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Well, when I took the plunge into the 1911 world, I decided to upgrade my cleaning and lubing regimen. Prior to that, I'd used CLP for my XDm and GP-161. It worked, but I always felt that something was lacking. I decided to pick up some Hoppes No. 9 solvent, and Hoppes Elite Oil.
Now, my question is on the tandem use of them. For cleaning now, I give 'em a good wipe down, then a wipe down with No. 9, I allow it to sit for a bit, wipe that off, and follow up with the Elite Oil. It has worked beautifully so far, but I'm curious as to whether or not No. 9 has any ill effect if left on the gun. It bills itself as a solvent, not a lubricator. Could I experience any nastiness by missing a spot?
The Elite Oil is working spectacularly! Lubed my XDm and 1911 up about two weeks ago, and did a cursory inspection prior to my range trip today...looked just as shiny and lubed as the day I did it. It seemed also to really facilitate an easy wipedown of the grime of 100 rounds each today as well.
Why isn't this stuff mandatory!
 

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Not real fond of the Elite. Occasionally I'll go a month or two without shooting my carry gun and, on more than one occasion, the oil had evaporated. Might be the heat out here in AZ but it didn't work for me. Glad it's working for you.
 

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Not real fond of the Elite. Occasionally I'll go a month or two without shooting my carry gun and, on more than one occasion, the oil had evaporated. Might be the heat out here in AZ but it didn't work for me. Glad it's working for you.
Mobil 1 doesn't evaporate.
 

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The two will not play nice together. The solved is designed to attack the dirt and oil to clean the gun while the oil is there to lube. You need to make sure you're getting as much solvent as possible off before you lube.
 

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I've used Mobil 1 15/50- 20/50 V twin on everything from my Harley Davidson to every pistol/rifle I own with great results and that includes everything from a P3at to an M1 Garand. One bottle will last a lifetime. I keep a small bottle(Cracker Barrel pancake syrup bottle) of it in my gun range case and apply it sparingly with a small artist brush. If Mobil 1 is good enough for a Corvette/Vtwin Harley motor I'm sure it will be more than good enough for any gun.
 

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I use Royal purple maxfilm on the outside of my glock and AR. And a 1/2 and 1/2 mix of royal purple gun oil and maxfilm on the inside components and high wear areas.
 

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Hoppe's number 9 is a solvent that been around just about 'forever". It isn't a lubricant. But it should not hurt to leave it on for a while. Not uncommon to leave a dirty bore soaked with Hoppe's for a few days and brush it out followed by a second soak for more days. Sometimes Hoppe's will react to copper in the bore and come out green.

But when done run clean patches to remove the gunk and all the Hoppe's, follow by a good gun oil. Will Hoppe's harm the bore if left for a protracted period of time? I don't know. Never did it, but I would guess it will not. But it isn't a good preservative.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ah, I appreciate the info! I hadn't planned to leave the Hoppes on for an extended time, and now I won't. I'd love to see how long the Elite Oil will last before evaporating, but I seem to go to the range too much :D
 

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Well, when I took the plunge into the 1911 world, I decided to upgrade my cleaning and lubing regimen. Prior to that, I'd used CLP for my XDm and GP-161. It worked, but I always felt that something was lacking. I decided to pick up some Hoppes No. 9 solvent, and Hoppes Elite Oil.
Now, my question is on the tandem use of them. For cleaning now, I give 'em a good wipe down, then a wipe down with No. 9, I allow it to sit for a bit, wipe that off, and follow up with the Elite Oil. It has worked beautifully so far, but I'm curious as to whether or not No. 9 has any ill effect if left on the gun. It bills itself as a solvent, not a lubricator. Could I experience any nastiness by missing a spot?
The Elite Oil is working spectacularly! Lubed my XDm and 1911 up about two weeks ago, and did a cursory inspection prior to my range trip today...looked just as shiny and lubed as the day I did it. It seemed also to really facilitate an easy wipedown of the grime of 100 rounds each today as well.
Why isn't this stuff mandatory!
When cleaning my firearms specially my custom rifle with the Hoppes #9, I normally have it soaked for aleast 2hrs to let it Do its magic. The longest I have it sitting in the barrel was 12 hours. Directions in the back of the bottle actually recommends to let it soak for a while for heavy copper/leading. I'm satisfied with Hoppes #9, but Butch's bore shine and Montana Xtreme are stronger solvent. Sorry, i have no experience with the Elite Oil.
 

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"I'd love to see how long the Elite Oil will last before evaporating, but I seem to go to the range too much"

For long term you can't beat R.I.G. It's a heavy gun grease and will last for years when applied to blued surfaces and bores. But be sure to clean the RIG out of the bore before you put a round thriugh it. But if you're off to the range frequently, Elite or any good oil should be just fine
 

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FWIW,
The primary components of Hoppes #9 are,
Kerosene 15-40%
Ethyl Alcohol 15-40%
and,
Amyl Acetate 5-10% (pear oil)

I'm not using the stuff, anymore ... I can buy these basic components in larger quantities, for less.
I figure I've got a many year long supply, if I don't leave a container open.

And these components, plus the other 2, will not harm metal ... I've soaked a Tokarev barrel for a few weeks, after forgetting it was soaking :lol:

Research the components, and you'll probably conclude that a polymer pistol could be soaked for a day or two and without out affecting the material composition and integrity ... I did ... Disclaimer, YMMV.

Source - Hoppe's 9 - Material Safety Data Sheets

Additional,
Oleic acid (unspecified percentage) is a monounsaturated fatty acid found naturally in many plant and animal products,
And,
Ammonium hydroxide (1-5%) is a colorless liquid chemical solution that forms when ammonia dissolves in water ... Non-colored glass cleaner !!!

That's what Hoppes #9 is ... And I hope (pun intended) this helps someone with their decision about using the stuff.

It's a very mild solvent, and you could use plain old kerosene & denatured alcohol as effectively as the cocktail approach to gun cleaning ... That's what I now mix ;)

It cleans the same, but doesn't have that distinctive Hoppes smell :( ;) :)
 

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I've never tried soaking the metal, just applied it and wiped it away shortly after.

Would it be ok to just take the entire slide, barrel, and the metal components of the grip and dump them in a bucket with solvent and let them sit? Or are there parts in the slide that shouldn't be soaked?
 

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I've never tried soaking the metal, just applied it and wiped it away shortly after.

Would it be ok to just take the entire slide, barrel, and the metal components of the grip and dump them in a bucket with solvent and let them sit? Or are there parts in the slide that shouldn't be soaked?
Nothing in the XD will be harmed by a short ( a few hours) soak, and if you exclude the frame, you could soak the slide/barrel for weeks without causing it harm.

It is my understanding that,
Nothing in Hoppes #9 is caustic to metal.
 

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I use gun butter. The stuff is awesome. Highly recommended. I have used TONS of different gun oils. I emailed about every company on the planet asking for free samples. Most sent some right away. I gave them all a fair try, and put many rounds down range with each time. I carry daily, and in every weather condition, I've never had issues with gun butter.
 
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