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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If your interested in the specific issues see the following.


As for the cause, when loading the pistol in preparation for leaving for work I was "riding" the slide as the first round was chambered and felt a distinct drag. Yeah, I know, you should slingshot the slide and I am trying to break myself of closing the slide by hand. However, in this case it was actually beneficial because that drag led me to look closely at the cartridge. What I saw was that a gouge had been cut into the ejection rim. After I got home from work I pulled the slide and took a very close look at the fixed ejector post in the frame. What I found was that the end was slightly "peened" and there was a sharp burr on the underside that had caught the cartridge as it was fed into the chamber. My theory is that burr was acting like a hook and catching the ejection rim as the cartridge was fed into the barrel causing some of the rounds to get flipped. Most likely the reason that it only happened with my number one magazine was because it was presenting the cartridge just a tiny bit higher than my number two magazine.

WARNING, if you’re not a qualified gunsmith, or a machinist with tool and die experience, DO NOT attempt repairing this yourself, just send the frame into S.A. and ask them to correct the problem. Quite simply, if you remove too much material from the front of the fixed ejector you'll end up with ejection problems. Now for the fix. Step one is to remove the burr. Step two is to add a slight radius between the front surface and all sides of the fixed ejector. I would recommend a radius between 0.010 and 0.015 inch. That radius will reduce the pressure at the edge of the ejector and redistribute the strike more toward the center, which should greatly reduce the end peening over and forming a burr. I used a diamond hand file and then polished the radius with a 2000 grit emery wheel in my Dremel. Also, note that the face of the fixed ejector is on a slight angle and this angle should NOT be changed. I suspect that it's there to cause the cartridge to be thrown upwards slightly as it is ejected. After finishing with the ejector I then flushed the frame out under running water and blew it out with my air compressor to get rid of any grit and metal fines. Then I cycled the slide with dry caps as fast as I could and checked the ejection throw. After 100 cycles there was not one failure and I now have a few blisters.

Now for the one negative of doing this repair. That is that I now have some exposed bare metal surfaces that will rust if I don't keep a film of oil on them. For now I plan on keeping a close eye on it. Once I am sure that my radiusing was enough to stop the peening issue, I'll get a gun blueing kit and blue those surfaces with a Q Tip.

BTW, I suspect that this issue may also apply to the standard XD series. So I would urge that anyone who is experiencing bullet high Stove Pipes to run their finger along the underside of the fixed ejector. If you feel a burr, either have a gunsmith correct it, send it into S.A. for correction, or do it yourself ONLY IF YOUR QUALIFIED. It's an easy repair to make but it's also a very easy repair to get completely wrong. So anyone thinking about doing this your self remember ONE thing, IT'S A LOT EASIER TO REMOVE MATERIAL THAT IT IS TO PUT IT BACK.

PS; I will be emailing Springfield Armory with the complete text of this post so that they will be aware of this potential cause for SP issues.
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