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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I attempted to drop in some lead sinkers to my guide rod with a steel punch and hammer. The punch was too wide and is now stuck. Any ideas on getting it out without damaging the guide rod?
 

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Heat the guide rod...then wiggle the punch out
 

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AwPhuch is right....don't turn it cherry red, just heat the rod evenly, try not to heat the punch, the punch needs to stay cold....hopefully the lead will melt out the way too

Good luck, oh and pics or it didn't happen...lol
 

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AwPhuch is right....don't turn it cherry red, just heat the rod evenly, try not to heat the punch, the punch needs to stay cold....hopefully the lead will melt out the way too

Good luck, oh and pics or it didn't happen...lol
You don't need to get it so hot it melts lead...a few hundred degrees (like sitting on the dash in your car on a hot sunny day in Houston) should do the trick.
 

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Every time I heat the guide rod the punch gets very hot too. Its really stuck in there!
Heat it..then dip JUST the punch in some ice water to rapidly cool

Might have to get a pair of pliers to really pull/twist on it
 

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I can only add ... Heat from the end opposite the punch.
 

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Fortunately you can buy replacement guide rods relatively inexpensively if you ended up damaging it. Make sure when your pounding stuff in there that you aren't bulging the tube.
 

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Thanks for the suggestions guys. Its just not working. I'm going to get a dremel and see if that solves the problem.
More heat ... All you need is more heat.

Use the dremel only as a last resort.
 

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NO. Small heat souce is too slow. The punch will heat up along with the guiderod. You need just the guiderod to heat and expand before the punch heats and expands also.
A propane torch for a few seconds may heat just the guiderod and leave the punch cool. then work fast to pull out the punch before heat transfer expands the punch.
 

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NO. Small heat souce is too slow. The punch will heat up along with the guiderod. You need just the guiderod to heat and expand before the punch heats and expands also.
A propane torch for a few seconds may heat just the guiderod and leave the punch cool. then work fast to pull out the punch before heat transfer expands the punch.
Yep. Thumper is 100% correct. You need to get the guiderod hot fast and get the punch out before the heat transfers to the punch. If you get it out use a torch and fill it with melted lead. Pounding sinkers into it is definitely not the answer. I drilled a 3/8 hole into a 2x4 and set my guiderod in it. Then used a piece of 1" angle iron as a trough to run melted sinkers into it. Make sure to heat the guiderod enough to melt the lead a couple times while filling to remove air pockets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Dremel took care of it. I left the steel chunk in the guide rod and it weighs 1.5oz now. I don't know what the stock weight is but it feels heavier. I do have a DGR on the way so this was a fun experiment. Thanks for the input guys. This forum is the best!
 

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Thank you! For your block of instruction on what NOT to do.
 

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If anybody asks, tell them it was intentional. After much thought and testing, you found the ideal weight for your guiderod to be between a full lead filled and a solid steel. So you did a partial lead fill with an interference fit steel rod to seal the rod.
Just smooth the end of the rod to be flush with the flange cap of the guide rod. Don't want any sharp pointy lump banging into the barrel lug.

Before you fully assemble the pistol, take just the guide rod and check that it easily slides through the guide hole at the muzzle end of the slide to ensure the hollow guide was not bulged anywhere. Only need the check the portion of the guide rod that would normally push through the guide hole of the slide. A little bulge back at the flange end is OK as long as the spring does not bind. Note that the guide rod is supposed to have a small ridge ring just ahead of the flange. This is to capture the recoil spring from falling off during disassembly/assembly. Just push the end coil over the ridge.
 
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