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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
gotta make a decision. the club i ordered a LWRC M6A2 got some in...they just arent the ones thought to be coming in.the difference is $200 and the diference in rifles is a clubfoot VLTOR instead of magpul CTR.also a 14.5 barrel w/surefire flash suppresssor/quick attach for a can in the future, instead of 16.1 with a regular flash.

i've got until midday fri or it goes on the shelf!they figure feb before they get the one i had ordered, but i paid in advance so i get the next one in as long as i want it.

so?what would you do?:???:
 

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Well you will either have to SBR it or have a extended flash hider pinned and welded to make it over 16" barrel. The Surefire is probably long enought to be pinned/welded. The Vltor Clubfoot stock can be removed and sold for the price of a CTR. It depends on if you want to wait or have it now and then have the extra work done to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yeah the flash hider is pinned and welded to get it up over that 16".

from what i can tell the differences are just the Surefire quick attach flash hider and the VLTOR clubfoot stock. the stock is fine as iwas thinking of upgrading anyhow.whats the difference in function between a clubfoot and regular collapsable buttstock?

the flash hider is worth it i think as it allows for use of a good can eventually.

i think it wil work out but thought i would get some more opinions

doesnt come with BUIS, troy are what im looking at, with some tritium posts.that or the GG&G spring actuated.

optic will be the ACOG TA-31 ECOS w/dr red dot on top.then add some type of surefire light and that should round her out.
 

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I wouldn't personally like the Surefire flashider being permanently welded.

That would in effect limit you to ONLY being able to use one of their suppressors in the future because they are propietary.

For that matter, any standard threaded barrel has the capability to accept a suppressor for the future. Plus their suppressors aren't all that great anyway. Especially for the price they want for them.

Example:
Surefire FA556AR Suppressor for .223 / 5.56 with Quick Detach Flash Hider

You asked for opinions, there's mine.
 

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If you're okay with the Surefire being welded than go for it. Just realize you're going to pay $1,400-1,600 for a Surefire suppressor. Rifles are hard to get a hold of so that should effect your decission.
 

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permanently attached is really a Misnomer they can be removed and replaced later by a good machinist, take the rifle now and when your ready for a suppressor have the FH removed and a new one installed and Pinned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
from the research i've done, still need to call LWRC but...apperently they have changed some things for 2009.the VLTOR is taking over for the CTR-fine by me as they are both great stocks but i like the VLTOR better in appearance and the ability to carry spare batt. and bolt. another newbie will be Troy BUIS.like i said im good with that.

as for the surefire attachment...thats the only thing hanging me up at this point. judt like John said it sticks me with the "only surefire cans" in the future and from what i've seen and heard Advanced Armament, among others have much better suppressors.the only plus i see is the fact that there is said to be no re-zeroing from off to on and vice versa.

just dont want to pass thisa one up. its there, its got my name on it and...its there!so other than the surefire flash hider being a bit of a neg the rest is fine.

since i have not dealt with this before-got another AR a bushy, but no plans to add a can.it also has a welded flash hider. how, if at all, can you get them off and replaced with something diff.?if so i dont mind getting it setup as a SBR and get the stamp and all.does the welded factor make it so i must get another barrel or could a good gunsmith do it?

thanks for all the help and feedback both pos and neg.!!
 

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To answer your question, the cheapest way to remove the welded hider, the barrel would have to be cut and rethreaded/re-crowned, or if you're very lucky, lathed down to the threading without damage to it itself, but chopping the barrel and redoing the end of it, is the cheapest route to take. Or simply buying a new barrel and going that route would probably be the easiest for your point of view if you do the work yourself.

Chrome lining also makes that much harder to cut without damaging the barrel or lining too while I'm thinking about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks guys for all the help. i went ahead and bought the one described.the only negative(sorta) is the quick attach/detach suppressor flash hider.

once i get some range time on it ill report back.:mrgreen::twisted:

thanks again for everyones help!thats why i post here, with the exceprion of a few people this board is one of the best ive found online.people are respectful, the banter between Etta and others shows the acceptance of other ideas and the ability to act as adults and agree to disagree-all the while passionatly disagreeing but still not "wishing harm" on anyone(in fact trucker fu**er :lol:AKA trucker, is the only one i have ever seen wish harm on anyone here or thier families :xits ok though he's prob like 10 anyhow...)

so just simply put- thank you

ouija
 
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