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What exactly do you clean and lube other than the barrel and slide? Ive been told that you dont want the firing pin and pretty much everything in the back of the slide oiled. The guy said you want it bone dry..is this true? If you do clean the metal parts in the frame how do you make sure their oiled good...what im saying is after you use cleaner on the metal parts and it runs down into tight spaces and you go to oil it how can you be sure its oiled properly? Sorry for all the questions...im a newb. Thanks!
 

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On the slide oil the rails, the underside of the slide where the barrel hood moves, the circle where the barrel comes out. Then I use an aerosol can of either rem oil or Eezox and mist the whole under side of the slide, not to much just enough not to have any rusting. Take a lint free rag and lightly wipe it out. Then I mist the outside of the whole slide, again wiping down. I would not loose sleep for over oiling just since I would recomend after every 1000 rounds to detail strip for a good cleaning out, you will be amazed what you find. I have the deatil disassembly posted at
http://www.xd-hs2000.com/disassembly/disassembly.html

You will get more gunk from using a cleaner and a toothbrush then just lightly oiling. Using something like hoppes will allow the residue to enter the cracks of the striker safety and under the extractor.
 

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Yea, ajamesp51's disassembly info is flawless. I pulled mine apart and had it completely down to all internal components removed. I won't do this with my Ruger P95 because I can't find good info on full disassembly. Was rather easy to follow. Having a gunsmith punch set and a pair of needlenose pliers makes it easy as pie. Did a good detail cleaning and got junk out of everywhere (I used a cleaning patch and rod to clean the firing pin's chamber) and it came out pretty black most of the time. Personally I follow almost the exact same regimen, plus put a dab of gunbutter on the contact point between the sear and the firing pin, and use gunbutter on the rails. Does it make a difference? Hasn't 'dried up' on me since my first application of gunbutter and a few hundred rounds, so does pretty good in my opinion.

Matthew
 

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when I detail clean my slide assembly, i totally disassemble it, and use bore cleaner on all the parts, inclidung the frame, especially up where the firing pin mechanism sits. After I scrub out the parts with a q-tip. Then I poor a light solvent (ussually rubbing alchole) into the slide to rinse out the bore cleaner. After that, Itake a clean q-tip, make sure its not too... hairy... spray it lightly with oil and lightly coat the insides of the firing pin recess in the frame. Then i use my fingers to lightly oil EVERY piece before I reassemble it. As for frame. I have no cluse how to dissasemble it to clean it. So I just get what I can with oil.
 

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Between really good cleanings of the moving mechanisms of guns, I use Powder Blaster. It is an aeresol product that you just spray all over and let it run out. I do it outside because of the mess. That seems to take awaty about 90-95% of the gunk in the trigger mechanisms of pistols.

As for lube. I use a little bit of vacuum grease on citical slding areas and break free everywhere else. Break Free has been proven to work.

-Dana
 

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Ah ha DanaT does exactly what I said alot of shooters do to clean their pistols. Which just happpens to be the way that can melt the lite pipes of the truglo TFO`s. There is nothing wrong with doing it this way, I also do the same, but that break free will melt some TFO`s awfull:) Dana you dont know how many e-mails I got saying oh no I would never do that. But to tell the truth it gets the job done and is easy.
 

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I uses gun scrubber in an areosol and soak all the internals and then take the air compressor and blow it real good to get the rest of the stuff out. Then I spray my trigger mechanism and internals with a DRY silicone, it never gets gunky in there and stays slick, plus silicone displaces moisture.
safety dislosure (wear eye protection while using compressed air)
 

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dmcblaster
How about this dont make an effort to put oil in the firing pin, but if a little does get in, its not the end of the world.
 

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dmcblaster,

I think you'll come to find that most shooters put a lot of faith in CLP. It is kind of like Remoil except it seems to leave a tiny bit more oil residue on the surface, whereas, in my experience, remoil evaporates quicker leaving only a teflon coating (CLP uses teflon too). If I were you I'd become a little more familiar with the gun before you COMPLETELY diassemble it because the roll pin can be kind of meticulous (not to mention finding an m3x16 roll pin locally in a timely manner) to reinstall.

It won't hurt if you oil the rear of the slide. In fact, every part of every gun can usually benefit from a light coat of CLP. Just don't over do it! CLP doesn't evaporate as quickly as Remoil and it could gum up your firing pin, not likely, but it could.

I'm new to the board too, but I've been following this forum for quite a while.

J
 

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Is the standard XD finish traditional (or a modern equivalent) of "bluing"? Or is it something else? Parkerized?

I use regular bore cleaner (powder solvent) to wipe down the slide exterior as well as cleaning out the gunk from inside. I'm guessing that's OK and SOP? If not, what's the proper way to clean and it and using what? After the comments about melting tru-glo sights, suddenly I feel like everything I knew about gun cleaning is wrong.

What's Armor Kote, by the way?
 

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Is it okay to lightly oil the rear polymer slide rails? Do they need it? Does CLP or its equivalent weaken the polymer? Sorry if this is a newb question.
 

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the disassembly page has a page for safety/parts/tools list.

there is nothing on that page... i'm assuming it was eaten in the hack. does anyone have that info?
 

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ok ok, start the chewing out process....now! I was taught years ago that the heavy duty gun cleaning sprays that you can buy are basically just bracleen type product from an auto supply store and give it a good healthy dose of bracleen, start scrubbing and will remove any and all dirt, oil, other depositsand the bracleen evaporates super quick. But remember this leaves the gun complete void of all oil and protection so you have to oil the gun properly and a good extremely light oiling all over metal pieces doesnt hurt. Anyone else ever heard of this or done this ?
 

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SoCal XD'er
I use regular bore cleaner (powder solvent) to wipe down the slide exterior as well as cleaning out the gunk from inside. I'm guessing that's OK and SOP? If not, what's the proper way to clean and it and using what?
I would use the bore cleaner only for the bore and places where powder residue accumulates. Since the solvents job is to loosen particles for easy removal, I wouldn't get too much of in on the outside surfaces.

What I do:
1. Drop magazine:
2. Check chamber to make sure pistol is unloaded.
3. Dissasemble into major components.
4. Dry brush all areas where gunk accumulates and wipe clean with a dry cloth.
5. Put some solvent on a good gun brush and wet scrub all dirty areas.
6. Spray gun scrubber to clear out the areas just brushed. (protect your eyes :shock: )
7. Wipe down with another clean cloth.
8. Put some good quality oil on a Q-tip and oil areas that will benefit from lube. (Slide surfaces and areas where you can see that 2 surfaces are rubbing against each other, also lightly around the outside of the barrel.
9. Reassemble and work the slide a few times to spread the lube evenly.
10. Put a small amount of oil on a silicone cloth and wipe down the outer surfaces.

Usually takes me about 1/2 hour to do, but it's a good feeling when you are done. Kinda like washing your car all nice and clean :mrgreen:
 

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Some words of caution. If you use the Gun Scrubber sprays or Brake Cleaner, please wear some safety goggles and NITRILE rubber gloves. That stuff is very nasty organic solvent. Prolonged use and or sniffing the fumes will cause health dammage. Avoid any and all contact with skin if possible. This stuff in NASTY. Also if you use it make sure you oil/CLP/rust preventative any parts you used it on as it strips it totaly clean of any preservative. This is a great way to get rust going. Additionaly prolonged contact with polymer will probably weaken/soften it. Not a chemist, just a biologist, but had enough organic chemistry to know the stuff is bad news to carbon based polymers.
 

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As ajames said in an earlier post, a little oil on the firing pin is not going to make your xd (or any other gun) useless. I think the idea is that oil attracts gunk which could gum things up around the firing pin. If you overoil around the firing pin and don't clean it again for a thousand rounds I can see this happening, but I don't think a very light film of oil would hurt anything. I'm fairly new to xds' but I do have a pretty good background in 1911's and if there's a specific reason to keep an xd firing pin dry then I'll stand corrected.
 

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not only did using the powder blast spray cleaner remove every bit of nastiness from the gun (scared me sh!tless in the process because of its efficiency) it was so bone dry that i thought i needed a glass of water. :-D

that stuff does wonders, and in hurry. it changed the color of the metal to a lighter shade of black...almost gray. but once i put some oil on it, and whiped the WHOLE thing down, it came back to life. THOROUGHLY lubricated the innards...to include the firing pin area. seeing the slide rails get THAT dry made me worry about the WHOLE gun. you know?

ajames' advice makes the most sense i've heard on the subject. good luck with your future cleanings. :)
 
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