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Written by husker_t

INTRODUCTION

The XD striker retainer pin is the small roll pin you see in the hole in the top of your slide, just forward of your rear sight. This pin holds the striker in place, and is an item that will periodically break and need to be replaced. A new pin only costs a dollar or so, and you can replace it yourself by following these instructions. It probably makes sense to keep a few of these pins on hand.

REMOVAL OF OLD/BROKEN PIN

1. Disassemble slide, per these instructions:

http://www.xd-hs2000.com/disassembly/slidedisassembly.html

2. Important: Use a 3/32nd roll pin punch, and tap old retainer pin out from the BOTTOM of the slide UPWARD toward top of slide. The retainer pin hole is tapered on the bottom side, so don't tap it out toward the bottom.

REPLACEMENT OF NEW PIN

1. Get a new pin from a place that sells XD parts, such as one of these:

* XD-HS2000 Store
* Pistol Gear store

2. Place some masking tape on top of your slide around the retainer pin hole to protect the finish while you work.

3.
Squeeze or "crimp" one end of the retainer pin just enough to get it started. Some have had to crimp the pin until the edges were touching.

4. Drive the pin in from the top of slide, either using a regular hammer or mallet alone, or a cupped punch. If you just tap it in with the hammer alone, there's less risk of marring the slide.

5. Once retainer pin is nearly flush with slide, use a drift punch to seat the pin just below the surface of the slide.

6. Touch up the retainer pin's top with gun bluing.
 
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I just wasted like an hour watching that video. I already knew how to do it all but I couldn't help but watch all the different parts, hoping somehow I would find something new out about my gun.
 
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Thanks for this useful sticky; one caveat as my roll pin just came apart today at the range. I had already ordered several of these pins a year or more ago (I own 3 XDs) as I have heard about these coming apart. If the pin has literally broken (and it's not just a loose pin that habitually backs out) there may be pieces laying in and around the firing pin.

My roll pin came out in pieces and I rather optimistically figured I'd just punch a new one in. The remaining broken piece prevented the firing pin/sear from functioning, which in turn caused a jam during reassembly of the slide. I couldn't get the slide all the way forward, nor could I dismount the slide! I had to remove the rear striker indicator plate, striker indictor pin, then drift the roll pin out through the mag well using a long punch. Once the pin was out, the firing pin was free, and the slide could be removed from the frame. When the firing pin came out a 3/16 piece of broken roll pin came with it.

It's tricky getting the rear plate back on, it helps to put the slide in a (padded ) vice, and use a screw driver (slotted) to keep the striker pin indicator and bushing compressed so you can with the free hand insert the plate.

Stll lot's better than sending it to Spingfield!
 

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Seems this might be a design weakness? Could a better, perhaps solid replacement pin be designed? Begs the question how often the pin should be routinelly replaced? Also, what eventually happens to the striker?

Instead of pounding away using a punch and hammer, why not just use that bench vise to gently PRESS the pin in? As an unrelated example, the AR15 trigger guard roll pin SHOULD be pressed and not tapped. HB of CJ

pin upgrades? press it in? Post
 

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Seems this might be a design weakness? Could a better, perhaps solid replacement pin be designed? Begs the question how often the pin should be routinelly replaced? Also, what eventually happens to the striker?

Instead of pounding away using a punch and hammer, why not just use that bench vise to gently PRESS the pin in? As an unrelated example, the AR15 trigger guard roll pin SHOULD be pressed and not tapped. HB of CJ
Having disassembled the slide I can tell you that the striker is very solid and will be fine. The pin on the other hand is a 'roll pin' because when you tap it in the lower end is compressed by the channel, which secures it into place. And as a roll (vs solid) pin it is definitely a weak point in the design.

I think an enterprising aftermarketer might be able to make an asymmetrical solid pin, but really the design depends upon the roll pin securing itself in the channel by being compressed, so any solid pin would be less securely seated.

I am going to experiment with reinforcing the roll pin by removing it, filling it with epoxy, and then replacing it...but this also might reduce how secure it is by reducing its compressibility. Another option is jamming a toothpick inside of the pin and breaking this off...I did this accidentally experimenting with using the toothpick as a punch, and I realized this might add a great deal of reinforcement to the roll pin (and is also fairly compressible).

I had to pinch the heck out of a new roll pin to get it in there, and I think gently hammering it in works better than trying to press it in. However I haven't tried the latter so I wouldn't swear to it.
 

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i would think that the orientation of the split in the roll pin would make a difference as to how the pin would break..

i think you have to face the back of the roll pin to the striker to prevent a break.. the split in the roll pin must face to the front sight..

also, if there is a solid replacement, depending on the metal it's made of will determine if the pin, or the striker will be peened.. think of a bent, or damaged solid pin.. or, think of a damaged striker..
 

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I truly love shooting my XD, but BS like this makes me have doubts when using it as my carry gun. Makes me double take my standard Champion model 1911...

So this just fails.... and it's no big deal. Jeez, hope I don't actually need any of my XD's (he says with sarcasm).

Oh, hope for the best, prepare for the worst. Guess I better get that backup holster I was looking at....That's the excuse I'm gonna use anyway.....
 

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How often do you replace your pin ? Mine broke but the gun still shot fine. I would tap it down and it would work its way back up so I changed it and discovered it was broke. It had over 3000 rounds through it plus some dry firing,

Thanks,Keith
 

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i would think that the orientation of the split in the roll pin would make a difference as to how the pin would break..
Just replaced my retainer pin. It wasn't broken. I just decided to change it mostly to see what my original looked like and for preventive purposes. I faced the split of the pin towards the front sight as TG13 suggested. I used a roll pin starter punch to start the roll pin without the need to taper it first. I felt this would allow a tighter fit.

My original didn't even have a mark on it. Looked to be in fantastic condition all over. Still had the black surface coating from the factory with no scars other than what I did punching it out. I have fired probably 2000 rounds through it since I purchased it nearly three years ago. I don't get to shoot much as you can tell.

I just do not see how dry firing could possibly harm this pin. There isn't enough force on the striker from the striker spring to break a roll pin. It is my theory that recoil (slide slamming against the rear during actual live fire) that would cause the pin to break.

The replacement is really easy and quick.
 
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Just changed my pin, it was working up during shooting. The old pin looked "compressed" compared to the new one. Should a roll pin spring back open? This one didn't. Was carefull to point the split towards the front site. Here's hoping this one stays put.
 

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Written by husker_t

The retainer pin hole is tapered on the bottom side, so don't tap it out toward the bottom.


4. Drive the pin in from the top of slide, either using a regular hammer or mallet alone, or a cupped punch. If you just tap it in with the hammer alone, there's less risk of marring the slide.
Great write up!
I don't own this gun yet but, it would seem to me that if the retainer pin hole is tapered on the bottom, wouldn't you want to start tapping the replacement pin in from the bottom up?

Just askin'.
 
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