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RoughNTough said:
I'm pumped I've got my Don's SS guide rod and #22 spring just ordered! I can't wait to shoot with it! How long is the return time from Pistol Gear?
We ship same day, however the 22# springs are out of stock and are due to arrive on Friday. If they do, your order will ship on Saturday. Sorry for the delay.

Scott
 

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I ordered a guide rod and springs from them on a sunday, they were shipped monday, and I recieved them friday. pretty good turn around in my opinion.
 

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Remember, a 22lb spring will increase muzzle dip as the slide returns to battery,causing slower split times. It will also greatly increase your chances of reliability problems. For more detailed info go to cgr(custom glock racing), "spring wars". Acarry gun (especially polymer frame) should always be sprung on the loose side. Matt @cgr is truly a wealth of information.No,you don't have to feel like Benedict Arnold for going to CGR for some worthwhile info! :wink:
 

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Sorry, one more thing! You definately need to check for full travel after you install the 22lb. This is easy with glocks, you can watch what the springs doing as the slide travels by looking between the slide and dustcover. There still has to be some space between those coils when the slide locks back, so the slide can impact its rear stop. If you have to much spring,the impact will occur at THE BASE of the guiderod......not good. Plus it can greatly affect the angle of ejection........WHEW! Over and out :wink: p.s. this is why flat springs are preferred......it allows more space(per coil) than a standard.I use ISMI, they are the best!
 

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Full travel will not be a problem with the 22# spring, It gets tight with the 24# spring but there should always be clearance. I am torn on the issue of where or what should stop the slide. The stock spring arrangement lets the lower hood on the slide impact on the locking block, which is supported in the frame by the two pins and the takedown lever. If the spring is too long, the slide is stopped by the guiderod head against the takedown lever, which is supported by the same locking block/pins. I am not sure that it is a significant difference for wear issues. As far as the hood, the stock spring places the walls of the hood in compression when the slide impacts/stops, a too long spring places the hood walls in tension. But...since my dimensions make the springs work in the same force manner as the stock unit that becomes a dancing-on-the -head-of-a-pin matter.

Some users have had issues with the heavy spring and the ported model: too much reduction in slide speed. Others have no problem. This may be related to ammo choice and grip strength, as would the comments by masterofg3 on muzzle dip.

The only caution I have on lighter springs is make sure the spring holds the slide in battery. It has to do so against the striker spring. As long as it does that, use what feels/performs best for your style.
 

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Easiest way to check your recoil spring(if you think it's to weak or worn). With an un-loaded gun,point it straight up and squeeze the trigger until the striker is released and hold the trigger all the way to the rear.With your opposing hand, pull the slide just out of battery and release it. If it snaps back into battery, your good to go! :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh No!!!! A TLP member that NEEDS TO IM ME.....PatrickJames82 is my new AIM s/n :D



Thanks for the help on springs guys! I feel confident with the 22, but also sent Old School a PM about an 18.
 
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