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Discussion Starter #1
I just picked up a used 1911 and everything is great besides one thing. Now I'm new to the world of the 1911 so this could just be a flaw of the 1911 and not this firearm.

When I cock the hammer back fast (all the way down) and press hard. It seems to flick back up and goes to the half cocked position. I don't have to do it fast, I slowly cock the hammer back, and flick my thumb off with a little force and again it will go half cocked. Now this gun passes all the safty checks for 1911s with no issue. And when slowly cocking the hammer back, or just following through with your thumb the hammer stays cocked like it should.

Have fully broken down the weapon fully a few times to make sure nothing slipped and everything is okay.

Is this normal? Just don't cock the hammer too fast? Or is there something wrong?

I have not shot this weapon yet, going tomorrow.
 

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I just picked up a used 1911 and everything is great besides one thing. Now I'm new to the world of the 1911 so this could just be a flaw of the 1911 and not this firearm.

When I cock the hammer back fast (all the way down) and press hard. It seems to flick back up and goes to the half cocked position. I don't have to do it fast, I slowly cock the hammer back, and flick my thumb off with a little force and again it will go half cocked. Now this gun passes all the safty checks for 1911s with no issue. And when slowly cocking the hammer back, or just following through with your thumb the hammer stays cocked like it should.

Have fully broken down the weapon fully a few times to make sure nothing slipped and everything is okay.

#1. Why the hell are you thumb cocking a single action auto? It is ment to be cocked by the slide when you chamber a round and the safety is then engaged, please dont tell me you are one of those folks that chambers a round and lowers the hammer to half cock.

Is this normal? Just don't cock the hammer too fast? Or is there something wrong? #2. Yeah you arent going by the manual of arms for the 1911 that's the problem

I have not shot this weapon yet, going tomorrow.
#3.Please do not practice lowering the hammer on a live round, this is a recipie for disaster. Almost all of the ND's I have seen with the 1911 revolve around this assinine practice.
 

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I never have to manually cock my 1911s.
I load a round into the chamber, put the saftey on, drop the mag, top it off, insert it, and I'm ready to go.

I see no need to ever manually cock your 1911 unless you have a bad primer and want to do a second strike.

Perhaps you play with your guns too much...:roll:
 

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Perhaps you play with your guns too much...:roll:[/QUOTE] You'll go blind doing that. LOL
 

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When the slide cycles, the disconnector moves up into the groove cut into the slide. This allows the hammer to remain in the cocked position while the trigger is still being held back. The disconnector does not move while thumb cocking.
 

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There are several possible causes. One is the engagement surfaces of the sear and hammer may be damaged, especially the sear when the hammer falls to half cock like you describe.

Another problem may be the spring tension on the sear is too light. It would take a careful examination by someone who knows the 1911 well to do an accurate diagnosis.

You may end up replacing the sear, hammer, and the spring.

CX
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the posts guys here is a update from the range.
I took her out today and it fired 4 mags like normal, no issue.

But every 5 - 6 rounds sometimes more sometimes less you would fire a round, and the slide would move fine and eject, and load another shell however the hammer would be decocked. sometimes when you went to cock the hammer it didnt lock back, and would slam right onto the firing pin as if you pulled the trigger.

Not sure what the issue is, and to tell you the truth I am well versed in weapons and I'm sure I can handle any replacements I just need to know what I should be looking. What I am thinking is for sure I am going to replace the sear, disconnector and leaf sear spring and maybe the hammer itself.

Any other advice?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I also should point out that at no time did the gun go full auto. The hammer was decocked after a round was fired, but not once did it fire without pulling the trigger. (Unless you went to cock the hammer back, and it didn't lock back and just slapped forward after you took your finger off the hammer.)
 

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Ok now it's showing a symptom I can relate to, as stated the problem is either the sear engagement surfaces on the hammer or the sear spring. My recomendation would be to find a cylinder and slide drop in trigger/hammer group with a hammer shape that you like and go for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The sear edge that grabs a hold of the notches on the hammer looks abit worn down. The hammer looks okay from what I can tell, but I would rather be safe then sorry and planned to get a non gi hammer anyways.

Another question, on the sear spring is it common that the lip that holds it onto the frame isnt quite the same size as the slit cut into the grip? It seems to use only about 3/4 of the slit giving it the ability to move side to side. If that makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If I take it to a gunsmith I will never learn. I'm all about self repairs to better my understanding. These guns really arn't that complex the only thing that isn't black and white is angels of the sear spring but there are tools to help me with that. I can build AR15s in my sleep and handel any issue that comes up with glocks, Xds and alot of other type handguns. The 1911 is still abit new to me but in time I will master it. And honestly anyone that carries a 1911 or any gun for that matter should know the gun inside and out and be able to fix anything that happens to it.
 

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The sear edge that grabs a hold of the notches on the hammer looks abit worn down. The hammer looks okay from what I can tell, but I would rather be safe then sorry and planned to get a non gi hammer anyways.

Another question, on the sear spring is it common that the lip that holds it onto the frame isnt quite the same size as the slit cut into the grip? It seems to use only about 3/4 of the slit giving it the ability to move side to side. If that makes sense.

I would advise to replace both the hammer and sear together.
 

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Sounds like Bubba tried to do a trigger job. Who made the gun to begin with, I had hammer follow issues with a Taurus for the same reason, dont know if it was that way from the factory or if the previous owner did it. I replaced the whole trigger group with Cylinder and slide and STI parts and everything came out beautifully. With the trigger kits plan on having to re fit the safety though so if it is something you would like to replace anyway use the stock safety to practice on before trying to install the new one.
 

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you have a gunhacked misstep of an experiment.

you should replace at a minimum sear spring, sear, and hammer.

IMO fusion firing control kit for 99 bucks smith installed for 65 (find a 1911 smith) and you'll have a better trigger than any NIB gun comes with.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
you have a gunhacked misstep of an experiment.

you should replace at a minimum sear spring, sear, and hammer.

IMO fusion firing control kit for 99 bucks smith installed for 65 (find a 1911 smith) and you'll have a better trigger than any NIB gun comes with.
Have a good site for this kit? I just may do this.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks alot guys I will for sure get that kit, still don't know if I'm going to take it to a smith or just do it myself. Does the sear spring in that kit need to be adjusted or is it just drop in ready?
 
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