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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm thinking about reducing the "creep" in my XDm's trigger by taking a little material off the top of the sear. I did the same in my 1911 by reducing the engagement surface of the hammer and sear.

As far as I can tell, the engagement surface on my XDm is about 40 thousandths of an inch. I want to take it down to 25 thousandths of an inch. As far as I can tell, if I don't change the angle of the sear surface that engages the striker, it should remain positive. It shouldn't have any effect on the trigger pull weight or any of the safeties as far as I can tell.

Am I missing anything? Is there anything I should consider before doing this? Has anyone done this before?
 

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I thought of doing the same thing, or taking some off the striker –

BUT!

This is not the same as a 1911, where the two engaging elements, sear and hammer, are fixed in their relationship to each other, being located on pins in the frame. On the XD the two engaging elements, sear and striker, are located on two separate parts of the pistol, frame and slide. The fit (and thus possible movement) of the slide in relation to the frame is an additional and very significant factor in the relationship of the engaging elements, and that relationship can change with wear and possibly other factors.

As an observation, I did notice that my XD had less sear/striker engagement than my XDm does – and a nicer trigger – and it was bone stock from SAI.

So, proceed at your own risk, which could be considerable.

CX
 

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I thought of doing the same thing, or taking some off the striker –

BUT!

This is not the same as a 1911, where the two engaging elements, sear and hammer, are fixed in their relationship to each other, being located on pins in the frame. On the XD the two engaging elements, sear and striker, are located on two separate parts of the pistol, frame and slide. The fit (and thus possible movement) of the slide in relation to the frame is an additional and very significant factor in the relationship of the engaging elements, and that relationship can change with wear and possibly other factors.

As an observation, I did notice that my XD had less sear/striker engagement than my XDm does – and a nicer trigger – and it was bone stock from SAI.

So, proceed at your own risk, which could be considerable.

CX
CharlieXray is dead on correct!! I also tried to "fix" the trigger in much the same fashion. I slightly "rounded" the edge of the sear to get less trigger. It worked great for a while, however, as the gun got more "broke in", the parts wore against each other and the tolerances between frame and slide became "looser", the sear got to the point where it wouldn't engage the striker properly. It ended up with light primer strikes. In my opinion, polish the sear but don't remove any material from it, let it "wear" on it's own.
 

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Also, you suggested mod will not reduce the long pretravel or overtravel of the trigger which are normally the major drawback of this design.
 

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CharlieXray is dead on correct!! I also tried to "fix" the trigger in much the same fashion. I slightly "rounded" the edge of the sear to get less trigger. It worked great for a while, however, as the gun got more "broke in", the parts wore against each other and the tolerances between frame and slide became "looser", the sear got to the point where it wouldn't engage the striker properly. It ended up with light primer strikes. In my opinion, polish the sear but don't remove any material from it, let it "wear" on it's own.
LOL
My XD9 has about a 1/16th of an inch of side-play in the slide to frame fit ... Would I change it ?
It's always been loose !!
Combat ready :wink:

And,
After +12,000 flawless rounds, 3 bad ammo related failures, and nothing else ... HELL NO :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I looked at Powder River's Ulitimate Match Trigger kit and I'm definitely getting it when I can comfortably afford it.

As far as "decreeping" goes, I know it has no effect on pretravel or overtravel. It only reduces the distance the sear has to move to release the striker. This is what you feel when your trigger actually engages the sear to start moving it downward.

I definitely do not intend to remove any material from the striker itself although I do intend to polish the striker's engagement surface.

I also do not intend to "round over" the edge of the sear or change the angle of the sear's engagement surface. I want to keep a positive engagement angle there.

I can see how having the striker in the slide and the sear in the frame can make for a less precise fit and how changes in temperature might affect the tolerances. That's something to think about.

The Powder River Ultimate Match Trigger kit includes a new sear so if I mess this up, I'll have a new one to put in. I'm 90% sure I'm gonna try it and see what happens. I'll keep everyone posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK, here we go. I polished all the internals that have anything to do with the trigger (even the trigger and sear pins). I reduced the sear engagement surface by taking off a little material off the top of the sear. The trigger now releases a little sooner which is sweet. All the polishing made the trigger super smooth. I measured the trigger pull at 6 lbs 3 oz (average of 10 pulls using a Lyman Electronic Trigger Pull Guage) before the polishing. The trigger pull is now 5 lbs 1 oz and as smooth as a baby's behind.

I didn't take as much material off the top of the sear as I originally planned based on Charlie Xray's concerns but the creep is still significantly less. After loading a snap cap into the chamber (yes, I loaded it from the magazine), I pulled the trigger for the first time and I swear I got a little chub...LOL! What a difference the polishing and "decreeping" made!

The sear engagement angle is the same as before (still positive) so the striker won't slip off. All the safeties work like a champ. I tested them all even though I didn't change anything except to polish the plunger striker safety surface where it meets the trigger bar.

I couldn't be happier, especially since I didn't F*ck it up by getting impatient. I went slow and easy. No files were used; just sand paper and polishing stones on the sear, and Heavy Metal Polish applied with a buffing wheel on a Dremel tool to polish everything up. I love Heavy Metal Polish by the way. It makes it sooooo easy to make those internals gleam!
 

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Absolutely! Sharp and positive. Nice crisp release. No rounding of the edges which can create a negative engagement angle.


Correct, sharp and positive.

Rounding the engagement surface as carstensxd45 did is not safe because you create a negative engagement area.
 
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