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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey there all,

I bought an xdm40c 3 months ago, it has shot flawless for me so far. I've shot about 1100 rounds through it. 1050 or so WWB and 50 WWB JHP. I went to the range last friday and shot about 100 WWB and 50 WWB JHP. After my range trip I did a thorough inspection and cleaning and I noticed a small hairline fracture where 7mm up from the extractor on the slide.

Can you guys tell me what you think???
 

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Wow...looks like it's time to be sending that baby back to SA for a replacement....free of course. I have never seen one "crack' like that...curious to see what some think may be the cause!

Sorry for your loss man! :cry:
 

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Definitely looks like a crack to me...but is kind of hard to see
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah that's the best picture I can get out of it using macro on my camera. I can run my finger over it and it definetly feels like a crack. I've never had any issues with the gun jamming up or anything. Haven't dropped it either.
 

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Yeah that's the best picture I can get out of it using macro on my camera. I can run my finger over it and it definetly feels like a crack. I've never had any issues with the gun jamming up or anything. Haven't dropped it either.
Just curious, did you notice any difference in recoil or muzzle flash the last time you were out at the range?
 

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Any response from SA yet?

If it's a crack, how does the outside look?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just curious, did you notice any difference in recoil or muzzle flash the last time you were out at the range?
I had not noticed anything at the range, and I usually go by myself. So no one else to spot for me.

I plan on emailing SA with pictures soon.
 

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I had not noticed anything at the range, and I usually go by myself. So no one else to spot for me.

I plan on emailing SA with pictures soon.
Keep us posted on what they have to say. Am kind of curious about the route of repair they take...
 

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I just went and tore my gun down to take a look at it (xdm 3.8c .40). It is smooth in that area. After re-assembling it and watching closely as I pulled the slide back and then slowly letting it return I did notice that the barrel contacts the slide in that same location. the barrel seems to float to the left a little bit when the slide is retracted. Mine appears to float right back to center when it contacts this area without binding at all. I would think it could be probable that it could cause a crack on that sharp radius if the barrel did not float back to center when it contacts the slide there. I would work your slide very slowly and watch and feel to see if there is any binding there. I suppose that if it does bind it could be caused by the barrel or slide being slightly out of tolerance somewhere or debris of some sort in the gun that does not let the barrel float freely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I just went and tore my gun down to take a look at it (xdm 3.8c .40). It is smooth in that area. After re-assembling it and watching closely as I pulled the slide back and then slowly letting it return I did notice that the barrel contacts the slide in that same location. the barrel seems to float to the left a little bit when the slide is retracted. Mine appears to float right back to center when it contacts this area without binding at all. I would think it could be probable that it could cause a crack on that sharp radius if the barrel did not float back to center when it contacts the slide there. I would work your slide very slowly and watch and feel to see if there is any binding there. I suppose that if it does bind it could be caused by the barrel or slide being slightly out of tolerance somewhere or debris of some sort in the gun that does not let the barrel float freely.
After closer inspection it seems like the both sides of the slide where the barrel comes back have small impact marks on them, like shiney metal. I see that alot when interference motors timing belts break and the valves hit the pistons. I'll be emailing them tonight and see what they have to say about it. A little worried but not too worried as this may be the very small percentile that might have been bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
SA emailed me about this and said the following.

Thank you for contacting Springfield regarding your pistol. I believe what your seeing is only machine marks. If you are concerned I would recommend comparing it to another XDm. Maybe go to a dealer to look at one and compare. Please contact me back if you have any further questions. Thank you and have a great day!

Best regards,



Seb I think you may be right and I might need to magnaflux it. I don't think very many people have had this issue with their xd before.
 

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SA emailed me about this and said the following.

Thank you for contacting Springfield regarding your pistol. I believe what your seeing is only machine marks. If you are concerned I would recommend comparing it to another XDm. Maybe go to a dealer to look at one and compare. Please contact me back if you have any further questions. Thank you and have a great day!

Best regards,



Seb I think you may be right and I might need to magnaflux it. I don't think very many people have had this issue with their xd before.
Yeah I would just for my own reassurance if I were you. Any engine shop that does engine repair/rebuilding should be able to mag it and tell you within a minute whether it is truly cracked or just a surface issue. If it is cracked I would make sure to take a picture of it and tell SA that they need to replace it. Good luck and post up a pic after magging if cracked.
-S
 

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SA emailed me about this and said the following.

Thank you for contacting Springfield regarding your pistol. I believe what your seeing is only machine marks. If you are concerned I would recommend comparing it to another XDm. Maybe go to a dealer to look at one and compare. Please contact me back if you have any further questions. Thank you and have a great day!

Best regards,



Seb I think you may be right and I might need to magnaflux it. I don't think very many people have had this issue with their xd before.
Dye penetrant ... Find a local shop and ask them to check it for you.
A few dollars, versus buying a kit and doing it yourself, and it will be even more if you try to find someone who can do a magnaflux check.

Example:
 

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Unless you find a shop that just wants to do some mag particle testing for curiosity, it would probably be about as cheap to buy a new barrel.
If a fracture is that obvious to show at the surface (not an internal flaw) it should be easily determined visually with a 10-15x jeweler's loupe and a flashlight.
Also might want to visit the dealer where purchased, or any with a real gunsmith, for an opinion. A quick inspection should be free.
Not saying that it cannot have a fracture, but in a non-ported slide it would be unlikely. Hard to see exactly where your problem is located from the attached pics but this is not a high stress area (at least not in the direction of what might be the marks you are talking about) Even firing into a squib should not cause a crack at that location. But do get some direct inspection confirmation on this.
 

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Dye penetrant ... Find a local shop and ask them to check it for you.
A few dollars, versus buying a kit and doing it yourself, and it will be even more if you try to find someone who can do a magnaflux check.

Example:
‪Zyglo.mov‬‏ - YouTube
It should take under 15 seconds with a competent Magnafluxer...and the amount of powder used is negligible for such a small area. Heck I would do it for free for him if he were in my neck of the woods.

Why do you think it would be cheaper to do the dye versus the mag? In my experience...Magnafluxing is the way to go with a magnetic material, which of course this is. It is quicker and accurate.
 

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Having been asked this question more than a few times, here is what we have found in EVERY case so far. The stainless steel slide slide is softer than the barrel, so, when it hits the slide, over time it will make a mark with a small movement of metal on the softer stainless steel. I've yet to see it cause any failures. A couple carefully placed file stroke generally clean it up.
 

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It should take under 15 seconds with a competent Magnafluxer...and the amount of powder used is negligible for such a small area. Heck I would do it for free for him if he were in my neck of the woods.

Why do you think it would be cheaper to do the dye versus the mag? In my experience...Magnafluxing is the way to go with a magnetic material, which of course this is. It is quicker and accurate.
Because your experience isn't providing anything about cost, other than your comment that you would do it for free ;)

Ever done a cost breakdown of one process versus the other, if you are paying someone else to perform the tests ?
 

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Because your experience isn't providing anything about cost, other than your comment that you would do it for free ;)

Ever done a cost breakdown of one process versus the other, if you are paying someone else to perform the tests ?
My professional assessment (I do this for a living afterall) is that the job is so small, would take so little time and materials, that the cost would be little to nothing. The dye penetrant that you posted would take more time, is messier, and is also not magnetic specific. The more time involved, the higher the cost.

So I would reiterate that if I were the OP, I would check locally. I would check via phone and let them know that you had a tiny area on a slide about an inch squared that you wanted to verify for either a crack or just a surface irregularity. I can't readily speak to what other shops would charge.

I would also heed Loves2Shoot, as he seems to have dealt with this issue before. Having said that, I would probably still check into it just for my own personal reassurance and peace of mind.

This is what I would do...YMMV ;)
 
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