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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a RIA Match in 45acp with a full length guide rod. In shooting the gun I have noticed a difference in performance between using grease and oil.

When I do elect to use a grease (have tried many and all end in same result) I have numerous fail to ejects. I imagine this is because the grease is slowing the slide down. The spent case is only a couple of millimeters from extraction when this occurs.

Now when I use oil (of any kind) the gun operates flawlessly. Here's the issue, I want to use grease because it stays put and does not fun all over God's creation. So how can I remedy this issue? I have thought of a couple of resolutions. A) I could maybe switch to a lighter recoil spring (15 lbs) or B) I could snip out a coil or two from my stock spring at a time until the problem is resolved.

I would like your opinions on this issue. Thanks for the help.

P.S. Extractor is in good shape and is removed often to be cleaned.
 

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I use a heavier oil on slide to frame, and clp break free on everything else. If your at an outdoor range where its cool and use like a heavy bearing grease, it could very well mess up the timing with your ejection.

My dad who was a mechanic at the railroad gave me some non detergent oil about the thickness of motor oil, and I wouldnt go any thicker on the slide.

I use that oil he gave me from the railroad mechanic shop on all my guns major moving parts, with a little CLP
 

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Though I am not having the same issue, Wilson Combat sells a grease-oil combo that may work for you. From reading the reviews it seems like this may work for you. Check it out on Midway USA's site.
 

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...Now when I use oil (of any kind) the gun operates flawlessly. Here's the issue, I want to use grease because it stays put and does not fun all over God's creation. So how can I remedy this issue? ...
I had the same problem with my range guns, and I prefer grease for the same reasons. I switched to FP10 and that helped. Now I just have to get used to the oil spots on my tee shirts when I use FP10 on my carry guns. LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had the same problem with my range guns, and I prefer grease for the same reasons. I switched to FP10 and that helped. Now I just have to get used to the oil spots on my tee shirts when I use FP10 on my carry guns. LOL.
That is exactly what I am trying to avoid. I though a lighter spring may compensate for the grease slowing the slide down.
 

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If you put in a lighter spring it may increase the mechanical wear on the moving parts. This could also increase the likelihood of a FTRB condition that many 1911 shooters experience with too light of a recoil spring. You may have to experiment with different springs to get it right.
 

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One problem with using grease is it will slow the slide down in both directions. On the eject cycle that could well lead to FTEs. A weaker spring MIGHT help with that but I suspect it will make FTRBs much more likely.

When I got my 1911 I tried a number of lube options from CLP to homebrews of sythetic motor oil and moly grease. The gun did not like grease at all.

In the end I settled on Weapon Shield. I had longish email conversation with the fellow who runs the company. My understanding is he's the lubrication engineer behind the original FP10 formula. His advice was never use grease on 1911s. Never with a capital N. Following his advice I've never had a malfunction in thousands of rounds. I just don't wear nice shirts to the range.:wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks for all the info
 
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