here is a visual... might help you out and ease your mind a little. :)

I dry fire A LOT. I wanted to take out the retainer pin from both my XD9s and see if there is any cause for concern.
I removed the backplate and spring as shown in the video, and I went to tapping (hammering) on the roll pins, from the bottom, with a 3/32" punch. I couldn't get either to budge, so I gave up a reassembled the guns. Each functions fine as reassembled.

Any tips on how to remove stubborn pins? Just hit harder?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
517 Posts
What I would do first... is remove the slide and look through the roll pin just to make sure it isn't bent or broken already. You should be able to see light through the center of the roll pin... and the hole through the roll pin should look fairly symmetrical.

If the pin is okay... it should come out if you hit it hard enough. I would use a roll pin punch if you have one... works a little better IMO. You could add a small drop of penetrating oil to the pin/hole and let it sit for a bit... but if you can't get the pin out... if could allow some oil to get into the striker channel... would have to be your call.

Good luck. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
I dry fire A LOT. I wanted to take out the retainer pin from both my XD9s and see if there is any cause for concern.
I removed the backplate and spring as shown in the video, and I went to tapping (hammering) on the roll pins, from the bottom, with a 3/32" punch. I couldn't get either to budge, so I gave up a reassembled the guns. Each functions fine as reassembled.

Any tips on how to remove stubborn pins? Just hit harder?
I would highly recommend that you replace all of yours with the upgraded ones sold through prp. Its one of the few things that fail on thease guns. Also USE a roll pin punch i did not on one of mine and it went badly the pin moved in part way then my punch went inside the pin expanding it in the open area inside the slide so it was half way out but could not be removed i had to carefully break and remove it in pieces. I did my others with a roll pin punch and all went smooth. Just my 2 cents

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Did one of mine today Took five minutes if that. Original pin looked a little beat but could have continued on for many more rounds. Unsure of how many rounds are through it.
 
201 - 220 of 223 Posts
Top